BBK LT's finally on, now some concerns

rllndg17

Member
Jun 9, 2004
129
0
17
Well after a 20 hour or so battle with fitting the headers putting the springs back on and trying to get the oil dip stick tube back in I finally have the headers and h-pipe on. The car sounds sweet and I can feel some improvements in acceleration for sure. I did run into a couple of problems.

1. I could not get 2 of the bolts on on the passenger side header (top of header). I did use locking header bolts and I was able to get the locks on most bolts. All of the bolts went on just fine on the driver side. The passenger header is on there real tight and I don't think it will come off but will missing two bolts cause problems? (I couldn't find any obvious leaks)

2. I could not get the oil dip stick tube all the way back in its hole. It's just sitting in it a little bit and I hope it won't pop out...I'm going to look into getting the ones that you can bend but can I put this on smiply with the car jacked up?
 
Congrats man! *update sig :D*

As far as the dip stick...I put it back in BEFORE the LTs were all bolted up...and it was still VERY hard to get it in. If your is in a little, just use ALOT of force and it should go.
I have heard of our BBK LTs leaking at the gasket, so if I were you I would seriously try to get those 2 bolts in. And you did drop the K member right? I just dont see how you could do it W/O dropping it lol....maybe that explains the 20 hours haha. It took us 3-4 to pull the stock ones and install the LTs. About 2 hours tearing teh frontend down and pulling the K...another 3-4 putting it all back togethor. The car was down for weeks since we did a little at a time when we had time lol.
 
I would take it off, and redo the bolts. I forgot exactry how I did it. But I had to hold nuts there befor i placed LT up against head or something. It took me some creativeness. But u'll NEED all the bolts otherwise, you'll have naggine leak issues
 
Lokar

As for the dipstick, u could always get the one from Lokar. Its flexable and would make life alot simplar, if u dont mind paying about $30. Mine however I had to struggle with, but eventually goes in. I also suggest putting in the other header bolts. Try using the ones BBK supplied, it worked for me on drivers side where i couldnt get the stage 8's in. Undo the motor mount bolts jack up the engine and u should have enough room. I used lock tight on all bolts even with stage 8's and never had a leak in over a year (and they have been on and off 3 times already lol)
 
We definetly took the k member off and followed all the instructions on fnsweet.com's website. I used stage 8 locking header bolts and bbk bolts where I couldn't get them in + locktite. The two we couldn't get in were: the far back one on the top and the 2nd from the front on the top passenger side. I used the ford racing gaskets too. The bolts that didn't go in aren't right next to one another. As far as getting that dip stick tube in, I'm gona try to get under the hood and see if I can squish it down if not I'm gona def. order this bendable one but will I be able to do that w/o taking the k-member back off? I don't want to have to get under there again unless I have to b/c of time that I don't have hah :( I'm going to try to get under there this summer for those two bolts but until then I'll just have to keep my ears open which won't be hard because my car screams now :nice:

Oh and my breaks have to be pushed in farther to slow down...alignment isn't off at all, I guess bleed the breaks?
 
You still might want to get an alignment, mine felt fine afterwards but it was WAY off.

You deffinetely need those other bolts in, its not fun but it is possible with some speciality wrenches. I think I used a crows foot attatchment and it worked really well. I used the BBK gaskets and tightened everything to spec and still have a gasket leak - so I would recommend installing the other bolts.

And you shouldnt use locktite on header bolts.. you should use anti-seize.
 
Hmm I looked up some info on these crow's foot wrenches and it does look like that would make things a lot easier as far as tightening up the headers. I'll definetly get back under there in a couple of weeks when I get some time, I'm in the process of moving and I will have my first garage ever since getting the mustang. Thanks for the tips.
 
I understand people say dont use locktite on header bolts, especially on aluminum heads, but that is just so they will come loose later. I dont plan on taking headers on and off all the time and i dont think other people do either, so the locktite is extra insurance for the bolts. Besides locktite will melt at 800 degrees, just put a little heat to them and badabing.
 
296blackstangs said:
I understand people say dont use locktite on header bolts, especially on aluminum heads, but that is just so they will come loose later. I dont plan on taking headers on and off all the time and i dont think other people do either, so the locktite is extra insurance for the bolts. Besides locktite will melt at 800 degrees, just put a little heat to them and badabing.

U'll never know. trust me on that....:(
Mine came off 4 times in duration of 2 weeks due to several unnatural WTF's:nonono:
 
4 times in 2 weeks? ouch :( Well I was able to get the dip stick tube bolted onto the engine, had to go to home depot because I couldn't find the bolt for it anymore... I'm thinking my next mod is probably going to be a catback like the SLP one. As far as HP though, would I be better off just buying an off road h-pipe (mine right now has cats) or spending the money on a cat back? ( I need the cats to pass inspections around here)
 
Try and do a clutch without at least loosening off one side of the BBK headers ....

Locktite is NOT a good idea.

And yes, you need those other bolts on - they will leak very soon otherwise. Not sure why you can't reach them - with the engine slightly lowered it is a piece of cake. (well - that's a little overstated but you understand).