Auto to TKO swap

j69302

Active Member
Jan 31, 2006
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I have a 69 coupe, 302, C4 and manual brakes which were upgrade to front disks. I want to swap the C4 with a TKO since later on I plan on building a 347 or 408.

I have some questions about the brake / clutch pedal assymblies.

First off, I have read that a non power and powere brake pedal is different... But what is different about them?

Second, I saw a side by side pic of a manual trans brake pedal and a auto trans brake pedal. The picture noted how the pivot points were about a inch difference between the two. Could it be the they had a power-manual trans brake next to a non-power automatic brake pedal?

So with those questions out of the way, would it be better to cut trim my auto-brake pedal and by a clutch pedal or would it be better to by a brake and clutch pedal assymbly from ebay?

I plane to use a hyd. throwout bearing. This seems pretty simple and clean and allows for plenty of room for headers.




I currently have a 302 and was planning on doing the transmission swap now. Is this something that can be done on jackstands with the engine in the car? How high off the ground do I need to get the car to get the C4 out and the TKO in? I understand the bolt patterns are the same for 289-351 windsor blocks, so later on would it be pretty much a bolt on to swap out my 302 with a 408?


/edit
I know the 351 will have a different balance factor there for ill need to change the flywheel.. What about the clutches? I seen some advertised with balance factors and others not.

How do the balance of the flywheels work? I know I need one that has the same balance factor as the engine. But my question is that the balance factor is at a certain location..like a heavy spot in a tire/wheel. If I get a flywheel that has the same balance factor, how do I know what position to clock it on the engine to ensure that everything is balanced right? Do clutches need to be balance also?
 
I think you don't need to modify the tunnel on '69s for a TKO, but you might do some searching as I know the earlier models need mods (like my '67).

Are you going to use a cable clutch or linkage?

Once you get your conversion crossmember mock everything up and check the angle. You'll need to do this anyways with the axle pinion to make sure you don't get vibration through the u-joints. My crossmember needed a 3/4" spacer and the axle needed shims to get the angles right. This spacer was also needed to make sure the clutch Z-bar wasn't bound up.

Flywheels will come in either 28 or 50oz balance depending upon early or late-model. You'll need to check with your clutch MFR on fitment.
 
I can personally verify that a TKO will fit with no modification to the tunnel. I just installed one along with a 408 W in my '70 last weekend. As for some of the other questions I would recommend talking to Bruce Couture @ Modern Driveline, he can answer all of your questions. This is where Purchased my C4 to TKO 600 swap kit, and Bruce was very helpful.
 
I have not measured my pinion angle yet, but I am pretty sure that I'm good. Here is a run down of what my set up is: 408 W (stroker kit from Fordstrokers and top end from Jay Allen @ Camshaft Innovations), Ron Morrison Performance 1/2" drop adjustable motor mounts, TKO 600 tranny, & a cable actuated clutch. I am not a pioneer, by any means, with this combo. It is a proven performer. Concerning your flywheel question. Your flywheel ballance will have to match your crankshaft ballance. So if you have a 28 oz. crank you will have to use a 28 oz. flywheel. And don't worry about your flywheel weight being in the wrong spot, because it will only go on one way. You can get stroker kits with 28 or 50 oz. ballance, but I would recomend going with 28 oz. as they are easier to ballance. I'm sorry but I can't help with your brake/clutch peddal questions, but I'm sure whoever you buy your transmission from will be able to address those questions easy enough. I used Moderndriveline and can easily recommend them, I have heard nothing but good things about Darkhorse Performance aswell. You are doing the right thing by asking lots of questions before buying anything. For engine info you can not do better than sbf tech (for the address remove the space between the f & t, then add .com) forums. Good luck with your project!
 
I contacted Bruce at Modern Driveline and he answered my questions about what all I need.

mustangbrad, Are you using the stock TKO shifter or a aftermarket one?

Does anybody have any idea how high off the ground I would need to get the transmission out and the new one in with jackstand supporting the car?

What is the best way to measure the bellhousing alignment? Will a magnetic base dial indicator work or is there a special fixture to do this?

Once the transmission is removed, will the engine want to lean forward or aft since the trans cross member is not supporting the weight any more?
 
Just ordered my TKO kit and some new headers from FPA and some ron morris motor mounts. I decided it would probably be easier to pull the engine/trans out to hopeully make it easier.. Im going to try and repaint my engine compartment and see if I can touch up the engine at the same time.....one thing always leads to another :D


Any tips for stripping the paint on he engine compartment? I have a die grinder and some pads.. Works great but way too slow.
 
You are definately on the right track.

As for striping the engine bay. I found some paint striping wheels (they were like an aggresive scotch brite pad) for my 4" angle grinder and that worked like a charm everywhere I could get it to fit. After that I switched to a die grinder. When it comes time to upgrade your motor I highly recommend Fordstrokers and Camshaft Innovations. Woody (owner of Fordstrokers) and Jay Allen (owner of Camshaft Innovations) will be able to build any thing you can dream of and their customer service is outstanding. I was able to talk to Woody twice on a Sunday.