Belt Help, PLEASE

I've got a '95 GT... The Smog pump is shot on my car, i mean SHOT, it sounds like ASS! anyways, I don't need the Smog pump to get an inspection sticker, so i'm just going to chunk the thing, i know how to reroute the belt, thats not a problem, BUT i don't know what size belt to run when exempting the Smog pump, can anyone help me?
Also, the AC doesn't work, I don't feel like fixing it, and the Mustang is not my daily driver, it's my toy, so i'm just going to get rid of the AC also, is it possible to delete both the AC and the Smog pump without running delete pulleys, or if i wanted to get rid of them both, i can run the Smog pump with a rerouted belt, and buy JUST the AC delete pulley? what are your takes on this? do you know what size belt i need? There's no point in arguing the removal of both items, as the car gets driven MAYBE 30 miles in a month. and when the Baby gets here, it'll be even less than that. can anyone help me?
 
You can use a fox smog pump (ALOT cheaper) if you want to keep it, you will have to swap pullies, and the rubber tube will have to be moved alittle, not hard.

here is the absolute best belt/pullie diagram I have ever seen.
 

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1TallMF said:
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+1 :nice:
That diagram answers alot of questions on this forum, nice find!

I agree, I sent it to my house (as i'm at work now) to keep for future reference, and also printed it to add to my binder of '94-'95 Specific Info i've acquired throughout the years... Now i just gotta put the pulleys on, and get the new belt... WOOHOO... It shows me the answer to both of my questions, I can delete the Smog pump, AND AC at the same time...:nice:
 
The easiest way I have found to find the belt size is to run a string around the pullies and then measure it.

You'll probably have to get a couple belts to get the perfect one BUT autoparts stores will take them back.
 
Along the same lines but not in the diagram.

I was searching for a belt that only bypasses the A/C unit as the diagram does not have this.

I believe it was mootang or hissin (maybe somone else sorry), but they found this A/C bypass belt to be 91.5 in length. Again it may be alittle off but is deff. in the ballpark as a great starting point.

Just thought I should add this here as I didnt find any threads in my search that had both the diagram and A/C only length.
 
My belt question actually turned out as bad ju ju... On my way home from work this morning, i downshifted into 2nd and my belt popped, I knew it as soon as it happened, because the power steering was shot, the battery gauge pegged out, and the temp gauge was raising quickly. I was able to muscle the car home and into the driveway, popped the hood, and the belt threw about a 2 inch section and split... Guess i'll go take some line and get an estimated guess on what size to run, i might go ahead and bypass the AC and Smog pump while i'm at it. damn bad ju ju...:nonono:
 
I ran just A/C delete and ran a 93.0" belt with unknown brand underdrive pulleys.

I also tried bypassing the smog pump, and had problems. The problem is that the tensioner cannot work correctly without the smog pump. If you look at the diagram, when the smog pump is bypassed, the belt is almost straight between the alt and crank. The tensioner just deflects it a little. This creates only a small variation in belt length, as opposed to the stock routing, in which the tensioner has a much larger effect on belt length. When trying to find the right length belt for smog delete, I tried a belt (don't remember the size) and it was too short and really hard just to get on, then a belt that was only 1/2" longer was too long. The tensioner just cannot work properly given the changed geometry. It can't take up as much slack as it should and was designed to. I gave up on smog delete and just used the smog pump as an 'idler pulley' and enjoyed the properly working tensioner. IIRC, the smog pump only uses a tiny bit of HP anyway, and that was cheaper than a smog pump dummy pulley.

Rick
 
rockin_rick said:
I ran just A/C delete and ran a 93.0" belt with unknown brand underdrive pulleys.

I also tried bypassing the smog pump, and had problems. The problem is that the tensioner cannot work correctly without the smog pump. If you look at the diagram, when the smog pump is bypassed, the belt is almost straight between the alt and crank. The tensioner just deflects it a little. This creates only a small variation in belt length, as opposed to the stock routing, in which the tensioner has a much larger effect on belt length. When trying to find the right length belt for smog delete, I tried a belt (don't remember the size) and it was too short and really hard just to get on, then a belt that was only 1/2" longer was too long. The tensioner just cannot work properly given the changed geometry. It can't take up as much slack as it should and was designed to. I gave up on smog delete and just used the smog pump as an 'idler pulley' and enjoyed the properly working tensioner. IIRC, the smog pump only uses a tiny bit of HP anyway, and that was cheaper than a smog pump dummy pulley.

Rick

I had a buddy back home that ran a re-routed belt a week or so after he got the car to delete the Smog pump, he had a '95, and is the original owner, so it's possible... as for the reason i'm doing it, isn't because i want the HP gain, it's because the bearing was shot, and it was making a horrific metal on metal grinding. as for deleting the AC, my AC has been shot since i got the car back to Norfolk from Baltimore, so instead of spending the money to fix an AC i'm not going to use,seeing as the car is a toy,and not a daily driver. so i re-routed the belt, fit pretty snug and i know it'll loosen a bit. as for the belt, in order to re-route it, minus the AC, and the smog pump, you need a 82" belt. as for my car, i'm looking into gears, and a DSS 306, Long tubes, X pipe and trying to decide on what muffler, along with a set of 31 Spline axles, and a TKO 500.