What is the best relocation kit? Where to get it? and what alternator is best to use, everyone I have talked to tells me different. Car is a 93 gt. What all does it take to do the alternator and relocation, I need a list, I am gonna order it all and get started.
if plan to run at the track you have to have an nhra legal box and as far as i know they dont have any kits with the legal boxes included. you will also need a kill switch mounted in the rear to run at the track. i would buy the moroso box and just go to a local welding supply shop and buy 2g cables. thats the cheapest way. a good alternator to get would be a 3g. the stock 2g 75amp(i think it is) isnt very good. i run a 150amp alt in my car but i have a huge electric fan, a sub and amp and msd ignition and gauges. those kits at summit dont give you enough cable. just enough to run a power wire from the battery to the front and a short ground to attach to the trunk. the best way to wire it is with a 2g cable from the alt to the battery, a 2g cable thats from the negative battery to the block...not the trunk, and a 2g cable from the battery to the starter solinoid. a welding supply shop will have all the wire ends you need for cheap
after electrical issues recently i went ground crazy. i have a 2g grounded to the trunk, a 2g that runs from the negative terminal to my alt. from the same bolt i ran a 2g cable to the frame in the front and from there i have a 2g cable connected to the front of the block where the stock ground wire used to be
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on
the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear
ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny
spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and
bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in
the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute
don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Picture courtesy of timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop
will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover
the lugs and make things look nice.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10
gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang
wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40'
of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies power
to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring and lots more…
as far as nhra legal im not sure the tech guys at the track i go to are very picky by the book and the only mods i had to upgrade on mine was u have to use 3/8 thick studs,all the way through the bottom of the trunk...and u need a kill switch, also you cant have more the 1/4inch slack on those 3/8 studs that hold the battery..ohh and i dont have a box either for it
i believe i messed up the wiring on mine....i got the 130 amp from pa and relocated my battery...but sometimes when i switch on the electric fan my idle surges.....i recently got a dee cycle battery..exide blue top....it help it alot but im not satisfied because it shouldnt do that...i have a 2g wire from the ground on battery to the block, then i have the 2gauge wire from the soloniod to the battery positive, from the other side of the soloniod is the 4g wire that came with the alt which has a huge fuse running to the alternator....i dont know if that sounds right but thats what i did....i also ground the battery again to the body of the car......