best torque convertor stall for stock engine?

jaymac · Apr 20, 2004

I searched the forums, but didn't get any good results... so I'll ask here-
I have a stock engine, just exhaust and CAI. I'm putting in 3.73's, and am wondering what the idealstall for my application would be. This is solely a street car, a daily driver, and almost NEVER sees 5000 rpm. My normal driving range is idle to 3000 rpm, with a few mashed pedals from time to time, so what would you guys recommend, and what companies?
Also, I bought a B&M transpak, but the guy at the tranny shop said it would kill my tranny by the end of the summer, has anyone had experience with this? I think he's saying that b/c they deal w/ transgo which was about $40 more, but is he right? The tranny has 40,000 miles on it now.
Thanks for the advice guys...
J

sirr0bin · Apr 20, 2004

most people do 2,200-2,400 from what ive seen, keeps it pretty streetable

if the cars just a total daily driver, might wanna go 1,800 or so

Rick 91GT · Apr 20, 2004

Contact Andre at www.edgeracingconverters.com he should be able to help you and has a good rep with great service.

sublime29 · Apr 20, 2004

I don't think that a transmision shift kit you bought will burn your trany up.The AOD 's have many problems if you drive it hard.I burnt up a brand new aod in about three months(maybe to much power).No downshifts either.For a trany shop to say that seems like they see you as a future customer of a rebuild. Hence don't want to make your trany last longer and shift crisp.You should install a trany cooler with that shift kit.Post how it performs when you get it in.Also if you get the gears and the shift kit done together you will swear you got a new engne it will run hard of the line and shift quicker(not to familiar with B&M's I like trango too).Your goin in the total right direction with the parts you got.

davs5.0 · Apr 21, 2004

I've got a B&M and its been in the car for 10+ years. It shouldn't burn up the trans. But, if I hd to do it all over again I'd have gone with the transgo or a Baumannengineering kit. Much better from all I've heard over the years.

Get yourself the biggest tranny cooler you can slide into that thing. Heat kills these things and it's pretty cheap insurance.

I think with a street car, you'll probably like the stall to be in the 2400-2600 range. I've got the 9.5" Edge racing 3000 in mine and it works flawlessly. Andre will answer every question you could possibly come up with.

Gearbanger 101 · Apr 21, 2004

Personally...I don't think you're going to notice a difference with anything under 2600. Most guys I know are running 2800-3000 and they still find their driveability as well as it was stock.

tmoss · Apr 21, 2004

tmoss · Apr 21, 2004

Yeah, I agree 2,800-3,000 would be good since you have the gears to make it streetable. It should drive very well. I had a B&M 3,000 stall with 4:10s and street manners were excleent.

Highbredcloud · Apr 21, 2004

With a stock motor YOU don't need a stall covnerter...the stock one is good all the way up to 2000RPM...which is plenty...BUT if you were to get one you want to get one that puts the cam right in the powerband...BTW: The stalls speed you see advertised are actually tested on a BIG block so on a SMALL block they will be of around 500RPM-700RPM..Transgo shift kit is SO much better then B&M...I had it in my AOD before the 5 speed coversion and I really liked it...BTW: a shift kit will extend the life of an AOD...

jaymac · Apr 22, 2004

Hey, thanks for all the responses, guys! I appreciate all the input... So this is what I'm getting:
I already recieved the B&M kit, but haven't put it in yet, as I'm waiting to see what the popular opinion is between that and the transgo. It looks like transgo is winning. I was actually on my way to tlak to the guys at the shop today to see about putting a tranny cooler in, so just get the biggest one I can??
Next, I see some different opinions about a t.c. on a stock engine, whether I even need it or not, being a daily driver and all. The shop recommended I do just the gears first, then see how I like them, and THEN think about a T.C.
I'll most likely have them do a transgo kit first, if that seems to have the best quality and reputation.
Someone mentioned Baumann engineering?
And LASTLY, should I put a new posi in the same time as my gears (only the right rear will leave rubber). Is this a performance thing, luxury or necessity? Keeping in mind it's a daily driver and straight line 60 sec. times are not the #1 priority. (however it would be sweet to leave dual strips of 245 mm worth of rubber smoking in my wake )
Thanks again, guys,
Jeremy

davs5.0 · Apr 22, 2004

The bigger the trans cooler the better.

A trac-loc (posi) rebuild will be way cheaper to get done while you are getting the gears installed. You don't have to buy the fluid and gaskets twice.

