Autozone IAC.

how about this?
Buy Ford Racing Parts!
i know it cost more,but it's a new throttle body w/the IAC.

i think i'll try cleaning my old one and resetting my idle per RJ's instructions tomorrow.
i welcome more first hand opinions on the non-Motorcraft IAC's,before i decide.

thank's,guy's

cleaned the hell out of the throttle body and IAC,aswell as the MAF today.

used carb cleaner on the IAC,than sprayed it out with brake cleaner.

from the throttle body,i removed the IAC adjustment screw.you should have seen how gummed up it was.soaked it in carb cleaner,gave it a little scrub with a scotch brite pad,than cleaned it off with brake cleaner.

on the throttle body,i stuffed it full of shop rags,than in the IAC air passages,i scrubbed it out with a small brush and sprayed brake cleaner in there to clean it out.let it dry.

disassembled the MAF housing,removed the sensor and sprayed it down with brake cleaner.

i let everything dry than reassembled with a new throttle body gasket and IAC gasket(only Napa(#735-3509,$6.36) carried the gasket by itself,Autozone,Kragen,and Pepboys only sold the gasket with a new IAC).
also added two hose clamps to the valve cover vent hose that leads to the intake tube.felt very loose,did not want to suck in any unmetered air.

reset idle per RJ'sniceinstructions.(fourth post down.)

http://forums.stangnet.com/759024-idle-problem-please-help.html#post7590041

idle's good(around 700 RPM),no surging drove around town for about a half hour with the heater on.no stalling/dying at stop lights,or check engine light.

i hope this solved my issue.

so this morning i head to 7-11 for some coffee and the paper.
drove fine the way there.
when leaving,put the car in reverse to pull out.
started moving,then the check engine light came on and the car died.
i restarted it and drove to my brothers garage where i have all my tools,on the way there,no check engine light and the car drove fine.

pulled codes,here's what came up.

157=MAF sensor circuit below minimum voltage.

158=MAF sensor circuit above maximum voltage.

next,i tested the MAF

using my meter.
tested between terminal A (red) and B (black)on MAF connector with car running at idle,at operating temp.
i got 14.53 volts.book say's there should be at least 10.5 volts,so this looks good.

tested between terminal C (brown) and D (light blue)on MAF connector with car running at idle,at operating temp.
i got .74 volts.book say's there should be approximately 0.34-1.96 volts,so this looks good aswell.

yesterday,after cleaning the TB,and IAC and MAF,i warmed the car up and ran a KOEO test and was good.
than i ran a KOER test along with a cylinder balance test,both came out fine.

any suggestion's?

i checked the wires and connectors.they look good.
this problem just showed up.
right now,i have the batt disconnected to clear the PCM.
i'll go for a drive in a little bit to see how it goes.

but,i will double check the wires/connectors.
thanks for the suggestion.

yep.all stock under hood.

1.pretty sure
2.o-ring?never noticed an o-ring.i've removed the MAF sensor from the housing more than a few times for cleaning and never noticed it.where should it be located?

i'll take a look now.

you mean here?there's nothing there.
View attachment 284887