B-303 or trick flow stage 2?

Britt

Founding Member
May 2, 2002
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South Carolina
I cannot decide which will be better and I need to order a cam soon!

The moter will be a stock 5.0 with about 9.5-1 comp. It will have a high rise duel plane with a 600 cfm carb and hedders. The heads will be stock until I have the cash to up grade. Trans is a C-4 auto with light stall and shift kit. The rear will more than likely be 4.11s.

Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!! :nice:
 
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heres another vote for the B. however, if you're looking for suggestions, i'd say the tfs 1 would be the better choice. Like was mentioned above, make sure you have the springs to support the cam.
 
If you mean on both intake and exhaust, then yes. I ran the "cobra" rollers on the E7's and Comp Cams rollers on the Canfields now. I originally bought the "cobra rollers back when I has a stock Crown Vic 5.0 in the ranger, then built another roller 5.0 with the ported E7's so I went with the B303 to use the cobra rollers without running into to little valve-piston clearance issues. Lift with them is .510. When I swapped the Canfields on earlier this fall, I thought about going bigger on the cam, but the 1.7/ B303 combo works good for me, the motor pulls up to 7500 rpms ( valve float) don't need to go faster and risk grenading the bottom end, I'm pushing it now as is. The short block cost me $340, all I did to it was to install ARP bolts on the rods and a HV oilpump and drive.
 
D.Hearne said:
Just buy a used one. Good thing about roller cams, they last forever and can be reused. I see em for sale in the classifieds here on StangNet all the time for 50-60 bucks less than a new one. Ditto for the cobra roller rockers.


Thanks for the tip. I will check it out.
 
I was going to buy a used on for mine, but when I was putting the motor together, I was in a hurry and as luck would have it, I couldn't find one available, so I bought a new one from Summit. Now that I'm not looking for one, I see em alll the time, just saw one earlier this evening, in the classifieds here or on the carbed ford message board classifieds.
 
I personally don't like the alpahabet cams there are much better one's out there now. They came out in the early 90's

I like the exhaust to have more lift than the intake. If the cam had the same lift on the exhaust and intake I would always run 1.6 intake and 1.7 rr's.
 
Fostang said:
I personally don't like the alpahabet cams there are much better one's out there now. They came out in the early 90's

I like the exhaust to have more lift than the intake. If the cam had the same lift on the exhaust and intake I would always run 1.6 intake and 1.7 rr's.

my thoughts exactly. However, there are people (as stated above) that are very knowledgable and have great results with the "alphabet's". its all in the combo really.
 
Here's my take on the differences between the "alphabet" cams and the other's: unless you dyno the motor, you'll likely not be able to tell the difference from one Hipo cam to another that have similar specs. If I had stock unported small block, 385 series or cleveland heads, I'd consider a dual pattern cam. But I ran it with hogged out exhaust ports on the E7's and now with the Canfields and it works great. Also running now and always have run single patterns with my FE's ( 390 and 427's) these motors aren't cursed with piss-poor exhaust ports like other Fords were. I think the "alphabet cams" are the best value for the money, you have to pay twice the price for "better" cams to get just a little more performance.
 
D.Hearne said:
Here's my take on the differences between the "alphabet" cams and the other's: unless you dyno the motor, you'll likely not be able to tell the difference from one Hipo cam to another that have similar specs. If I had stock unported small block, 385 series or cleveland heads, I'd consider a dual pattern cam. But I ran it with hogged out exhaust ports on the E7's and now with the Canfields and it works great. Also running now and always have run single patterns with my FE's ( 390 and 427's) these motors aren't cursed with piss-poor exhaust ports like other Fords were. I think the "alphabet cams" are the best value for the money, you have to pay twice the price for "better" cams to get just a little more performance.

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunatly My E-7s are stock and I cant afford to upgrade to aftermarket aluminum heads. What are my options if my total buget is in the 500 - 600 dollar range?
 
For $5-600 bucks you can get a Ford roller cam,new pushrods ( the roller ones wear faster cause they don't spin) and a set of bolt down pedestal roller rockers maybe even new lifters if you feel you'rs have too many miles on them. And a new timing set or at least a new chain if your's has the double roller set now. Even buying new stuff, you won't spend that much ( if you buy from Summit or Jegs) There's a used B cam in the classifieds for like $80-90, used cobra rockers run about $100-125. A new set of hardened pushrods from Ford are $25-30, Timing set can run $45-80 depending on what set you go for. You'll have lotsa change left over for other stuff ( gaskets, oil & filter, coolant, etc.)
 
D.Hearne said:
For $5-600 bucks you can get a Ford roller cam,new pushrods ( the roller ones wear faster cause they don't spin) and a set of bolt down pedestal roller rockers maybe even new lifters if you feel you'rs have too many miles on them. And a new timing set or at least a new chain if your's has the double roller set now. Even buying new stuff, you won't spend that much ( if you buy from Summit or Jegs) There's a used B cam in the classifieds for like $80-90, used cobra rockers run about $100-125. A new set of hardened pushrods from Ford are $25-30, Timing set can run $45-80 depending on what set you go for. You'll have lotsa change left over for other stuff ( gaskets, oil & filter, coolant, etc.)


Thanks. But I ment as far as a head upgrade. I guess I should have been clearer in my post. Any how, that did help. I was wondering what kind of things I should peace together for the build up.