What is this gadget? I feel like that filter and mass air combo would make it to long to fit like most inner fender well mounted filters fit since they are usually kinda stubby. The Anderson power pipe would fit bc it makes the filter run parallel inside the fender so it paints forward towards the headlights vs out towards the fender wall. Idk if that made any sense but in my head it did. As for fan spray does it matter if I have electric fans? Are you meaning like that way you don’t blow hot air from the fans towards the filter which would then run hot into the intake?If he has a fender liner he won't have to worry about that. Or....he could build a dam out of sheet metal to keep the fan air off the filter. Testing has proved that it makes a difference. The filter would be at the same level as the factory air box inlet hole ( the big oval one ). Theres also a bolt on adapter available to adapt that pro m to cold air piping on the filter side.
Your car....is a different breed, Mike
Yes,..he means the hot air that the fan is pulling through the radiator ( electric or belt driven)will force your engine to breathe by locating your air inlet inside the engine compartment.What is this gadget? I feel like that filter and mass air combo would make it to long to fit like most inner fender well mounted filters fit since they are usually kinda stubby. The Anderson power pipe would fit bc it makes the filter run parallel inside the fender so it paints forward towards the headlights vs out towards the fender wall. Idk if that made any sense but in my head it did. As for fan spray does it matter if I have electric fans? Are you meaning like that way you don’t blow hot air from the fans towards the filter which would then run hot into the intake?
I wouldnt pay 250 as most shorties seem to come up for around 100 locally. I would hold out for a better dealOk so turns out my super old Mac non flanged shortys are warped, and causing some exhaust leak. So now I’m stuck with buying some new shortys or saying F it and buying new longtubes and an x pipe which will set me back. I’m trying to save a little but well now I’m stuck. I found a nice set of ford Motorsports ceramic shorty headers new, guy wants 250, I could run my old h pipe or buy an X pipe. Was going to see if he would maybe take 200. Or I could drop the cash even though I don’t want to per say right now and buy some long tubes and an X pipe but that’s a big chunk probably I’d say 600 or so. I’ve wanted longtubes but are they really worth the extra cash and pain in the rear? These are the shortys, and longtubes I know what you all will say but I was thinking about the bbk chrome ones bc they are cheaper and thought about scuffing them and coating them with vht flame proof clear ceramic spray.
Yeah man my car is dropped pretty good. Since I’ve done the 5lug swap I have been clearing better over the speed bumps. Idk if that’s bc I adjusted the exhaust and trans cross memeber. That’s one thing I was afraid of though bc they look like they hang pretty low. As far as starter I have a mini in now Incase you don’t remember all that fiasco. Just sucks that new ceramic LTs are 500 for bbk. Plus I’d need the new X or H pipe and o2 extenders. Idk maybe I’ll just get new shortys unless I can find a decent set of LTs used. How often can flanged sets possibly warp?The long tube headers are excellent for the low end grunt you want off the line, you have to think about how low your car is, some have issues with dragging on speed bumps and such, I have long tubes and at stock height I have no problems, a mini starter, I have a 93 starter on mine, is a better choice for clearance with lts, also I would not get chrome, they don't last, ceramic coated (not the painted on stuff) from the header maker is worth the extra bucks. I like long tubes, you likely will not even notice the difference, most go with shorties
Ok so I know there’s all this stuff about back pressure. So I found a guy that has some pretty new ceramic bbk longtubes and a Bassani x pipe. He can’t remember if they were 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 and whether the x pipe is 2.5 or 3 in. Now let’s say the headers end up being 1 3/4 and the x pipe is 3 in. How would this affect my car power wise? I’m no where near 4-500 hp, so would this end up being worse for my car currently?I don't know about the warp issues, mine are the individual flanged, and yes I now remember that bit of trouble with the starter, just get the shorties and be done with it, it's not a issue to fret over and the difference in the money is the main concern, LT's do have a 'sound' to them in my opinion but the ground clearance thing can be big. Like I said, the difference in torque won't be noticed.
Lol just thought I’d throw it out there!! Anyways he is asking 400 for both the longtubes and x pipe and they look clean. Said he had them on for about 1000 miles and swapped to a t-56 and was having issues with them hitting the clutch fork so he bought a different set. I’d say it’s a good deal!Were you serious about the 'back pressure' comment?
if the money is right get 'em. If the x pipe is 3" thats ok, you can still run 2 1/2" tail pipes. You likely will never notice the ' off the line' torque loss, if anything I think it may be only like 5-600 rpm higher.
just the opinion of a guy who may or may not know anything about it.
Read this if you have not already: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/stop-saying-car-exhausts-need-back-pressure.902035/
What would I look for in regards to taking the ceramic coating off?I'd say you could clean them....id try some lacquer thinner first. Only test it low in case it messes with the finish. After that you could take some fine rubbing compound and get after it...Ceramic coating is pretty tough..it should let you rub the stains off with some elbow grease. Just be aware of removing the finish.
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