Best Bang For My Buck :> $5,000

mustangman9812 · May 30, 2008

Sorry Wrong Amount In Topic It $4,000 read below Thanks

Ok I have been on Stangnet for a while (now 4 years). And as you know i have a 98 Mustang GT w/mods below. Well I am going to put $4,000 bucks on the car and i want the best bang for my buck so here is what I was thinking of doing. And comments and suggestions are welcomed, I just want the most power for my money. Thanks

Mods As Of Now:

98 Mustang GT - 4R70W - Silver Metallic
106,000 miles, but really about 93,000 or so because of speedo off 10mph b/c of 4.10 gear so odometer goes faster anyway.
-----Mods-----
FRPP A/C Delete Kit
BBK Underdrive Pulleys
JLT Cold Air Intake
Zex Nitrous EFI Wet Kit (100hp)
Custom O/R X-Pipe
Dynomax Bullett Mufflers
B&M Hammer Shifter, Shift Kit, & Pan
FRPP 4.10's
Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
Maxspeed Lowering Springs

Ok What I am Planning

I have a 03 GT Shortblock w/10,000 miles on it so this is what i am using for the build instead of my 106,000 mile NPI bottom end

---Mods----
MMR Stage 2 Ported PI Heads w/Stock Cams ($1,599.00)
Flowtech Long Tube Headers

How would this be for Bang For My Buck? Remember I have Nitrous but i am holding the shot back because of the non forged pistons and I only have $4000 so I can get a forged short block because if i did i couldnt buy anything else lol. And one more question is aftermarket cams worth the extra $1000 bucks including springs on those heads or will it run just fine?

Thanks A Bunch! Let Me Know!!!!

LaserSVT · May 30, 2008

Sell your GT and buy a Cobra

JK everybody, put the flame throwrs down......... SRT pull your pants back up!

Well PI heads and a used Vortech or any nice used blower and ditch the nawz dawg. But thats just me, id rather have the power there all the time

mustangman9812 · May 30, 2008

LOL Thanks for the comment but i have over $1,200 bucks in my nitrous kit and i love it so sorry no blower for me lol

geoffsgt · May 30, 2008

Forged bottom end with high compression pistons and more spray.

What exactly do you want to do with the car though?

CobraRed_96_GT · May 30, 2008

Stock PI heads with oversized valves on your NPI block.
Stage 1 (or 2 if you have a DD) N/A cams
Valve springs
Larger injectors
Shift kit + 3400 stall TC
Long Tube headers (not flowtech, even though blackfang will protest)

If you shop around that's around $2800, and you'll be at higher compression which spray loves. Yet this only works if your piston rings are in good standing which they should be

geoffsgt · May 30, 2008

Wouldn't the best "bang for your buck" be getting a forged rotating assembly to allow you to spray more? And picking whatever CR you want in the process.

SRT Handz · May 30, 2008

Buy the entire MM catalog.....

CobraRed_96_GT · May 30, 2008

geoffsgt said:
Wouldn't the best "bang for your buck" be getting a forged rotating assembly to allow you to spray more? And picking whatever CR you want in the process.

True, if he can do that himself. Otherwise labor is in the $1600+ region.

SRT Handz · May 30, 2008

Hey LaserSVT, why do you list your HP for you SN95 in your sig but not the Torque?

BurningRubber · May 30, 2008

Spray the motor as it is now (NPI). Buy your PI heads, even cams if you can budget it.

Build the spare motor you have, forged rods/pistons.

If and when your non-PI gives up the ghost, swap in fresh forged motor and continue to spray.

SRT Handz · May 30, 2008

BurningRubber said:
Spray the motor as it is now (NPI). Buy your PI heads, even cams if you can budget it.

Build the spare motor you have, forged rods/pistons.

If and when your non-PI gives up the ghost, swap in fresh forged motor and continue to spray.

Suspension>power

LaserSVT · May 30, 2008

SRT Handz said:
Hey LaserSVT, why do you list your HP for you SN95 in your sig but not the Torque?

