Battery in trunk question?

I was looking in the trunk tonight also wondering where to put the battery. My initial concern is that the floor in there isn't parallel to the ground. I just took a quick look, so maybe I'm wrong.

What kit were you looking into? I thought the one Summit offers for $42 looked pretty good.
 
If you have holes in you gas tank to let fumes become a danger then I think you need to worry about a new gas tank before relocating the battery.....mig welding on one of the sides of the trunk floor is perfectly safe, and I usually do it when the gas tank is out but I would do it with it in place if it was solid. You can use a thru hole if you want (isn't drilling near the gas tank dangerous then too) but how are you going to tighen it properly? If you do this use a body bolt type of nut (with the serrated edges) so it grips by itself. I prefer the welded nut since there is no question of a good ground since the nut is now part of the car. A little anti-sieze compound and you have a worry free, corrosion free connection.
 
No, like the nuts holding the strut braces from the shock tower to the cowl....basically a body nut. They are also used to hold the outer shock towers (with the snubber) to the shock tower....and the monte carlo bar if installed>
 
I drilled a hole and welded a bolt in. MY car has a fairly elaborate electrical system and I have no ground issues, even up front. I talked with Mark at MAD Electrical before doing this and he said the body provides a much better ground than running a cable to the front.
 
D.Hearne said:
Just me, but on a unibody style car such as a Mustang, I'd run a separate ground cable back up to the motor, this will give a better ground than a 30 something year old unibody.
Not true, every spot weld is another pathway....there is no better ground conduit than a unibody, 40 years old or not.
 
D.Hearne said:
:D
:D I'd still run a ground cable. 30 year old Unibody or not, Copper is a better conductor than steel. :nice:
:D For stereos I agree......HAHAHAHAHA.....but I don't like cables under the car to begin with so one is more than enough for me. I built an 93 EFI street/race car with a battery in the trunk. I grounded the battery to the frame and then ran a 10ga copper ground cable directly to the EEC IV as I felt this was a safe way to do it....but engine is grounded to the frame in the front and uses the unibody as the conduit for the starter and it has never been a problem. But as usual eveyone must do what they feel is right. :nice:
 
vobraman said:
can someone post some pic's of the battery mounted in the trunk ?

thanks

Here is my setup. The cable from the solenoid to starter (1/0 gauge) and the cable from the alternator to the battery (4 gauge) are run down the passenger side through the door sill. The bolt for the ground cable is mounted in the inner most trunk area (the area under the package tray) and at the highest point possible.

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