Best gear for the 1/4 mile?

May 20, 2005
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Arkansas
I've got 3.73's in my car and my buddy (you know who you are lol) has 4.10's in his. Both '02 N/A 5-spd GT's with similar mods.

Which will pull better for the 1/4 mile? 3.73 or 4.10?.. His do pull a LOT better in the 1000ft, but I was just wondering if they pull just as well thru the 1/4 compared to my 3.73's.

I know i know.. don't fear the gear.. you can't go wrong with 4.10's, blah blah blah.. put all that bs aside... which will pull better from 1/8-1/4 mile?

I know the 4.10's are lower and do pull harder down low, but do they pull just as hard up top thru the 1/4 or not?..

My 3.73's seem to pull harder thru 3rd and 4th than in 1st and 2nd. I'm shifting into 4th about 50ft before the end of our 1000ft track. Will they pull harder and gain mph than 4.10's once i'm in 4th gear?

Not bashing 4.10's or his car, he's a damn good driver and he handed my ass to me several times this past weekend.. Even with less mods, but it happens and I was happy for him :nice:
 
03ghoststang said:
well you will be finishing in 4th right in the middle of it in the 1/4 and he (i know who it is) will finish at the end of 4th but it will be a close race

I think he said he was getting near the top end of 4th in the 1000ft, altho there's only 320 more feet, woudl he have to shift to 5th?..

Should my gears pull harder in 3rd and 4th than they do in 1st and 2nd?.. as in, gain mph quicker
 
there is no one best gear. gearing is all based on your setup.

for a stock gt optimum gearing would proably be 4.30.

the whole idea behind it is be close to reline in 1:1 by the end of the quarter mile.

tire size, redline, trap speed, all figure into this.

all thing being equal though a 3.73 gt will get it lunch eaten but a 4.10 gt in the quarter mile. there is a big ratio gap between 4th and 5th so I don't know how it works out if you go father than that. if you would real him in at all past 115 or so.
 
That's what I was figuring, but I just wasn't sure.

I'm running 285/35/18's with mods in my sig.. he's running 255/45/17 with o/r x-pipe, catback, accufab 75mm tb/plenum, 4.10's, mgw orange handle (he will have K&N FIPK by then)..

So.... how much more will I lack?
 
he also has 17's instead of 18's. little less undrug wieght and rotating mass.

going to be hard to overcome both of those disadvantages if he can drive.

you could alwasy get a set of 15's and some drag radials for the track and eat his lunch.

short story long you will need more traction or more power most likely to beat him in the quarter mile. stage 1 cams, longtubes would be a couple things to close the gap if you did not want to take the traction approach.
 
well.. I know they're 18's and all, but they were surprisingly light to me when the tires were off a couple weeks ago. They seem to be about the same weight as the stock 17's, if that's possible.. but maybe i'm wrong :shrug:

I didnt figure i'd need that much on him. Based on a few of our time slips, he gains mph on me and I gain ET on him. It's a really weird deal, not quite sure what's goin on with that. He took some of the time slips and did the math and I was slightly pulling on him while his mph was going up in a couple runs, and in another couple runs he was pulling on me.

He's gonna have MM lower control arms on by then, so that's gonna hurt me some. He's running all-season Sumi's, but he can drive like a MOFO!! He pulled a 2.05 60ft on those tires.. My best 60ft was a 2.02 on some crappy 265/35/18's (cheap, nearly bald tires).. Not making excuses, just letting you guys gather more info to make more educated guesses :D

I just didnt think i'd need all that much to catch back up. I've got some hp on him, but he's got that gear gap on me.. It actually seems to even out, imo
 
Unless he has ALOT of things your not listing he will be right at the top of 4th in the 1/4 mile. Now if he had a power adder like Coughnitrouscough then yeah he might have to hit 5th in the 1/4 if he uses a stock revlimiter
 
well wheel wieght depends on what wheel he is running as weel. chances are his are a bit lighter. and it is not huge it is just another little tiny advantage. the control arms should help him a hair as well.

