Automotive Welder Suggestions please

[90mustangGT]

I am thinking of buying a welder. On a professional level may be welding on exaust tubes occasionally but that is about it. I would like somthing that I could weld in a roll cage, weld in reinforcments, tq boxes, subframes, ect. I would also like to stay with a standard 115-120V power source because 240V outlets arn't everywhere so if I wanted to take it somewhere I can. I really like the wire feed type with a gas option. Any suggestions would be apreciated.

 

[Shirley]

not stealin' the thread, but I am wondering the exact same thing. Help this man out! amnit:

 

[RYC CUKR]

I would go with a mig welder. Much more versatile and works well when welding thinner sheet metal

Something like this is probably what you are looking for.

http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pr...T&iMainCat=1412&iSubCat=1413&iProductID=11189

Nice thing with this is that you use flux core wire but if you ever want to convert to gas for shielding they make a conversion kit.

Lincoln also makes quality welder.

If the price is to high I am sure that you can pick up a smaller mig welder at Home Depot or you could check with some of the welding supply houses around you. I have seen mig welders at HD but haven't ever really looked at the price.

 

[Michael Yount]

Well, here's the deal -- if you're gonna be doing anything near commercial with it (exhaust systems, roll cages) you'll really need the capacity of a 220V model. The 110 units are fine -- but you'll be limited. The other issue is that most of your better roll cages are chromoly steel -- and that really needs to be TIG welded, not MIG welded.

As usual, you need to decide what you want. I bought a 110V Lincoln 135 unit that I've been pleased with. Fine for light fabrication of the type you described on the car. You can use flux-core wire without gas, or you can use solid core wire with inert gas - your option. But if you're gonna do a lot of exhaust work and roll cages -- I think you need something else. Don't forget to budget for 1) some kind of cart to store it on/move it with, and 2) gas bottle and first fill. Those two items will add about $150 to the price of things --- and you're gonna want them/need them.

 

[ForceFed70]

You'll want the 220V. And if you plan on doing any larger jobs, you'll need it.

 

[srothfuss]

Get a miller brand welder...

Buy a TIG welder, with some practice they are not very hard to use at all!

 

[Lyncher]

Idk specifics but from work I know that both Miller and Lincoln make quality welders

 

[old_blue]

I think a 110v will work fine for exhaust, sbf, and torque box reinforcements. They make some powerful 110v welders. I think for the occasional welder he will be doing that a 220v is too much. If a cage is in the plans then definitely a tig is in order. Other than that I think a 110v is perfect.

 

[Kerpal]

Weird, I was just about to make the same thread! I just started learning to MIG weld Thursday, it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

I've been using Lincoln and Miller machines between 90-135 watts in the class I'm taking... all work well, but I'm just doing sheetmetal work at the moment.

Which raises the question, what kind of wattage is needed for things like installing SFC's, fabbing up control arms, chassis braces and the like?

Would an entry level TIG setup that could handle the above jobs be signifigantly more expensive than a MIG one?

 

[TrophyHead]

I have a Miller. I forget that product number. But anyways its a little bigger than a lunchbox. Really nice...guys at work run them welding 10" schedule 40 pipe It can be hooked up to a 120V source or 230V source. It can MIG and Stick weld. The MIG is awesome but the stick doesnt seem to penetrate very well unless you running 230V. Nice piece but a little pricey about 1200 bucks.

 

[macx]

I got the 220v Lincoln, very happy with it.

Even built the steel framework for a large
free span carport with it using gas shielded
flux core, 71T-11 which is a good out of
position wire.

I've figured out a way to use that mig
machine to run a tig rig - just need
the argon gas (or nitrogen) and the tig
rig itself. Just won't have high frequency
so you can't do aluminum with it.

My home computer is down right now, but
within a few days should have it up and
running - have it sketched out how to set
it up and could email it.

[email protected] if anyone's interested

 

[90mustangGT]

Thanks for the replies.

From the people I ahve talked to and what I am getting here on stangnet it a general rule that the bigger I go, the better it will work. I figure it's like driving in nials, yeah you can do it with a 6oz but it will be easier and faster with a 12oz.

I like the idea of the 110-120V units because that way I can use them anywhere and not have to worry about weather the place has a 220V outlet. The only 220V connection in the house is the Dryer and it's not very to the garage.

I was at Home Depot and Sears and saw the Lincoln units. Saw the Hobarts at Northern. I liked the 125A and the 3200A which are almost the same except the 3200A had a gas kit with it for a little more. About $400-$500.

A lot to think about. I don't want to spend a lot of money I won't get the use out of, but then again, I don't want to save a little and end up with something that doesn't do the job, that would be a bigger waste of money.

