Best crate engine for the money?

I like the Ford Racing Gt40x engine.
Not a max power engine, but it's reliable, makes about 285rwhp with a gt40 intake and 65mm TB.
I think also they have a 12,000 mile warranty.

Could you put a more powerful engine together for the same money? Probably.
The draw of a crate engine is the fact that it's quick and easy.

Ford Racing offers a 347 shortblock built around the new Boss block with all forged parts. That would be a great foundation, especially if you plan on eventually adding boost.

im in the same boat and since noone has replied to my own thread about listening to my engine... im thinking ill have to go crate also

so what kind of prices can one expect for a crate motor? links please:

Welcome to :SNSign:

Any of the big vendors, like CHP, or DSS sell quality stuff. DSS did have a bad rep for a bit that seemed to hurt their image, but from what I've heard, their quality has much improved. Rick 91GT, a member on here (RNH Performance) also sells great engines and many people on here are running his stuff with nothing, but great things to say about both him, and the engines he's built for them.


Also, shopping thread - moved to talk.

I just checked summit for the price on the gt40x engine, $4500+. So forget that idea, at $3200 which it used to be, that was fair.
At this new price, you can do much better for less.

I am patiently waiting for my 331 stroker motor to arrive from M&R engines out of california. The engine with all forged internals and AirFlowResearch heads cost me $4100. It will also have a pro-m mass air meter, 30# injectors, Holley Systemax intake, BBK headers, polished valve covers and oil pan, and new timing cover. It is expected to make between 450 and 500 hp. With everything i've listed here, i've got a little over $6000 tied up into it now. Their phone number is 818-500-4990 if you're interested. Hope this helps.

Try joe heck racing.com great people tha do great work

1 BADSOFTTOP said:

Try joe heck racing.com great people tha do great work

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Joeheck racing does not do any work.
It is all Subbed out to bigdaddy performance. Which happens to be at the same location, but is 2 completely different entities.

best crate engine for the buck is gonna be an 03-04 cobra motor

If you are absolutely going forced induction and plan on running a decent h/c/I setup as well, just do a good rebuild with the stock internals. I see no point in upgrading the stock rotating assembly (assuming you don't need an overbore) when they will outlast the stock block in regards to h/p and torque.

If you plan on upgrading the block however…none of the above applies.

1996Z15 said:

Thanks for the reply; I had always heard that the stock blocks don't take too kindly to boost and have a tendency to split, is that a myth or fact?
I was also leaning towards the crate motor for time reasons; seeing as this is my daily driver I figured I could continue to drive the car until the motor showed up and then, in a matter of a day or two, I could have the crate motor installed and be back in business. A rebuild of my stock motor would leave me without transportation for too long.

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It's not a problem with boost itself, but rather of the hp/torque limits of the block. I'm not sure of any other choices you have if you are time constrained…but a word of caution: Don't pay any extra money for assembled shortblocks that claim to support insane horsepower. Just stick with a good, basic shortblock with some forged rods and pistons and a good set of moly rings. You don't need any crazy fancy machining or screw in freeze plugs.

1996Z15 said:

Thanks for the reply; I had always heard that the stock blocks don't take too kindly to boost and have a tendency to split, is that a myth or fact?
I was also leaning towards the crate motor for time reasons; seeing as this is my daily driver I figured I could continue to drive the car until the motor showed up and then, in a matter of a day or two, I could have the crate motor installed and be back in business. A rebuild of my stock motor would leave me without transportation for too long.

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Most seem to agree that 500 rwhp is pushing the limits of the stock block; 450 rwhp is about as high as most want to go, but you aren't guaranteed anything even at those levels. There is nothing wrong with the stock rotating assembly; it's the block that gives out at higher power levels.

It all depends what your goals are. I bought a used 150K mile engine out of an '87 mustang for $100, disassembled it, brought it to the local machine shop and had the shortblock rebuilt using the stock rods & forged pistons (bores showed no significant wear even with 150K miles) had new cam/rod/main bearings put in, new freeze plugs, and new ARP fasteners holding everything together. With my machine shop assembling the bottom end, my total for machine work and assembly was under $1,000. If you have a reputable machine shop nearby, you can build what you want, and save a good bit of money. With about $1,000 in the shortblock, roughly $900 in the heads, $300 for my used intake, $100 for 24 lb. injectors, $100 for a used MAF, $100 for a used t-body, another $700 in cam and valvetrain components, and say another $300 in water pump, oil pump, gaskets and miscellaneous fasteners I come up with about $3500 for everything. Keep in mind that crate motors aren't going to come with an intake, or any of the other intake/fuel injection components.

What I have should put down about 280 rwhp once I tune it, and is a supercharger/nitrous/turbo away from 400-500+ rwhp. The basic question you have to ask yourself is what you really want. If you are going to want 450+ rwhp, maybe you should look into having a motor built using an aftermarket block and rotating assembly by somebody like Rick from RNH. If you want to go quick on the 'cheap', and aren't concerned about monsterous HP numbers, I'd look at doing a budget rebuild of a stock shortblock and going from there.

I did this engine on the side, and kept driving the car in the meantime with the tired stocker. No reason you can't go out and pick up a decent used longblock and have it rebuilt while driving your current car as is. 5.0 HO motors are still plentiful in junkyards and on the classifieds.

If I had it to do over, and was in more of a time crunch I would have probably just bought the Trick Flow kit that includes heads, intake, cam and valvetrain components for a very reasonable price. If you have some time, shop for bargains on used parts and go that route.