Interior and Upholstery Best Brand of Top for First Time

1989FoxFan

Member
Jan 19, 2020
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Michigan
Hello, I was debating about replacing the top in my mustang and this is the first time I have ever replaced a top. I would prefer a glass window because I have read about the plastic windows yellowing and I prefer glass to begin with. I am looking for a brand that is an easier too to install since it is my first time

Best Regards
 
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Replacing the top isn't too bad. I usually order from convertibletopguys.com

I recommend replacing the cables. One on each side. Getting a roll of black gorilla tape ( for the front header and to cover sharp edges. Use stainless steel staples. Get new tack strips.

When doing tops I usually try to reuse the factory padding. Most top kits will have a sleeve for each side and thin foam. I like the tighter plusher look of using the foam over the original padding wrapped in the new vinyl sleeves. Make sure you pull all the staples out. I use cutting pliers for that. Be really careful with weatherstrip you plan to reuse. Sometimes they are two sided taped or glued on. ( PITA ). They aren't supposed to be....but people did it anyways.

A heat gun comes in handy. You don't want to heat it up too much but it helps to warm it a little to get the top to latch after putting the new top on. Its supposed to be tight and will relax with a couple days in the sun.

The hardest part is keeping waves out of the corners of the top at the quarter panels. This has a lot to do with positioning on the tack rails and shimming them.

Haartz makes really good tops. The best in my opinion.

I've been doing tops on many different types of cars for 20yrs. The canvas cloth ones tend to start to leak at the fold points. The old Ambersol shaving cream in the navy blue can is the best cleaner I've ever used. That stuff is cheap at Walmart. It cleans and conditions vinyl well. I spray it on and agitate with soft brush. Then I rinse with water and mild soap...then use a vinyl conditioner. Works on door panels and dashes too.
 
Replacing the top isn't too bad. I usually order from convertibletopguys.com

I recommend replacing the cables. One on each side. Getting a roll of black gorilla tape ( for the front header and to cover sharp edges. Use stainless steel staples. Get new tack strips.

When doing tops I usually try to reuse the factory padding. Most top kits will have a sleeve for each side and thin foam. I like the tighter plusher look of using the foam over the original padding wrapped in the new vinyl sleeves. Make sure you pull all the staples out. I use cutting pliers for that. Be really careful with weatherstrip you plan to reuse. Sometimes they are two sided taped or glued on. ( PITA ). They aren't supposed to be....but people did it anyways.

A heat gun comes in handy. You don't want to heat it up too much but it helps to warm it a little to get the top to latch after putting the new top on. Its supposed to be tight and will relax with a couple days in the sun.

The hardest part is keeping waves out of the corners of the top at the quarter panels. This has a lot to do with positioning on the tack rails and shimming them.

Haartz makes really good tops. The best in my opinion.

I've been doing tops on many different types of cars for 20yrs. The canvas cloth ones tend to start to leak at the fold points. The old Ambersol shaving cream in the navy blue can is the best cleaner I've ever used. That stuff is cheap at Walmart. It cleans and conditions vinyl well. I spray it on and agitate with soft brush. Then I rinse with water and mild soap...then use a vinyl conditioner. Works on door panels and dashes too.
should I go for the EZ-On or the Robbins top. They both use Haartz
 
I have done 3 in the last few years. For me the Electron brand fit the best.

aaRwL5.jpg


This top on the car below is about 7 years old now. Still looks good.

6TR3o8.jpg


Chris
 
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The Ez-on top has marks already on the back side of the top. They are usually pretty close to where they need to be. I've used Ez-on tops many many times.
 
The one I did had marks on several places , and it made it work out very well. Without them I would have had bigger problems, It had holes all around the bottom of the window piece that aligned with the screws around the rear deck. I just plugged them in with small adjustments.
 
In those pics you'll notice in 92 they got rid of the top rib and staples above the back window. That strip isn't really necessary. The window staples to the bow below it. Sometimes you can lower the top and remove and restaple the window there to tighten it up. Too tight and eventually the vinyl will seperate from the rear glass ( on a weathered top...not brand new ). Another adjustment is to remove some of the shims ( washers ) from behind the bottom tack strip below the glass. This will pull the window further to the rear and can help with wrinkles there too. The only other option is to tighten it up with cycles of heat and cold water. This isn't for the faint of heart because it can make the fabric brittle or burn it if not done right.
 
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