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  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

beating a dead horse :-)

  • Thread starter Thread starter djlevine
  • Start date Start date May 14, 2005
D

djlevine

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May 14, 2005
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May 14, 2005
#1
  • May 14, 2005
  • #1
I know this topic has come up once and again, but my question and dilema are a bit different.

I have the opportunity to purchase a 90 LX 2.3L (auto) for $300. My goal is to build a carbed SBF. I also plan on using a tubular k-member, a-arms, coil overs, flaming river rack, fuel cell, C4... all of the accompanying after-market parts that you would typically see a 10 second stang.

I will also cover the gauges with a custom plate with autometer gauges so I don't need the electronics on the dash.

I AM NOT just swapping in a 5.0... I am going to build a drag car. Besides the 7.5 rear, what other pieces do I need to swap? brake parts? etc?
 

hllon4whls

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#2
  • May 14, 2005
  • #2
If you are building a drag car to run 10's, here is what I suggest.

393 stroker, 4340 crank, rods, forged pistons. The higher the compression the better. Solid roller cam and matching heads and intake 750-850 demon carb

4.10 gear, 8.8 with a full spool and strange axles. Narrow the rear end and use 9 inch ends instead of c-clip elims.

Mini tub and 28x10.5W tires (or bigger).

Aerospace (cheaper), strange or wilwood disk brakes all the way around

Rims of choice

Subframes that run through the floor and 10-12 point roll cage. Chrome moly if you have the $$. Lighter than mild steel.

Aluminum dash, aluminum racing seat.

c4 with manual reverse valve body, stall matched to the cam.

Electric fans and waterpump, so you wont need any accessory brackets. If you want an alt, you can make a simple bracket.

Hood with scoop facing to the front and sealed to the carb with an airpan (for consistency)

You can build this type of car in a couple of months if you have the cash to feed the speed.
 
D

djlevine

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May 14, 2005
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May 14, 2005
#3
  • May 14, 2005
  • #3
ttt

any thoughts, suggestions??
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
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89
Dallas, GA
May 14, 2005
#4
  • May 14, 2005
  • #4
Full drag car... gut it... remove everything that isn't important to getting it down the track and stopping it by the end. That's for starters, then there is the build up.... wow, I could go for pages.
 
D

djlevine

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May 14, 2005
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May 16, 2005
#5
  • May 16, 2005
  • #5
c'mon guys! what do I need ??

I'm going carb, I'll need a pickup with some big lines? I want to go 5-lug, do I need 87-93 5.0 spindles or 94-95 5.0 spindles?

Thanks!
 
D

Daggar

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Jul 19, 2004
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May 16, 2005
#6
  • May 16, 2005
  • #6
I thought hllon4whls was pretty specific.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
May 16, 2005
#7
  • May 16, 2005
  • #7
Daggar said:
I thought hllon4whls was pretty specific.
Click to expand...
That was my thought too. I did not say anything, but if i were Hllon, I might have taken a bit of offense. He took the time to type out a thoughtful reply and your next post made it seem like he had not even replied at all. He knows what's up.
 

Car RamRod

Banned
Mar 30, 2005
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0
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May 16, 2005
#8
  • May 16, 2005
  • #8
djlevine said:
c'mon guys! what do I need ??

I'm going carb, I'll need a pickup with some big lines? I want to go 5-lug, do I need 87-93 5.0 spindles or 94-95 5.0 spindles?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

for the front you will need 94-?? (99ish i think) spindles. However 94 6cyl spindles are the perfect fit.
 

88_GT_5_oh

Sportin' a turbo 5.0 in Canadistan
Jul 4, 2004
1
0
1
WPG/MB/CA
May 16, 2005
#9
  • May 16, 2005
  • #9
hllon4whls said:
If you are building a drag car to run 10's, here is what I suggest.

393 stroker, 4340 crank, rods, forged pistons. The higher the compression the better. Solid roller cam and matching heads and intake 750-850 demon carb

4.10 gear, 8.8 with a full spool and strange axles. Narrow the rear end and use 9 inch ends instead of c-clip elims.

Mini tub and 28x10.5W tires (or bigger).

Aerospace (cheaper), strange or wilwood disk brakes all the way around

Rims of choice

Subframes that run through the floor and 10-12 point roll cage. Chrome moly if you have the $$. Lighter than mild steel.

Aluminum dash, aluminum racing seat.

c4 with manual reverse valve body, stall matched to the cam.

Electric fans and waterpump, so you wont need any accessory brackets. If you want an alt, you can make a simple bracket.

Hood with scoop facing to the front and sealed to the carb with an airpan (for consistency)

You can build this type of car in a couple of months if you have the cash to feed the speed.
Click to expand...


sounds like a good plan to me
 
D

djlevine

New Member
May 14, 2005
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0
0
May 17, 2005
#10
  • May 17, 2005
  • #10
HISSIN50 said:
That was my thought too. I did not say anything, but if i were Hllon, I might have taken a bit of offense. He took the time to type out a thoughtful reply and your next post made it seem like he had not even replied at all. He knows what's up.
Click to expand...


You're absolutely right... Hilon, I'm sorry!


His plan is very broad, a look at the finished piece and a brief overview of what he thinks should go into the car. I was looking for more specific information.


Anyway, I picked up my 90 LX hatch 2.3 tonight. $150.00! Runs perfectly, too bad it'll be ripped apart in just a matter of time.


David
 

hllon4whls

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May 19, 2005
#11
  • May 19, 2005
  • #11
djlevine said:
You're absolutely right... Hilon, I'm sorry!


His plan is very broad, a look at the finished piece and a brief overview of what he thinks should go into the car. I was looking for more specific information.


Anyway, I picked up my 90 LX hatch 2.3 tonight. $150.00! Runs perfectly, too bad it'll be ripped apart in just a matter of time.


David
Click to expand...

Sorry, I am looking up the torque specs now so I wont leave anything out next time.
Not. What else do you want? Bring the car to my house, drop it off with the cash and give me 3 months. Then you can pick up the car (after I test it a bit).
 
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