Bearings

StinkinLincoln · Sep 16, 2007

well if you have followed any of my posts about my engine issues, i have pull the motor today and pull the main caps. all but like one main bearings were worn real bad. 1 or 2 were scarred real bad and one had like scars in the middle and one or two had the outside edge showing copper. i got alot of pics on photobucket, some are clear, some blurry. either tomorrow or Tuesday im gonna look at the rod bearings.

Bosko5.0 · Sep 16, 2007

Are the oil holes in the crankshaft clear of debris?
what does the crank shaft look like?
Did you use pastiguage to check clearance before it ran?

I heard that if you take a penny and rub it on the crank shaft journals and the penny rubs off onto the crank shaft it needs to be turned or resurfaced( I don't remember that much I heard this like 5 years ago).

StinkinLincoln · Sep 16, 2007

the crank looks ok
im not sure if it got worn where the bearing was worn on the outside edge. ill look more closely the next time i open it up. the bearings had oil on them when i pulled them, i dont remember if they all did but most did anyway.
i gauged like one or two mains and i think they were within specs (i had specs on the stock motor) i dont remember though. i just wanted to get done with it when i put it together so i think i just put them in.

heres where i think part of the prob came in. i used Rotella T 15w-40 oil, thats kinda thick from what im gathering.

StinkinLincoln · Sep 17, 2007

com'on experienced guys i need some help.
take a look at all the motor pics and the tq. converter pics, im so in over my head right now its not funny!

Bosko5.0 · Sep 18, 2007

try posting on corral.net more expierinced people there I can tell cause alot of them are stuborn and picky.

There is another forum that is mainly ford engines but I don,t know the name.

Methodical · Sep 18, 2007

From the looks of things it looks like there was some foreign material in the oil. I'd suggest you plastigauge each bearing next time. You probably will have to have the crank grounded .010 and polished and get the matching bearings. Get the crank oil holes chamfered, if not already done.

Also, are the clean bearings the ones you checked when you initially put the motor together?

It looks like their was some sort of upward or downward thrust on the crank - possibly from the SC - and it ended up wearing the edges of some of the bearings - the bearings with the wear on the edges what numbers are they?

Just thinking off the top of my head. When I built my motor I checked and rechecked clearances - sort of anal.

What is it that you want? - what is your question?

Yobi1Kanobi · Sep 18, 2007

I havent followed your build, but did you build it yourself....

And there are alot of things that could have gone wrong but yes plastiguaging would have told you if you had enough clearance in those journals. Maybe you used bearing that were udersize for your crank...Remember just cuz the box said it was the right size it doesnt mean it does....

juiced_94gt · Sep 19, 2007

Have you built a motor before? just asking because there are SO MANY different things to check for like Thrust bearing clearence and main and rod clearences, thats why i went with a built shortblock from CHP (which i hope hasn't failed as you have read my other posts already) good luck man me and you are in the same boat...10k plus paper weights right now.

StinkinLincoln · Sep 19, 2007

nope, that was my first build. i didnt know any better, this time it will get done right, im going to get a book on blueprinting and do it right.

BlackVert · Sep 19, 2007

for better or worse, personal experience is the best teacher.

i applaud you for building it yourself. i hope to build one some day

Methodical · Sep 20, 2007

StinkinLincoln said:
nope, that was my first build. i didnt know any better, this time it will get done right, im going to get a book on blueprinting and do it right.

The book I used when I built my motor was "How to Build an Small Block Ford." I think I got it from Summit. Plus tons of questions here and everywhere. So far so good. The motor came to life of 5/27/05.

I don't know much about blueprinting, but just be prepared.

Also, since you will build it yourself, put the saved money into higher quality parts. And check, double check and then check again.

Dino Dino Bambino · Sep 20, 2007

StinkinLincoln said:
well if you have followed any of my posts about my engine issues, i have pull the motor today and pull the main caps. all but like one main bearings were worn real bad. 1 or 2 were scarred real bad and one had like scars in the middle and one or two had the outside edge showing copper. i got alot of pics on photobucket, some are clear, some blurry. either tomorrow or Tuesday im gonna look at the rod bearings.

Yeah, you'll definitely need to check the rod bearings. I'd be surprised if those are still OK given how bad the mains are. They should, in all likelihood, be even worse especially the upper halves of the rod bearings.
With that degree of bearing wear, and the unevenness of the wear pattern, the crank journals will need to be reground 0.010" undersize and you'll need new matching undersize bearings. The oil holes must also be chamfered to ensure proper bearing lubrication. While you're there, replace the oil pump and pick-up tube with new items.
The question is what caused this? I don't think "thick" oil is to blame. Perhaps foreign material in the oil but where would it have come from? I think it's more likely that the bearings were hammered by excessively high cylinder pressures caused by repeated spraying with nitrous.

StinkinLincoln · Sep 21, 2007

lol nitrous lol i wish, seriously i just got 650 miles on that N/A motor.

i think i found my problem also...the crank seemed to be forward to much and it rubbed against 2 of the main caps. one cap it was real bad, that was the middle one #3 w/ the thrust washer. it was wore real bad, u can tell it heated up. the crank was to far forward b/c i either put it there and didnt notice or when i put the motor to the transmission in the car i left the tq. converter on the flywheel, found out that was a no-no. so im going to have the crank tested to make sure it ok, have it ground .010 and have the mains bored/honed and get matching bearings. i want to put this thing together so i know how, the right way, but i want it to last and i dont have the specs and clearances i need for a performance motor. if you could help that would be a life saver! also what are all the tools i will need?

Methodical · Sep 21, 2007

StinkinLincoln said:
lol nitrous lol i wish, seriously i just got 650 miles on that N/A motor.

i think i found my problem also...the crank seemed to be forward to much and it rubbed against 2 of the main caps. one cap it was real bad, that was the middle one #3 w/ the thrust washer. it was wore real bad, u can tell it heated up. the crank was to far forward b/c i either put it there and didnt notice or when i put the motor to the transmission in the car i left the tq. converter on the flywheel, found out that was a no-no. so im going to have the crank tested to make sure it ok, have it ground .010 and have the mains bored/honed and get matching bearings. i want to put this thing together so i know how, the right way, but i want it to last and i dont have the specs and clearances i need for a performance motor. if you could help that would be a life saver! also what are all the tools i will need?

One suggestion is when you torque the thrust bearing you want to tighten it while putting either forward or backward (can't remember which one right now but can check the book to verify) thrust on the crank while tightening the main bolts. For now, let the machine shop person take a look at it and do what needs to be done to the crank and main bearing surface. While in there you may as well have them balance the rotating assembly since it will be apart - you need the crank, flywheel rods and pistons.

StinkinLincoln · Sep 21, 2007

i have already had that balanced. i got a new flex plate so that it was done when i first rebuilt it.

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