What's the best way to drop it down to remove the oil pan? I'm guessing I have to remove the steering shaft, take out the 2 bolts holding it to the K-member, and it should lower?
You could pull the two mounting bolts, and disconnect it from the shaft at the lock bolt on the rack stub shaft, or at the intermediate shaft near the firewall. Pulling it out of the stub shaft is best for that job.
I am not a fan of trying to r&r the oil pan in the car. Engine removal is nearly as easy, and lots easier to reseal the thing. Been there, done that.
Subscribing....Not to steal the thread, I have the same question, but is there a way of taking the rack off those steel rods without unbolting the tie rods? Is there any way to change the steering rack bushings while its still on the car? Thanks
The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.
The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.
The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.
To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning , but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.
When re-installing the rack, put the rear rubber bushings & hardware on first and then lift the rack into place. Then install the front rubber bushings, washers and other hardware. This will prevent clearance problems between the frame & hydraulic lines.
Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. To bleed the air out, put the car up on jacks. ThenfFill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.
Jrichker, . Another question, how do you take out the guides that the bolts go into??? Mine seem to be pressed into the frame/A-Arm? Anyone can have any insights....BTW, I managed to change the front bushings, with polyurethane and WOW, no more steering play, mind you I have the MM steering shaft. I still kept the back ones, since I can't get them out and I don't wanna mess with those tierods...Seems just fine as it is...any detriments to running polyurethane in the front and stock rubber in the back???