beat to death topic with a twist....cutting springs

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
i know there are a lot of people out there that say cutting springs is bad and i know i should just get a set of springs from a manufacturer but hear me out. if a set of stock springs is old and sagging and you cut them it would bring it back up to the stock spring rate if not just a little more. cutting 1/2 or 1 coil out of the spring definetly changes the spring rate but wouldnt it be beneficial on a set of stock springs that have 200k miles on them? say youve got 500 in/lbs springs that are so old and worn out that they are down to 400 in/lbs. the springs have 10 coils in them and you cut one out? each coil is equivalent to 40 in/lbs when you cut them, so cutting one coil out would raise the rating to 440 in/lbs. well anyways, im really just wondering if i cut a coil out of my front springs will i have enough adjustment to get a good alignment without caster camber plates? please discuss everything ive said and let me know if ill even need an alignment. im replacing my struts at school and will be using one of the alignment racks to do the alignment afterwards and just want to know if i will be able to do it without c/c plates. thanks
 
Each coil is about an inch I believe. Mine had cut springs when I bought the car and I hated them. I put brand new stock springs back under it for $130 from autozone. Don't go to advance cos their computer is wrong ;)
 
All that about spring rates makes the situation sound more complicated than it is....basically put, you cut the springs, it'll sit lower and ride bumpier. The feeling that the springs are stiffer is really just you having less shock to handle the load and the car relying more on your (probably) stock shocks and struts to do all the work. Since you're getting new ones, you'll probably have a little better of a ride, but still i would look to buying new springs in the future. And as for how much to cut...there is NO math behind this....one coil equals whatever the hell it ends up equaling (not putting your math down there hoodstrype, just going by experience).

We cut the springs in my car just for the heck of it while my new springs were on order. I went by my best friend's math and we cut mine just like we cut his, which ended up perfect. Mine was SLAMMED and my headers barely made it over the speed bumps to get back home.

It did look pretty sweet though :nice:
626821_15_full.jpg
 
I cant fault your logic, but I think when your springs are worn out, cutting them will only make them worse. You can get a nice set of lowering springs on ebay for $100. I got em, and they work great, no complaints.
 
Butcher the springs and you butcher the ride. You said you eventually want to put in aftermarkets. How many swaps and how many alignments later? Man, ride those until you have the money for new springs. It'll save you money, headaches, and embarassing moments.
 
I'm cutting mine........with the draglites and ET streets, it's gonna handle like crap anyway.....(in my case) i figure I'll save $100 since i wont be trying to do any corner carving anyway........just my$.02.
 
cut mine also, i realy dont see the biggie on this one. Yeah it ride rougher but dont have the 100 to spare. Its either my h/c/i or springs and i think i would rather have the h/c/i. i really couldnt tell to much of a difference is the ride unless u hit a pot hole or something.
 
i am going to agree with everyone on the 'do it right the first time'.....personally, i'd HATE to do go through what i went through to get my lowering springs on TWICE!...too much hassle when you can be satisfied and know you have a set which will handle well too.
 
Your logic is flawed.

If your springs are that worn, then your car is already riding lower than stock.

Cutting the springs is only going to make a bad thing worse. Maybe to the point that your car is undrivable.

Ive cut lots of springs, in the old days thats how we did it, no aftermarket around to offer everything from springs to billet radio knobs.

I bought 4 new, never installed oem springs off ebay for $20. 04GT takeoff shocks and struts ran me another $60. SN95 rotors/calipers/spindles/hoses and a matching 8.8 rear, complete disc to disc ran me another $149.

Good deals are out there, you just have to be on the lookout for them.

If you cant hack $100 or less to replace worn, possibly unsafe springs, you should park the car.
 
well see the thing is all its going to cost me is the springs if i have to get new ones. alignments are free since i will be doing them. the springs are not unsafe...im just looking for something that is going to have a stiffer ride and handle better. yeah, i know cutting springs is the wrong way to do it. the springs dont sag that much if at all. the fender is like 1 1/2-2 inches above the tire. i just got through a suspenion class and we talked about springs and spring rates for like 10 hours. the biggest concern i have is not being able to get a good alignment on it without c/c plates.
 
Assuming the spring is not progressive, the spring constant for a helical spring is:

k=(d^4*G)/(8*D^3*N)

Where:
d = wire diameter
D = diameter of coil
G = Modulus of rigidity (a constant)
N = Number of coils

If you remove a coil you will raise the spring rate, because all else is constant. If you have 400lb/in springs with 10 coils, then

k = 4000/N

because,

k = constant/N

with,

k = 400 lb/in

N = 10

the constant must be,

constant = 4000 = (d^4*G)/(8*D^3)

If you remove one coil, N=9,

k = 4000/9 = 444 lb/in