Battery Relocation on GT, need pics to decide!!

Here's some pics of my battery box. The first pic is when the car was still an LX, right after I did the battery box/ switch installation. The second pic is how I did the tag later on. I got some threaded rod, nuts, and wing nuts from Lowe's and made the extensions. All I have to do to remove the tag is remove the two wing nuts. When the hatch is closed, you can't tell there's a switch behind it, nor can you tell it's even extended. I like it alot.
Hope this helps...

Same thing as above,

Switch


Box

BADPONYsc whered you get that box, it like the way it looks!

Mine is the Taylor kit. I got the box and complete kit from Holcomb Motorsports for $119. That's the best price I've seen on the box AND kit.
GroverDill's is the Moroso box.... also very nice and sealed, vented, and NHRA legal.

BADPONYsc said:

Mine is the Taylor kit. I got the box and complete kit from Holcomb Motorsports for $119. That's the best price I've seen on the box AND kit.
GroverDill's is the Moroso box.... also very nice and sealed, vented, and NHRA legal.

Click to expand...

Is yours NHRA legal? I just cant stand the color of GroverDills.

Bad pony did you have any clearance issues with that hatch?

8urlt1 said:

Bad pony did you have any clearance issues with that hatch?

Click to expand...

I have the Taylor kit as well and there is no clearance issues with the hatch. I polished my box to give it nice mirror fininsh. I'll post some pics when I get off of work tonight.

Yes, the Taylor kit is HNRA legal.

My box has about an inch of clearance between the box and the hatch, but I removed the big plastic trim panel that's on the inside of all hatches. I don't see the point in that trim anyway....you can't even see it when the hatch is closed. I think that if I did have the trim piece, it might hit the box. Not sure though, maybe not.

Hey, thanks! I did it last summer when I had some time off, so I thought it through and planned it carefully and it turned out nicely. Here's some more details....
I didn't want to cut my factory carpet to fit around the box, especially since the car has black interior. So I did it like this:
1) Got 4 round rubber feet from Lowe's and stuck them to the four corners of the bottom of the battery box, since there is a clump of wiring under where I mounted it that go to the gas tank. Putting the rubber feet under the box raised it up (about 1/2" to 3/4" I guess) where it doesn't touch the wiring and the box sits nice and firm and level.
2) Mounted the box through the floor with the threaded rods provided with the kit and hacked off the excess.
3) Drilled a hole behind the tag for the switch. I used the biggest drill bit I had, then hollowed out the rest with a grinding bit until the switch fit though. Then I mounted the switch.
4) Ran the red cable from the solonoid, through the rubber insulation that the steering colomn goes through, under the carpet, behind the inner-quarter-panel trim, to the switch's location (behind tag), cut the cable there and attached one side of the cable to one post on the switch and the other side to the other post, then ran the rest through the hole in the box and attached it to the + side of the battery.
5) Drilled a hole in the metal under where the switch is mounted, cleaned all the paint from around the hole, and mounted the ground wire using a bolt on top and a nut from under the car and tightened it down really good. Then attached the cable through the other hole in the box and attached it to the - side of the battery.
6) Drilled another small hole near the ground hole for the vent tube, attached the vent tube to the box and ran the tube down through the hole and cutt off the excess.
7) Then I just atached the box's lid and tightened it down with the washers and wing nuts and that part of the installation was done. Flipped the switch to "on" and cranked the car to see if everything worked....which it did.
8) For the rear carpet, like I said, I didn't want to hack up the factory carpet. So what I did was... took large sheets of paper and covered the hatch-floor area with them, taped them all together with masking tape, took a pencil and traced all around the perimeter of the hatch's edges and around the battery box. Then I removed the paper, cut the lines I had drawn with scissors. Then I took this "template" and put it on top of a sheet of peg-board I got at Lowe's (solid, without the little holes), and traced the pattern onto the board. then I cut it out with a jigsaw and covered it with black carpet (auto-store) with spray adhesive. For the backs of the rear seats I just measured the sizes of the original ones, traced it onto the remaining peg board, cut them out, and covered them with the black carpet also. Then I just attached them to the metal plates behind the seats.
It all fit great and even looked better then the factory stuff... and I didn't have to cut up any of my original stuff. The peg board is light and easy to cut and won't add any significant weight to the car. If you have no spare and jack, a heavier wood would be need, so it wouldn't cave in..... but I keep my spare/jack/wrench in the car because I'm paranoid. I just know that if I was to take it out, I would get a flat the next day!
Anyway... sorry this went on and on... but maybe it will be of some help to someone.

wheres thooose piiccss lol

What pics?

hey guys i bought my car already with a relocated battery and i dont havea whole lot of knowledge on the subject but, what is the switch you guys keep talking about? what does it do i cant find mine?

It's a cut-off switch like in mine and GroverDill's pics above. Both of ours are behind the tag, but some people put them on the bumper cover or even on the taillight. I like it behind the tag because noone can see it or fool with it.
It cuts the battery off from the car's electrical system in case of emergency when racing. The complete installation would be to run you alternator's charge wire to the same side of the switch that the battery is on so that when you flip the switch, the car cuts off. I haven't done that yet, but when the weather gets better, I'm going to. If you don't see a switch like in our pics above, then yours must have been installed without one. Take the rear plastic trim panels off and trace the battery's + wire from the battery around to the front of the car if you want to make sure.
Hope this helps!

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Dam I wish I would have seen this when I did mine. I would have done it the same way. That is just outstanding, and a slick way to hide that saftey switch/