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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Baffle for Factory Valve Covers?

  • Thread starter Thread starter allballsmustang
  • Start date Start date Jul 3, 2007

allballsmustang

Member
Mar 31, 2005
174
0
16
Lehigh Valley, PA
Jul 3, 2007
#1
  • Jul 3, 2007
  • #1
Anyone have some pics of a baffle that they fabbed up for their factory valve covers to clear roller rockers?? I was actally thinking about using a piece of screen... any suggestions?

jim
 

cenok is family

15 Year Member
Jun 25, 2003
1,409
69
79
Norman, Ok
Jul 3, 2007
#2
  • Jul 3, 2007
  • #2
i just took mine out completely...
 

allballsmustang

Member
Mar 31, 2005
174
0
16
Lehigh Valley, PA
Jul 3, 2007
#3
  • Jul 3, 2007
  • #3
cenok is family said:
i just took mine out completely...
Click to expand...

did you connect the hose that goes to the throttle body back up or did you just use a regular breather on it?
 

mustanggt5pt0

New Member
Sep 27, 2004
34
0
0
Cedar Falls, Iowa
Jul 3, 2007
#4
  • Jul 3, 2007
  • #4
I just took the baffle off and then pounded it flat. I put the valve cover back on and checked to see where it was hitting and then used a dremel to give enough clearance. I also had to use an angle grinder to remove extra casting material from the sides to make mine fit.
 

cenok is family

15 Year Member
Jun 25, 2003
1,409
69
79
Norman, Ok
Jul 3, 2007
#5
  • Jul 3, 2007
  • #5
allballsmustang said:
did you connect the hose that goes to the throttle body back up or did you just use a regular breather on it?
Click to expand...

i put the hose back on for now. i'll probably go with a breather later on though seeing as theres no longer anything stopping oil from going up the filler neck and hose anymore.
 
9

91notchbk

Member
Nov 20, 2006
163
1
18
Jackson Michigan
Jul 3, 2007
#6
  • Jul 3, 2007
  • #6
Hi Jim,

I went through this dilema when I built my motor. I first removed the old baffle and ground material away and made a new baffle and reattached it by drilling some new holes and using self tapping screws. This worked but I was nervous about the screws. Even though I used loc-tite I thought if one came loose it would destroy the motor.

So I finally decided to make a small cover out of sheet metal and weld it to the bottom of the oil-fill tube. The oil-filltube is steel so it will work. One problem I ran into was I already hade painted the valve covers (base coat/clear coat) so welding may ruin the paint. I was able to use a mig welder with and make small short spot welds. After each weld I used the rags soaked in water to cool the cover to prevent hurting my paint job. Also, the metal on the bottom of the oil-fill tube is thin so only short spot weld will work or you will blow through the metal. I was able to get this to work sucessfully even with new paint on the cover. I smoothed the welds out with a die grinder after I was done.

Here is a pic of the completed baffle. You can still see the holes I drilled.

Good luck.

https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/DSC01341.JPG



My car. https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/index.html
 

allballsmustang

Member
Mar 31, 2005
174
0
16
Lehigh Valley, PA
Jul 3, 2007
#7
  • Jul 3, 2007
  • #7
91notchbk said:
Hi Jim,

I went through this dilema when I built my motor. I first removed the old baffle and ground material away and made a new baffle and reattached it by drilling some new holes and using self tapping screws. This worked but I was nervous about the screws. Even though I used loc-tite I thought if one came loose it would destroy the motor.

So I finally decided to make a small cover out of sheet metal and weld it to the bottom of the oil-fill tube. The oil-filltube is steel so it will work. One problem I ran into was I already hade painted the valve covers (base coat/clear coat) so welding may ruin the paint. I was able to use a mig welder with and make small short spot welds. After each weld I used the rags soaked in water to cool the cover to prevent hurting my paint job. Also, the metal on the bottom of the oil-fill tube is thin so only short spot weld will work or you will blow through the metal. I was able to get this to work sucessfully even with new paint on the cover. I smoothed the welds out with a die grinder after I was done.

Here is a pic of the completed baffle. You can still see the holes I drilled.

Good luck.

https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/DSC01341.JPG


My car. https://home.comcast.net/~perkin50/index.html
Click to expand...



thanks for the help...i just went out to the garage and made one like you have and it seems like it should work...just out of curiosity what rockers are you using? how much clearancing did it require on the sides of the valve cover?
 
9

91notchbk

Member
Nov 20, 2006
163
1
18
Jackson Michigan
Jul 5, 2007
#8
  • Jul 5, 2007
  • #8
allballsmustang said:
thanks for the help...i just went out to the garage and made one like you have and it seems like it should work...just out of curiosity what rockers are you using? how much clearancing did it require on the sides of the valve cover?
Click to expand...

I have the scorpion 1.6 RRs. There was not alot of clearance on the sides but they did not rub. To be safe I made some extra clearance.
 
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