Highbredcloud says don't get the converter for a stock engine. Well, I had 3.55's in my car with just a few bolt ons and the car went low 15's at the track. POpped the stall converter in and went right to the low 14's at the track. Dollar for dollar, it made the biggest improvement to my track times. Gears and a converter are the way to go to get the most out of a stock motor.

Highbredcloud · Apr 22, 2004

davs5.0 said:
The bigger the trans cooler the better.

A trac-loc (posi) rebuild will be way cheaper to get done while you are getting the gears installed. You don't have to buy the fluid and gaskets twice.

Highbredcloud says don't get the converter for a stock engine. Well, I had 3.55's in my car with just a few bolt ons and the car went low 15's at the track. POpped the stall converter in and went right to the low 14's at the track. Dollar for dollar, it made the biggest improvement to my track times. Gears and a converter are the way to go to get the most out of a stock motor.

You have a 3000 stall on a stock cam? so that means it probably stalls to 2400 RPM before the tires let loose...and your stock cam starts making power at around 1800RPM to 5200 RPM...A stock converter is good all the way up to 2000RPM +....Was it worth the $500.00 for it? that's your opinion...With $500.00 to spend I would have thrown a set of 4.10 instead of 3.55 and would go the the same times without stressing the tranny too much...

jaymac · Apr 23, 2004

yeah, I spoke to the guys @ the shop yesterday, and told them to pull the A/C condensor to get the biggest cooler in there that they can, so that's next weekend...
So now, for my needs, (no strip action, just street) would it be worth it to go with an Eaton posi ($339), an Auburn ($289), a Ford Racing ($214) or just a rebuild kit ($90 plus labor)??? Any opionos, pros or cons?
Thanks again,
J

tmoss · Apr 23, 2004

If the rebuild kit + labor is more than the Frod Racing unit + labor, put the Ford Racing unit in, otherwise rebuild.

Matts89LX5.0 · Apr 23, 2004

sorry to hijack the thread...but hwo exactly do torque convertors benefit an auto and help get the most out of the motor?

davs5.0 · Apr 24, 2004

Highbred; the Edge 3000 stall goes right to 3000 rpm before the car tries to move thru the lights. When Andre tells you it will stall to a certain rpm, it does.

If you can get a stock stall to run all the way to 2K rpm before the brakes won't hold it, you're doing better than most guys.

Was it worth it? Absolutely. $500 to pick up over a second at the track, not many better bangs for the buck. Not many guys on this forum running 13.80's with stock cam, heads, intake, and a few bolt ons. I must be doing something right.

Different strokes for different folks buddy. We all learn from everyone. You do it your way, I'll do it mine.

jaymac · Apr 24, 2004

hmm.... interesting.... But if my priority is not staging at the lights and launching, do I really need it if I'm not flooring it from every light?

tmoss · Apr 24, 2004

davs5.0 said:
Highbred; the Edge 3000 stall goes right to 3000 rpm before the car tries to move thru the lights. When Andre tells you it will stall to a certain rpm, it does.

This does not sound right unless your foot is on the brake when describing where it stalls. I had a B&M 3,000 Hole Shot coverter in my 67 Camaro with 4:10s and if you didn't keep your foot on the brake, the car would start rolling. It drove very much like a stock trans other than if you "flashed" the coverter by jamming the pedal to the floor, then it would stall to about 3,000 before hooking up real hard.

davs5.0 · Apr 25, 2004

I'm definately talking about using the brakes to hold the car. It drives almost like the stock stall unless you use the brakes. I was just trying to tell him that some converters don't really stall to what they are advertised to. The Edge one does, at least mine does.

jaymac · Apr 26, 2004

So what does everybody think? For normal street use, rebuild kit ($43) plus labor, Ford Racing, or Eaton? Also, what about just a stock replacement?
Thanks,
j

best torque convertor stall for stock engine?

jaymac

New Member

sirr0bin

New Member

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

sublime29

New Member

davs5.0

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash

tmoss

Gettin Wired

tmoss

Gettin Wired

Highbredcloud

Active Member

jaymac

New Member

davs5.0

Highbredcloud

Active Member

jaymac

New Member

tmoss

Gettin Wired

Matts89LX5.0

davs5.0

jaymac

New Member

tmoss

Gettin Wired

davs5.0

jaymac

New Member

Similar threads

best torque convertor stall for stock engine?

New Member

New Member

Mustang Master

New Member

Straight Outta Locash

Gettin Wired

Gettin Wired

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Gettin Wired

New Member

Gettin Wired

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency