Battery cables - please help

j bellomo

New Member
Mar 24, 2003
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Hi All,

Its been awhile... hope everyone is doing well!!

Anyway, I have a 2001 Cobra and am looking to replace the OEM battery and battery cables. I have been looking around for some nicer cables with no luck. I've only found the OEM replacement (which is more of a wiring harness) @ $220.00... there's gotta be something nicer/better. What's everyone using? Are they difficult to swap? I'm thinking of a Red Top Optima (Group 34) to match them with....

BTW, I've heard that the Mustang cables are not a direct swap with the Cobra, could that be right?

Thanks for your insight!

Cheers
Jeff
 
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I would build my own. Go to a local sterio shop, get the propper guage wires and connectors. (May have to go to the parts store to find some specific connectors.) Crimp and solder the connectors onto the correct lengths of wire, then cover the solder joints with heat shrink tubing. Then cover the whole wire in split loom tubing and wrap with electrical tape. (Use Scotch Super 33, it's the best!) Just as good as Ford's. (Mabye better, depending on how good you are with this sort of thing.) And guarenteed WAY cheaper. If youre going for looks and not stock appearence, skip the step about the split loom and tape. And lastly the optima is a great battery, go for it!:nice:
 
I would build my own. Go to a local sterio shop, get the propper guage wires and connectors. (May have to go to the parts store to find some specific connectors.) Crimp and solder the connectors onto the correct lengths of wire, then cover the solder joints with heat shrink tubing. Then cover the whole wire in split loom tubing and wrap with electrical tape. (Use Scotch Super 33, it's the best!) Just as good as Ford's. (Mabye better, depending on how good you are with this sort of thing.) And guarenteed WAY cheaper. If youre going for looks and not stock appearence, skip the step about the split loom and tape. And lastly the optima is a great battery, go for it!:nice:

I would crimp, but not solder. Solder "wicks" into the wire and makes it brittle. The battery mounts on the body. The cables go to the block. The movement will cause the wire to start to break at the end of the solder joint. A good welding shop can crimp on a big connector using the proper size so that it grabs the wire without damaging anything. They even sell 0/00 sized stranded cable that is as flexible as it comes. I would coat the thing with something like liquid rubber after crimping to keep moisture and battery acid out of the copper conductor.
 
talk to a shop that specializes in custom wiring. i got a quote from a trusted friend who writes software for Vetronix, Bosch and Gernal Motors and is also a Autronic dealer. he would make a complete wiring harness, using Mil-Spec wiring and Aerospace connectors for about $3,000. that setup would run a dual ignition system and dual batteries trunk mount or interior mount, i almost handed him my credit card then and there.
 
I suppose just the battery cables themselves... I believe the other wires of the harness are in good shape, but haven't pulled it apart yet to really find out. If I'm going to spend the $ for an Optima battery I'd like to fully use the cranking power of it. That being said, I suppose its really a cosmetic upgrade since the OEM will work...

Thanks again for your time!

J
 
i would also make your own using good wire from a stereo shop. get some 4 gauge car audio power/ground wire from a top name and it will work perfect. good car audio wiring is far superior to factory wiring in every way.

JL Audio XC-PCS4-1B (xcpcs41b), Car Installation & Accessories, Amplifier Installation, Amplifier Wiring Kits, 4 Gauge - Sonic Electronix

you could use something like that to run exactly what you are wanting to do and it is fairly cheap as well. and JL make top notch equipment.