"Best Practice" Head Gasket Swap? Opinions?

Hey All,
So I'm working on sorting out a "not finished" 5.0/T5 swap into a 66 Vert and while sorting out the V-Belt vs Serpentine/standard/reverse water pump issues, I noticed that the driver side head gasket was on backwards (gasket tab/square corner protrudes at the rear of the head) and I need to change it before fire up. The passenger side is correct. Heads appear to have been freshly swapped and/or redone. This project was started by some sort of "Mac & Mire For Hire" team and everywhere you look is a mistake or at least a "What The F--K. It's been quite a while since I changed a head gasket and by now the gaskets and other products (sealers, etc) have changed quite a bit. My questions pertain to "best practices" for a trouble free swap. Obviously removal and good cleaning/prep is the first key step. BTW, this is NOT a race car.
Questions:
1>Best head gasket, a brand/part number for a single would be nice as the head gasket sets are so pricey because of all the extra stuff I don't need and I don't need 2 and the header gaskets are new/never been runand I don't need valve seals, yada-yada.
2>Gasket sealer, what kind, on head, on block or both?
3> Which of the head bolts need sealer on the threads? I know at least the front and rear lower. What others?
4>Best intake gasket for a Performer-289 that actually has the coolant crossover passage at the rear. Should I use or bag the end seals and just use a nice bead of black RTV?
I'm not totally an idiot, but am simply looking for opinions/pointers and maybe things I've forgotten on best practices for a job I haven't done in a while.
Thanks For All The Help,
Gene

iskwezm,
Thank you for your reply. So, Gasgacinch, on the heads, on the block or both or just coat the gasket?
Thanks Again,
Gene

Yeah,
When I do intakes, I ALWAYS (especially heavy cast iron) put 4 studs in the 1-2-3-4 tightening sequence holes to aid/facilitate trouble free lining up and reduced gasket slippage when dropping it on. I then start all other bolts in their holes before removing the studs, start those 4 bolts and run all bolts in, finger tight, in sequence. Then I torque in at least 3 steps. Never had any intake gasket issues. I will actually be using Mr. Gasket stuff from a complete engine set (#7120) that the customer brought. He understands that if it leaks it's "his dime for the time".
Thanks for the help Guys,
Gene