 

[carbed87]

ok, heres what i think would best suit you.

first of all, if you do decide to go with a mig, than do spring the extra cash for the smaw rig.
because if you weld anyting over a 2g position, the flux-core tends to get a lil less penatration, not only that, but with flux core, you get a lot more molten bs falling down on you when you weld, i.e. its a lot dirtier.

and yeas, i would spring for the optional voltage packs. i did my subframes with a lincoln 110, and i didn't get too good of penatration, but then again, i could have just had the settings crappy.

as for tig, it sounds like you would just use it for a roll cage and other exotic metal welding.
i would keep this in mind as a secondary option, because of the fact that tig takes quite a bit more skill, and is also more costly.

so i woud just keep that in youre mind for now, im sure i left out a few things but you get the idea right.

glad to help. (if i even did :'p)

 

[TrophyHead]

Another thing I forgot too mention is Miller sells refurbished untis. There practaically brand new. Rebuilt, paint, ect. You can get them pretty cheap. Something to check into defentialy.

If you got the garage space go bigger. Trialblazer's are nice

 

[macx]

That refurbished Miller sounds like good bang
for the buck.

As a CWI (American Welding Society Certified
Welding Inspector), my advice is do NOT get
an off-brand - it may be good, or it may not
be worth the gas it takes to get it home.

Stick with a name brand.

Get a little book titled "Welder's Handbook"
and practice what it says - good instructional
book.

You do get better penetration with flux core
as hard wire (non flux core) is designed for
decreased penetration for welding thin gauge
materials. You CAN do relatively heavier
gauge with it, but you really need to know
what you're doing - you can make a beautiful
looking weld that isn't hardly fused at all.

A wire conforming to E71T-1 is a good self-
shielded (no gas needed) flux core.

For indoor (out of the wind) use, E71T-11
is a gas shielded flux core so you also need
the gas hookup - use 75% CO2 & 25% Argon
mix for less spatter & smoother weld with
a little better penetration. There's only one
brand tht sells that wire in 5 lb spools, so you
might have to shop around for it, but it makes
strong, well penetrated, smooth welds, and is
a very good "out of position" (vertical and overhead)
wire.

You can also do very nice work with stainless
steel using SS flux core wire.

One thing about flux core, you need to take
the reel off the machine when you're not using
it and seal it in a baggy to keep moisture from
soaking into the flux - moisture will give you
something called hydrogen cracking coming
from inside the weld so you can't see the
hydrogen bubbles (from the moisture)
but your weld can fail on account of it.

 

[z2o_what]

i have a lincoln welder, that i bought from lowes for $300 (not sure on model no.) and i've welded up to about 3/8" but... if you turn it on its highest voltage setting it tends to burn through the power cord.

but i would get a set of tortches and weld with coat-hangers because its easier (for me) to get the welds looking good and i tend to have less leaks when welding exhaust.

 

[Michael Yount]

Just Google Lincoln Welder, Miller Welder, Hobart welder -- and you'll come up with more hits for prices, availability, model numbers, accessories, etc. than you can imagine. In terms of quality of the units - I'd say Miller is best, followed by Lincoln and then Hobart -- and you'll find pricing will reflect that.

 

[rd]

I have the 85 amp Eastwood, made by Century, and have used it flux core only. I have done a lot of boat trailer repair and installed subframes, and some boxing and brackets.

If you can, I would recommend getting a mig with gas, as it will be a bit easier than the straight flux core, and better with smaller wire on sheetmetal.

 

[fox-gt]

not stealin' the thread, but I am wondering the exact same thing. Help this man out! amnit:

Same here, I am looking to buy one for a hobby. I was looking at this one.

Lincoln Electric Handy MIG Welder
Sears item #00920580000 Mfr. model #20580

Plugs into 115V, 20 amp outlet. 4 voltage settings and continuous wire feed speed. Welds mild steel, 24 ga. - 1/8 in. thick. Safety feature keeps wire electrically "cold" until trigger is pressed. Learn more $289.99

or this one, and buy the MIG converstion kit later.

Lincoln Electric Welder, Flux-Cored Wire Feed, Weld Pak 100
Sears item #00920174000 Mfr. model #K587-1

Ready to use for welding light gauge. Mild steel using self-shielding (no gas required) flux-cored wire. Welds up to 1/4 in. Learn more $349.99

 

[Noobz347]

no response,

What? Nobody discovered and answered to satisfaction between the hours of 3:AM and 7:AM on a weekday?

BULLOCKS!



Pretty sure I spelled bullocks correctly? Meh...

Let's move this 17-year-old thread over the Talk section where it belongs.