I am sure just the 3.73 to 4.10 is .1-.2 his way. now if you can somehow make that up on your 60ft great.

then agian to me win or lose it is all in fun. go run them if he wipes track with you. pick a mod and come back swinging.

you see what I am saying though he has a bit of a drag racing edge on you. you need better 60' or more hp to make him see your tailight ever time IMO.

cheapest options IMO would be

DR, longtubes, or cams. or you could always just use a very light bit of spray and eat his lunch evertime. would not need much. I am not a huge NOS fan but if it is just light shot every now and then just not to get beat not a bad thing. I used to run a 100 shot on my chevelle just in case. did not use it very often but I don't like to lose and sometimes you just know someone has an edge on you.
 
hognutz said:
well wheel wieght depends on what wheel he is running as weel. chances are his are a bit lighter. and it is not huge it is just another little tiny advantage. the control arms should help him a hair as well.

I am sure just the 3.73 to 4.10 is .1-.2 his way. now if you can somehow make that up on your 60ft great.

then agian to me win or lose it is all in fun. go run them if he wipes track with you. pick a mod and come back swinging.

you see what I am saying though he has a bit of a drag racing edge on you. you need better 60' or more hp to make him see your tailight ever time IMO.

cheapest options IMO would be

DR, longtubes, or cams. or you could always just use a very light bit of spray and eat his lunch evertime. would not need much. I am not a huge NOS fan but if it is just light shot every now and then just not to get beat not a bad thing. I used to run a 100 shot on my chevelle just in case. did not use it very often but I don't like to lose and sometimes you just know someone has an edge on you.


I hear what you're saying.. We only go out there and race for fun, i was just wondering how much of an advantage/disadvantage with our gears in the 1/4 mile.

I just figured I'd have some ground to make up somehow with the gear differences between the cars, but I guess we'll see when the time comes.

With our 60ft times, it was kinda awkward as well. His 60ft was better than mine sometimes, but I would end up taking him by .1 or so. It was a VERY VERY close race everytime and that's what I enjoy. I hate wiping up the track with a good friend. There's nothing like a close neck and neck race :D

I'm not worried about who wins really, I just wondered what the difference was before we got out there and raced for a while.

I'm just out there to have fun and see what kind of times I can cut, whether I win or lose :nice:
 
Jackie Chan said:
4.30s for an NA stang would be the best gear IMO.

But like already said, that all depends on your setup and goals

That's a lot of gear! :eek:

I had a buddy with a '94 GT 5-spd with 4.30's and it just didn't feel right, imo.. but then again, it was a pushrod and not a modular
 
look at it this way, the most you are going to trap with only bolt ons and a light car(3100-3200lbs with driver) on slicks is in the 107-109 range which will put you around 6k(on a real tach). to get any quicker NA, you need cams, so the 4.30s will be perfect for a drag setup
 
if you guys are both on street tires, I think you can take him. He's gonna have to work harder to launch with out roasting those tires....

Lot's of people that have 4.10's and race strictly quarter mile want to switch to 3.73's
 
well if you are really a drag racer you fix you traction problems.

anyone who wants to switch back to 3.73 on a car due to lack of traction just needs to find better tires, spring, rate, just supention setup in general.

If you like drag racing car setup is so key. People just igonre it.

if really competitive My .02 also ditch some wieght. I mean if I were neck and neck with someont. my spare would come out. my back seat, my subs, my passenger seat. then again I don't like to lose if it is preventable. all this stuff comes out in minutes and goes back in the same.

I learned this back in highshool in my 69 camaro when I was poor. ditched the inner fenders, bough a used glass hood, no spare, no jack, no sound deading, if I did not need it ditched it. car was light. nice cheap lincoln locker. I used to eat people lunches in that POS. it was light.
 
He's Dead. UPS man just stopped by. ;)

As far as 60' times go, I've cut a 2.05 on All-Season Sumitomo HTR+,, 245/45/17. Not the greatest, but with the gears and those tires, I'll take it. Now with the LCA's, I'll be disappointed in myself if I dont pull a 1.9.

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Now, which TOB should I get with the McLeod? FRPP, or McLeod?
 

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