Best head gaskets to ensure no leakage

[Credzba]

I had a previous post about overheating my 289.
I have replaced the head gaskets 3 times (in 2 years), and paid a guy to replace them once.

Leaking again.

The block is bored 60 over, so I am sure that accentuates the problem.
I've had the heads checked (they were fine), but I really dont wanna pull the block, and if its warped, can it even be fixed ?

I am about to pull the heads again, and was looking for advice.

0) I am running 1 level lean carb. jets on my edelbrock because first time I pulled the heads the machine shop said the fuel mixture was too rich, and damaging my valves. Should I go back to stock jets and figure the valves will last longer than head gaskets?
1) I'll have the heads checked and planed as needed (again).
2) I saw some solid copper head gaskets, would those help?
3) Should I pull the block, and if so what do I do/ask to have done?
4) Should I give up and buy a crate engine?

5) Any other helpful advice?

 

[bud4660]

I've always used Felpro blue's that dont need to be retorqued. Never had one fail. Besure and put them on right if they say front on one end. The block can be surfaced. Throw a straight edge on the top and see if its straight. If everything looks good. Clean the bolt holes with a tap and use new head bolts. Also check your torque wrench to be sure its reading right. That happened to a friend of mine. He was having head gaskets leak. His clicker torque wrench was off by 15 pounds. If you end up pulling th block out. Check and be sure the old freeze plugs were not hammered into the block and left when the new ones were installed. This was a common practice years ago. It can cause some overheating. Fatten the carb back up if its lean and check the timing. Check to see that the vacuum advance is working on the distributor. Old mufflers that rust inside will clog up and cause motors to run hot. Check to be sure the radiator hoses are not sucking to. Run a fan shroud and check the distance the fan is from the radiator. I'm not sure the overbore your running on the block is ok or not. It could be part of the problem? Might also check the heat range of the plugs. It wouldnt take but a couple things together to make it a real problem. What about the water pump. Has it been replaced? I havent followed your problems so I'm just throwing out idea's. Maybe some of it help.
Bud

 

[HistoricMustang]

Ditto. Felpro's. Remember, there is a left and right gasket but not a left and right head.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

[10secgoal]

Stockers from autozone or discount are great self sealers. Like the felpros mentioned above. Do not run the copper. The bore on the block is really pushing it. To be bored that much, it needed to be sonic tested ( I think that is what it's called) They check the actual metal thickness left in the bore, too thin and it can't cool down. Bud's ideas are good and the most logical places to start looking.

 

[Ronstang]

Never run the Felpro Blacks. They do not seal worth a flip. I have blown sevearl sets of them. The Blues are OK but I prefer a graphite head gasket myself. The Shelby had problems with head gaskets due to it's 11:1 compression but once I switched to graphite gaskets the problems never resurfaced.

 

[Hack]

What kind/brand of heads are you running? Aftermarket aluminum/ cast iron stockers?

Just curious.

 

[10secgoal]

Never run the Felpro Blacks. They do not seal worth a flip. I have blown sevearl sets of them. The Blues are OK but I prefer a graphite head gasket myself. The Shelby had problems with head gaskets due to it's 11:1 compression but once I switched to graphite gaskets the problems never resurfaced.

Yeppers. The blue are what I was refering to. With the permatex. No re-torquing needed, and have never had a problems sealing (yet ). Theya re really easy to clean after head removal, too. I've used them with Edelbrock RPM and AFR's. If I ever do blow one, the step up will be a graphite.

 

[Credzba]

I have Edelbrock performance heads, and my engine is bored 60 over.
I ended up researching, and Mr.Gasket sells some gaskets for nitrous or blown engines to seal the heads, supposedly can handle in excess of 12:1 ratios.
They were called Mr.Gasket Solicor gaskets.
They will be in next week, so we'll see how it goes.

The gaskets have a metal ring made into the gasket around each cylinder.
Approximates having the head o-ringed, though I am sure its not as good as that.

There was another company (began with a V) looks like they make the gaskets and Mr. Gasket re-markets them, but thats just a guess.

So, I'll pull it down this weekend, get the heads to the shop for inspection during the week, and try out my new gaskets next week (hope hope).

I really hope this fixes it because I saw the other thread about new console gauges. ooooh if I dont have to buy a new engine, gauges would be nice

 

[BlueMonster65]

victor rienz
those are the gaskets im running. no problems yet. boy .060 os alot to be asking of a 289. is it a hipo? you really shouldn't be blowing head gaskets that easily. definately replace the bolts. they are only good enough to be reused a couple times. i would definately check the block to make sure the deck hasn't warped. use a straight edge and i think its supposed to be no more than .008" for every 6" of surface area. hope it all works out for you.