Best LT's?
- Thread starter tx2000gt
- Start date
zenboy99
Founding Member
Well, there are several different factors at play.
What's your combo?
What are your goals?
If you've got a stock 2000 GT you don't need long tubes, unless you have large ambitions. If you do have large ambitions, then Kooks and Accufab make some great custom headers that suit you and your price range.
What's your combo?
What are your goals?
If you've got a stock 2000 GT you don't need long tubes, unless you have large ambitions. If you do have large ambitions, then Kooks and Accufab make some great custom headers that suit you and your price range.
Just don't buy MAC. They will rust like hell, and they suck valve seals out of the 4.6L motors, I don't know about the 5.0L, but go with BBK's...they look great, still to this day on my 96 and 97 Cobras.
95BLKGT5.0
Founding Member
Just don't buy BBK's. They will rust like hell, and they suck valve seals out of the 4.6L motors, I don't know about the 5.0L, but go with Mac...they look great, still to this day on my 95 GT
Its not like we have a ton of choices. MAC, BBK, Hooker, Kooks and Bassani step tube is just about it. Bassani and Kooks are not cheap. I've run BBK's and MAC and both seem to work and fit fine. The main ingrediant is coating. If you go cheap and not do the ceramic then whatever brand you get will look like ass. I spent the extra cash and purchased 1 3/4 Ceramic coated LT's by MAC and they are gorgeous. Make sure you get them coated.
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zenboy99
Founding Member
Just noticed today that my ceramic coated BBK LT's are rusting. My BBK headers were by far the worst product I've ever purchased for my car.
-Passenger side collector hits against the tranny cross-member
-Ceramic coating in the stud holes made them unuseable.
-Collector is more like 2", not 2.5"
-catepillar welds near the flanges.
-ceramic coating has rust after only 8 months.
-Passenger side collector hits against the tranny cross-member
-Ceramic coating in the stud holes made them unuseable.
-Collector is more like 2", not 2.5"
-catepillar welds near the flanges.
-ceramic coating has rust after only 8 months.
stprorolla49
Active Member
only thing that ive noticed about headers for mustangs that i didnt like was the fact that most companies make the flanges as 4 separate flanges...ive heard a few people have problems with them because the individual tubes tended to warp.....FRPP headers have a single flange....so my question is, does anyone make single flange LT's?
flange like this:
flange like this:
FlyBy763
Member
stprorolla49 said:only thing that ive noticed about headers for mustangs that i didnt like was the fact that most companies make the flanges as 4 separate flanges...ive heard a few people have problems with them because the individual tubes tended to warp.....FRPP headers have a single flange....so my question is, does anyone make single flange LT's?
flange like this:
BBK
Davin
Founding Member
After seeking Vibe's pics, I ordered MAC LT's
Some of the others may be better but they are A LOT more expensive, not convinced it would be worth it unless your made of kiz-ash! I'm doing my 347 build in Jan. and just plan on using some locking bolts and I'm set it and forget it!
Although this is only by visual observation, it appeared to me that MAC made more of an effort than BBK to make the tubes closer to equal length. BBK looked like they designed it for fit/clearance as a bigger priority. Anyway, I've always been led to believe that this would be more effective for scavenging
Some of the others may be better but they are A LOT more expensive, not convinced it would be worth it unless your made of kiz-ash! I'm doing my 347 build in Jan. and just plan on using some locking bolts and I'm set it and forget it!Although this is only by visual observation, it appeared to me that MAC made more of an effort than BBK to make the tubes closer to equal length. BBK looked like they designed it for fit/clearance as a bigger priority. Anyway, I've always been led to believe that this would be more effective for scavenging
Davin I hope your planning on doing a tubular K-Member while the motor is out. Not sure which size headers you purchased but my 1 3/4 LT's would have been a pain with the stock K. I actually had to lift my motor and tranny just to get the 1 3/4 to fit. This with a tubular front end.
The headers are sweet. I have about 110 miles on the motor and everytime I show someone under the hood they rave about the headers. Ceramic coating is truely the way to go.
The headers are sweet. I have about 110 miles on the motor and everytime I show someone under the hood they rave about the headers. Ceramic coating is truely the way to go.
Davin
Founding Member
Yeah, I wouldn't buy headers anymore without ceramic coating. Actually I ended up going with the 1 5/8 headers, not the 1 3/4. I know a lot of people will think this is a mistake, but I've never been to the straight track and I don't know if I ever will. The rest of the exhaust is 2 1/2 inch and I want to keep the low/mid range torque and velocity up. With my mild cam, I think it will be a good fit.
Davin
Founding Member
Oh, I didn't order a tubular K-member, I figured with the 1 5/8ths I'd be safe with the stock unit..what do you think?
Davin
Founding Member
Davin said:
I think Grady was saying a production block which I assume your getting from CHP. The 1 5/8 should bolt up easy. I had those on my 302 and they weren't a real hassle to get in even with the stock K. The 2.5 exhaust will work fine but with the air your trying to move a 3 inch would have been better. Should be very torquey though.
VibrantRedGT said:
My bad to everybody in this thread
I did not look at Davin's sig close enough to notice
he has 50 cubes more than that "stock short block" I mentioned above.
Don't ya'll think since he has a 347, the larger 1 3/4 size tubes would benefit him more than the 1 5/8 size?
Again sorry for the confusion on my part!
Grady
Davin
Founding Member
I'd love some feedback to that question, it seems both headers are back ordered so I have a little time if I want to change my mind. I had heard that over 400hp the 1 3/4"/3" start to make sense but that up until that point I'm better off with the 1 5/8"/2.5". Its a street application and I won't be spending a lot of time at high revs. Thought the smaller tubes would be better for low end torque.
Davin said:
Use 1 3/4" and use a better cam. Nothing wrong with AFM cam's but why use a 302 blower cam? Look at the AFM N91 if you wanna make good power and are willing to shift around 6,500 ish. I've seen over 400rwhp with that cam and those heads with a holley manifold.
I use 1 3/4" bbk's on my 347. If you use them make sure you grind open the collector. It necks down to under 2.5". I opened mine to 2.75" with a grinding bit on a dremel. I need a 3" mid pipe now but moneys tight.
Davin, call Pacifica which is another MAC distribution center. It is owned by the son of MAC. I bought my entire exhaust from there and I even worked the price down. Dan Sr. gave me a price which I told him I'd think about it. A few minutes I told him I'd buy it today for this price shipped. We agreed and a few days later MAC boxes showed up.
Honestly the 1 3/4 on AFR 185's are much much better. They are only like $25 more than the 5/8's anyway.
Honestly the 1 3/4 on AFR 185's are much much better. They are only like $25 more than the 5/8's anyway.
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