BBK Long Tube Header Install Questions

[WhiteCobra95]

I'm slowly getting ready to install ceramic coated BBK long tubes in my '95, and I have a couple questions which I can't find direct answers to in the past posts.

1) How should I route the dip stick tube on the driver-side once the header is installed? I currently have the BBK unequal shorties, and I ended up bending the mounting tab so that the dipstick tube runs around the outside of the header which works perfectly. Is this the same strategy I should use with the long-tubes or will the extra long primary pipes require something different? I would appreciate any pictures you can offer for suggestions. I've read a couple posts where some people have dumped the SN95 dipstick tube for a FOX setup, which I don't want to do unless it's really necessary.

2) How should I disconnect the engine mount to lift up the motor? I've done long tubes on older Ford cars in the past and I'm familiar with the process of lifting the engine to slip them in. However, the mustang motor mounts are a little bit different than the old big block mounts that I'm used to. What's the best method for disconnecting the motor mounts from the K-member? I'm guessing that the best plan is to undo the nut from the mount's threaded rod/K-member and leave the mount bolted to the block. If that is the base way, is it even possible to retorque that nut or should I just plan on arm-stronging it afterwards?

3) I've also read some posts that you don't really need to pull the starter motor to get the passenger side header in. Is that true or should I just plan on pulling it to save time?

4) Should I take any precautions with wiring, the starter motor, or other tubing once the long tube headers are installed? I'm concerned that the added surface area might toast some of the wiring or the starter motor. Are there any common areas that I should lout for? Should I plan on replacing the starter motor on a regular basis like the older v8's with long tubes?

5) I'm currently using the .75" thread length header bolts on my BBK shorties and they only grab the heads on about two or three threads due to the thick flanges that the BBK's use. (Passable on my iron gt40's, but not so good for aluminum heads.) Is it possible to use the 1" thread length header bolts with the BBK long tubes for more thread contact or will I have trouble getting them to feed through the flange on the inside bend of the primary tubes?

6) Please let me know if there are any other tips or suggestions you have regarding this install. I'm trying to capture all of the REAL installation instruction points that the manufacturers never tell us about.

Thanks for the help =)

 

[ProKiller]

1.) any way you can.
2.) i loosened the two bolts that attach the mount to the block. but really either way will work.
3.) it took me about 20 minutes to put the driver's side in and about 7 hours to put the passenger side in. remove the starter.
4.) I burned up my starter after a couple weeks. i have since replaced it and put heat wrap around it. the wires have been fine with the exception of the o2s. i've melted the extensions against the header.
5.) i would get 1" to be safe
6.) I have fox headers on my car, but the only other helpful thing i can say is that we lowered the tranny cross member at the same time we jacked up the engine.

 

[revhead347]

I've done this job many times.

Remove the starter, it's just easier. I have tried every sort of heat protection available for the starter motor, and nothing works. If it gets heat soaked it will fail. Save your money and get a denso gear reduction starter, and you will never have another starter issue again. Had mine for about 10 years now. If the wiring is in the stock location it shouldn't be an issue.

I've done a stock dipstick before. I routed the dipstick between the 7 and 8 primary. Then I bent the tap over to bolt on the stud of the valve cover. It was not on my car, so I don't have pics of it. I have a 7 qt oil pan, and the dipstick is totally different.

I always unbolt the nut under the k member. It's much easier than trying to re align the two bolt holes on the block. Just hand tighten it. It's not a torque sensitive bolt.

I use the stage 8 locking header bolts which I believe are .750". I don't have a problem with aluminum heads. If you have a locking bolt it won't be an issue anyway.

Don't forget to relocate the AC line on the passenger side if you still have AC. If you don't relocate it, it will melt. I have posted pictures and information on how to do this in another thread.

Kurt.

 

[WhiteCobra95]

Thanks for all of the great information. I really appreciate the detailed replies - this is exactly what I needed.

Regarding the Denso starter, do you have a part number and a suggestion for where to pick one up? Does it have the starter solenoid integrated like the factory SN95 starter? Did you have to make any wiring changes or does it just bolt right up?

 

[Bullitt95]

I've had long tube headers on my car for 4 years. When I had them installed, I also insulated my starter with a DEI Starter Versashield (available at Summit Racing) and it's still surviving (knock on wood).

