Battery Draw I cant find to save myself!!!

MoNsTaMaCk24

Founding Member
Aug 12, 2002
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Shippensburg, PA
this is on my 2004 Lincoln Navigator. My battery goes dead in 24-48 hours even fully charged on a charger for 2 hours. Rediculous. I sent it to the Ford dealership once and they said they "fixed" it. They said it was in the liftgate latch. I got a new liftgate latch. One day i went outside I heard my air suspension running while the car is off and locked. So i turned it off and still no luck. Anyone have any ideas? The thing only has like 45,000 miles...
 
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Put an ammeter on the positive battery line and start pulling fuses one at a time..

When the draw drops quite a bit your issue is whatever is on the line you just pulled the fuse for..

Note that there will always be "some" draw for things like the PCM memory, car stereo memory, etc..

Riley
 
I tried that... Most it ever pulls is like .77 which is not much at all. Im thinking something has to be turning on and off and how often I have no idea... I might just pull half my fuses and then after a few days see if it starts. If not I cut it down in half... Try that out... Any ideas?
 
Ah, the good ole Lincoln disease. Went through the same stuff with My Mark 8.

Air suspension should turn off onces the car is off. The bags may bleed off but it shouldn't refill until next key cycle.

.77 Amps is not a lot of draw. Have you load tested the battery? It could be weak and unable to maintain a charge. Once you kill a battery once, it's never the same.

Finally, begin pulling suspect fuses. If you think the air suspension is to blame, pull the fuse for it and see if the problem persists. Keep going until you narrow it down.
 
Ah, the good ole Lincoln disease. Went through the same stuff with My Mark 8.

Air suspension should turn off onces the car is off. The bags may bleed off but it shouldn't refill until next key cycle.

.77 Amps is not a lot of draw. Have you load tested the battery? It could be weak and unable to maintain a charge. Once you kill a battery once, it's never the same.

Finally, begin pulling suspect fuses. If you think the air suspension is to blame, pull the fuse for it and see if the problem persists. Keep going until you narrow it down.

False. You need to perform a parasitic draw test with an ammeter on the battery acoss the negative battery terminal and negative battery cable. .77 amps is way out of range the maximum parastic draw spec for ALL fords is 50 miliamps which is equivalent to .050 amps MAX of allowable draw. Once you hook up the meter start pulling fuses until the meter drops below .050 amps. Make sure that after you pull the fuses that you do not put them back this will wake up the modules in the vehicle. Another thing before performing the parasitic draw test let the vehicle sit for 40 minutes to an hour to allow the modules go to sleep. Once you find out what circuit the draw is under put the fuse back and disconnect the components within that circuit until the amps drop out and that will be where the problem lies.
Let us know.
 
Battery is alright... I thought it was that so i put the optima in it from my stang and same result. Pulling fuses with a meter dont help I did it. Took forever and got no where. I turned my air suspension off with the switch in the back. Thats why I am going to pull a **** load of fuses and see what happens after a few days. If I can just figure out which half of fuses is doing it I will cut time and half trying to fix it... I might look at it today... We will see!
 
Yea start under the hood at eh battery junction box removing each fuse and monitoring the meter then move on the the central junction box (under dash) removing each one until you find the circuit where the meter drops below .050 amps or 50 miliamps.