Because the torque was zero When I bought the car it had a dyno sheet from a shop in Houston and it was 299.8 rwhp and I rememberd that cause it was just a hair shy of 300. The torque I have no clue cause now I cant find my folder with all the reciepts and stuff. About 6 months ago I lost it and it really tickes me off cause I saved a reciept for every last little damn part

SRT Handz · May 30, 2008

LaserSVT said:
Because the torque was zero When I bought the car it had a dyno sheet from a shop in Houston and it was 299.8 rwhp and I rememberd that cause it was just a hair shy of 300. The torque I have no clue cause now I cant find my folder with all the reciepts and stuff. About 6 months ago I lost it and it really tickes me off cause I saved a reciept for every last little damn part

You sad because a NPI 2V has more torque than a 4V?

i remember when i dyno'd my car stock with catback and it had 299RWTQ.

"Horsepower Sells Cars, Torque Wins Races" - Carroll Shelby

LaserSVT · May 30, 2008

SRT Handz said:
You sad because a NPI 2V has more torque than a 4V?

i remember when i dyno'd my car stock with catback and it had 299RWTQ.

"Horsepower Sells Cars, Torque Wins Races" - Carroll Shelby

No the torque was in the mid 300s I just dont remember where
The saying I always used in car sales was people buy horse power but drive torque

mustangman9812 · May 30, 2008

Thanks Guys! Yeh I can do all the installs myself so install cost are not an issue.

And I aint going to lie buying a used blower is really tough not to do right now lol

SRT Handz · May 30, 2008

LaserSVT said:
No the torque was in the mid 300s I just dont remember where
The saying I always used in car sales was people buy horse power but drive torque

Torque in the Mid 300's? BS

I am willing to bet you car puts out between 250-260 RWTQ

LucasMelo · May 30, 2008

The way I see you have two options.

1. Buy a forged bottom end, maybe mmr600 or 800, so that you can up the nitrous, and buy whatever else you can with the rest of the money.

2.Sell your nitrous, buy pi heads and intake, install it on the 03 shortblock and buy a mongoose kit(I like this one much better, 370rwhp all day long)!!!

If you decide to stay with nitrous you'll have to go forged to get the "best bang for your buck"

mustangman9812 · May 30, 2008

LucasMelo said:
The way I see you have two options.

1. Buy a forged bottom end, maybe mmr600 or 800, so that you can up the nitrous, and buy whatever else you can with the rest of the money.

2.Sell your nitrous, buy pi heads and intake, install it on the 03 shortblock and buy a mongoose kit(I like this one much better, 370rwhp all day long)!!!

If you decide to stay with nitrous you'll have to go forged to get the "best bang for your buck"

I like the way you think , But why not a used blower and keep the spray and run a 50 shot to cool intake temps at track?

Fastwrx15 · May 30, 2008

SRT Handz said:
Suspension>power

Good point Chris.

I would install your 10K mile 03 shortblock and buy a MPH
Mongoose Vortech kit that will give you plenty of power all
the time after your sell your nitrous kit.

EPIK · May 31, 2008

SRT Handz said:
Suspension>power

Great advice I agree 110%

SRT Handz said:
You sad because a NPI 2V has more torque than a 4V?

i remember when i dyno'd my car stock with catback and it had 299RWTQ.

"Horsepower Sells Cars, Torque Wins Races" - Carroll Shelby

Yeah, but what was the HP? Had to be around 200rwhp at best...

LaserSVT said:
No the torque was in the mid 300s I just dont remember where
The saying I always used in car sales was people buy horse power but drive torque

SRT Handz said:
Torque in the Mid 300's? BS

I am willing to bet you car puts out between 250-260 RWTQ

The tq would be somewhere around 275ish I would think in stock form....

to MustangMan9812.... I recommend a PI swap, LT's, o/r midpipe, Xcal2 custom dynotune, drag radials,& some good suspension to help u hook up.... For suspension, Maximum Motorsports lower control arms, subframe connectors, & some good shocks & strurs will make a world of difference.....

Best Bang For My Buck :> $5,000

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