 

[revhead347]

I used that DEI starter insulator and it didn't do anything. Tried putting a new starter in, and it made no difference. Keep in mind, I have a 347 with higher compression which puts more load on the starter which causes slow starts when it's hot. I would leave the stock starter in there and see how it works out. If you have any starting troubles, don't waste any money and time on anything but a high torque starter. I've tried it all. I originally bought my gear reduction starter from a local auto electric shop for about $180, but that was over 10 years ago. Advance now carries them under the PowerMaster name. If you are going to the counter, it's listed under Starter-Performance in the computer. Summitracing probably has them too. There are two PowerMaster starters available, the cheaper one is just a stock one that is build up a little bit. Never used it, and I have no idea if it's any better than stock. The second one is a Denso Gear Reduction, which has unbelievable starting power. This is factory equipment on some Chryslers, and Corvettes. It has the solenoid on the starter, and is a direct replacement.

Buy Powermaster Mastertorque Starter - Infi-Clock™ Small Block Ford 3/4" Depth PM9603 at Advance Auto Parts

Kurt

 

[WhiteCobra95]

Thanks for the info. I searched for that starter and looks pretty serious! Summit has it for around $200 which isn't too bad. It definitely looks like a worthy investment for either a stock replacement or upgraded engines. And if it can survive header heat, it's definitely worth it!

Where can I find that post on relocating the A/C line? I looked at mine under-hood and I see exactly what you mean; it's located right across from the exhaust manifold. My '95 has a bunch of heat sleeve over it from the factory, but even with the shorty headers there's only about an inch of clearance.

 

[turbogt]

1.) any way you can.
2.) i loosened the two bolts that attach the mount to the block. but really either way will work.
3.) it took me about 20 minutes to put the driver's side in and about 7 hours to put the passenger side in. remove the starter.
4.) I burned up my starter after a couple weeks. i have since replaced it and put heat wrap around it. the wires have been fine with the exception of the o2s. i've melted the extensions against the header.
5.) i would get 1" to be safe
6.) I have fox headers on my car, but the only other helpful thing i can say is that we lowered the tranny cross member at the same time we jacked up the engine.

7 hours!!???

Holy ****..

It took me about 3 hours to install my BBK longtubes, and an hour of that was pulling my Vortech off..


The drivers side was gravy.. I installed it from the top after I jacked the engine up as high as it would go, while the passenger slipped in from the bottom.. I don't remember if I took the starter off or not? I'm pretty sure I did though..

I bought an extra PA starter and heatwrap, but my stock starter is still kicking 3 years later

 

[revhead347]

I'll relink those photos when I get to the hotel tonight.

Kurt.

 

[revhead347]

Ok, it's actually really easy. On the high pressure AC line that runs along the passenger inner fender, there is a little bracket that attaches it to the fender. You want to remove the passenger side wheel, and drill a hole through the inner fender about 3 inches higher than the original mount point for that bracket. Reach inside and pull the line up, and attach the bracket at the new point with a small nut and bolt. These pictures aren't that great, but it's kind of hard to get a camera in there. This is on a 94' Cobra with BBK longtubes.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

Oh, we forgot something else important. If you put longtubes on, your O2 sensors harnesses won't reach. You either have to buy new O2 sensors, or buy extendors. BBK sells a set of extension harnesses. If you choose to get new O2 sensors, you have to get them for a 92' Ford Explorer V6 (3.0 or 4.0, both are the same). One will be longer than the other, but it will work perfectly if your plugs are in the factory location.

Kurt

 

[64post]

Good info here

Thanks for the pointers here. Fox Body long tubes fit 94-95's? Is that with with Fox bellhousing, T/O fork and cable or? What about X and H pipes, many say Fox applications fit SN95's Yet Co's list separate part #'s for each, does anyone have experience with this?

 

[revhead347]

That is correct. Foxbody headers should fit with a fox bellhousing.

Kurt

 

[ProKiller]

yeah, it took that long. just couldn't get them up in there. we tried from over top and it wouldn't work, tried again from underneath and finally got them in. again, i'm using fox headers so that might have given me some of the problems.

 

[Last5.0]

Thanks for the pointers here. Fox Body long tubes fit 94-95's? Is that with with Fox bellhousing, T/O fork and cable or? What about X and H pipes, many say Fox applications fit SN95's Yet Co's list separate part #'s for each, does anyone have experience with this?

Different part #'s because SN95's have EGR port on passenger side primary while Fox's don't (they have internal EGR setup). So if you're still running EGR then you will either need to install a bung on the fox headers or convert to a fox style throttle body/intake setup.

I run a fox style SFI bellhousing and clutch fork and run BBK SN95 longtubes with the EGR port capped. I probably could have run fox longtubes but I got these from a buddy for a good price.

 

[WhiteCobra95]

WOW! The long tubes stretch a lot further away from the heads than the shorties. This really illustrates the importance of moving that AC line.

I think you all have helped cover a lot of the critical items that they leave out of the installation instructions. Personally, I would rather know these details before getting into a job and getting stuck. I think it really helps to know what you're getting into (and being mentally prepared) before starting the job to avoid these frustrations. Thanks a million!