Last nite I went out to my buddy's to bleed/flush the brakes on the cobra because they basically had one good stop in them and then where crap till they cooled off. This service had probably never been done on the cobra till now. What a difference this made, instead of dark brown fluid and air bubbles its nice and clear and air bubble free, the pedal feel is a 1000x's better YAHOO! I cant wait for this seasons maiden voyage! For those thinking about doing this dont think twice about it, as Larry says GIT ER DONE!
Best $6 and an hour spent!
- Thread starter slytherin
- Start date
Good point, its one of those things that alot of people neglect. Bleeding the brake system is on my check list for things to be done before the car is back on the road. It has 128,000 and I know its never been done, the fluid looks like brown mud, its way over due.
SWYZ721
Member
95CobraMike
Active Member
slytherin said:
your manual would be a good place to start......if not, they sell kits w/ instructions at most autopart stores
James
94 GT VERT AODE
Ported stock intake, 4.10's, shift kit, Granatelli MAF, BBK 70mm TB, 14*, BBK adj fpr, 2 chamber flows, BBK O/R H pipe, BBK underdrive pulleys, MSD 6A, Walbro 190 pump, k&n with silencer removed, sub-frame connectors, fan switch mod, 160* tstat , weight reduction
91LX_5L
Founding Member
I think mine need them bad. Im gonna do them with a friend on his car and mine at the same time.
Mine is very dark and it smells like fish...that cant be good???
Mine is very dark and it smells like fish...that cant be good???
Labora
Founding Member
Man yall our lazy it's easy and makes all the diff in the world! I do mine every 3 months or less. Of course I autox so that is why I just recently got speed bleeders makes the job go by very quickly and you can do it by yourself. 
Labora said:
I dont think it has to do w/ being lazy but more to do w/ one of those things that are just over looked. For instance take a reg person whos not really into cars and just drives an everday type of car but gets the oil changed every 3,000 miles on the dot but not once ever changes the transmission fluid.
maypo59
New Member
Labora said:Man yall our lazy it's easy and makes all the diff in the world! I do mine every 3 months or less. Of course I autox so that is why I just recently got speed bleeders makes the job go by very quickly and you can do it by yourself.
speed bleeders are the best thing since sliced bread.
go-stang5.0
New Member
WOW! Striped5.0 your running a paxton on the car and you have 11 yr old brake fluid. 
I have boiled my brake fluid once (it was 2yr. old ford HD fluid) doing some late night autocrossing. 
Since then I have gotten some cheap but good racing brake fluid (it's Ate Blue -do a google search, you will find good info) and speed bleeders. $20 bux for the bleeders from jegs and $8 bux per liter (1 liter does the whole system but buy an extra to keep around) + shipping for the fluid from apexperformance.com. Start at the wheel furthest away from the Master Cylinder and work your way closer to it (drivers side front being last). Oh and this stuff is dyed blue so when all the old stuff is out you will get a medium blue color. Thats when you know your done and it's time to switch wheels. This way you don't waste brake fluid trying to guess if you got all the old stuff out. They also make a gold verson (clear like reg. brake fluid) and when you flush out the blue you use the clear so again the contrasting colors help you know when your done. Although the dry boiling point is not as high as Ford HD which is 550 deg. (this stuff is 536 deg.) that difference is neglible but the Ate fluid is DOT 5.1 (not silicone) and MUCH,MUCH less hydroscopic than DOT 3 fluid. So it will last longer (they say up to 2 yrs. in a non-competition car where as you should change reg. fluid ANUALLY). It also has a much higher wet boiling point 425 deg. compared to any DOT 3's (including the Ford HD) 200 something deg.'s. You dont have to get fancy hard to find brakefluid if you don't want, I just recommend this stuff cuz its cheap and very good for competition use and lasts long. If not then at least get some speed bleeders and flush your fluid anually guys. If you boil your fluid your car will not stop and you may die. Personally I would not risk my life for $8.00 (or even less if you buy the cheap brands) but thats up to you. Sorry this was so long but I thought it might be informative. -Robin
I have boiled my brake fluid once (it was 2yr. old ford HD fluid) doing some late night autocrossing. Since then I have gotten some cheap but good racing brake fluid (it's Ate Blue -do a google search, you will find good info) and speed bleeders. $20 bux for the bleeders from jegs and $8 bux per liter (1 liter does the whole system but buy an extra to keep around) + shipping for the fluid from apexperformance.com. Start at the wheel furthest away from the Master Cylinder and work your way closer to it (drivers side front being last). Oh and this stuff is dyed blue so when all the old stuff is out you will get a medium blue color. Thats when you know your done and it's time to switch wheels. This way you don't waste brake fluid trying to guess if you got all the old stuff out. They also make a gold verson (clear like reg. brake fluid) and when you flush out the blue you use the clear so again the contrasting colors help you know when your done. Although the dry boiling point is not as high as Ford HD which is 550 deg. (this stuff is 536 deg.) that difference is neglible but the Ate fluid is DOT 5.1 (not silicone) and MUCH,MUCH less hydroscopic than DOT 3 fluid. So it will last longer (they say up to 2 yrs. in a non-competition car where as you should change reg. fluid ANUALLY). It also has a much higher wet boiling point 425 deg. compared to any DOT 3's (including the Ford HD) 200 something deg.'s. You dont have to get fancy hard to find brakefluid if you don't want, I just recommend this stuff cuz its cheap and very good for competition use and lasts long. If not then at least get some speed bleeders and flush your fluid anually guys. If you boil your fluid your car will not stop and you may die. Personally I would not risk my life for $8.00 (or even less if you buy the cheap brands) but thats up to you. Sorry this was so long but I thought it might be informative. -Robingo-stang5.0 said:
Its only been on since last summer and even then the car wouldnet go past 4,000 RPM's b/c of clutch issues. In a few wks the car will be running right and all the bugs fixed and brakes bled, then its time to really get on it
