best ways to get to 300-400hp?

Alarus · Feb 2, 2006

i would like to get more power out of my stang, my questions are what do i need to get to 3-400hp? and can the bottom end/tranny, rearend handle that much power? i have a prety much stock 302/c-4 combo other than a performer intake(not rpm) and a carter performance carb(witch im having probs with), ive been looking at getting a coil, electronic points, ext. if i get a good cam would i need a set of heads? and what brands should i use? what kind of power gains could i expect off of a coil (flamethrower or something of the sort) and points,

jerry S · Feb 2, 2006

Alarus said:
i would like to get more power out of my stang, my questions are what do i need to get to 3-400hp? and can the bottom end/tranny, rearend handle that much power? i have a prety much stock 302/c-4 combo other than a performer intake(not rpm) and a carter performance carb(witch im having probs with), ive been looking at getting a coil, electronic points, ext. if i get a good cam would i need a set of heads? and what brands should i use? what kind of power gains could i expect off of a coil (flamethrower or something of the sort) and points,

cam and heads. AFR 165s and a cam matched to them and you will crack 300 easily with 400 being very attainable as well.

Go to AFR's web site and look at the link for dyno tests as well as articles. Just do an identical bulild and you are good to go. You may want to freshen up your bottom end and add forged rods for engine longevity. Remember you are only as strong as your weakest link

jbsteven · Feb 2, 2006

400 hp from a 302 is not as cheap as adding a cam and heads. you will have to upgrade your rear end as well.

DarkBuddha · Feb 2, 2006

I figure you've got a couple options...

Heads, rockers, cam, better intake, headers, electronic ignition... with this option you've got quite a bit of disassembly and reassembly to do, and you'll probably have to buy a few little extras to make everything work (i.e. new head bolts, fuel line, pushrods, etc.) and you'll be into it for probably right around $2500 in parts alone.

A second option would to be a supercharger, like a Paxton unit. Kits are around $2500 to start and pretty much bolt on without a lot of disassembly (especially no disassembly of the long block), but then you'll probably also need to buy some extra bits (fuel line, fuel pump, fuel regulator, etc.), but you could also have it done in a weekend (maybe even just a Saturday if you're serious about it). I guess this one really depends on whether you want a supercharger under your hood... (I think they look cool, but it is one more thing under there and they do add weight).

Ultimately, either way you go you'll need to make sure you get the thing tuned well (maybe professionally) to get the numbers you're looking for.

Hope this helps...

tylerrocks · Feb 2, 2006

CHEAPEST would be nitrous!!

Tyler

Alarus · Feb 2, 2006

1 no nitrous, ive never liked it,
2 2500 is less than i was figuring, i was thinking like 3-4k,
3 id have to remove my ac unit for a supercharger, (want to remove it anyway)
4 what all would i have to do to the bottom end and rear for it to handle that?

69Rcode_Mach1 · Feb 2, 2006

I would recommend, building a late model roller 5.0, pulling the engine (because you will have to anyway to get to that bottom end), and swapping in a carbed 5.0. 400 will take some work but can be reached without too much difficulty. Personally I would just go 351, more cubes and the block itself only weighs 30 pounds more than a 302, not to mention you will lose a lot more than that by putting aluminum heads on it anyway. With a 351 you can get 400 at the wheels fairly easy. 347 is always an option, let us know what appeals to you the most, and we can go from there.

Edbert · Feb 2, 2006

FLYwheel or REARwheel?

Getting 300fwhp is VERY easy and cheap.

Getting 300rwhp from a 302 is gonna cost over $2,500 not including the short block.

Adding cubes gets the most bang for the buck other than nitrous.

An 8" can hold 300rwhp for a long time as long as you don't go drag racing or ever get REALLY good traction (always remember traction breaks stuff not power ), but I'd advise a 9" anyway so you can have peace-of-mind.

180 Out · Feb 2, 2006

Seeing as how you're starting with a '73, get yourself a 460 out of an old truck or Lincoln, LTD, or Marquis, do a stock rebuild, add a cam and headers and a little home porting, and you can't NOT get 400 hp, for way less money than any smallblock option. And you can keep your AC, which I always thought was a life/safety issue in Arizona

Hack · Feb 2, 2006

180 Out said:
Seeing as how you're starting with a '73, get yourself a 460 out of an old truck or Lincoln, LTD, or Marquis, do a stock rebuild, add a cam and headers and a little home porting, and you can't NOT get 400 hp, for way less money than any smallblock option. And you can keep your AC, which I always thought was a life/safety issue in Arizona

+1

A 400 hp 460 will not only be cheaper, but also be a lot more reliable and last a lot longer than a 400 hp 302.

Alarus · Feb 3, 2006

now that you guys are giving me all these ideas im starting to like the 460 idear but personally ive always wanted to get a v-12 out of an old p-51 mustang fighter plane , and i cant find a supercharger to fit my app. paxton only goes to 69...and then to 74(i hate having the odd-ball of the fam.) also what is the power to waight % between the 460-302/351

Edbert · Feb 3, 2006

The Rolls Royce Merlin will probably cost $250,000, assuming you do the rebuild yourself.

Oh, and my ~400fwhp 351W weighs less than the 2V 289 it replaced.

Stay clear of the 4.6s they are larger than the 460, weigh as much as a Boss 429 and have less displacement than the 289.

DarkBuddha · Feb 3, 2006

I know the Paxton catalog doesn't list your application, but I highly suspect you could easily adapt one of their '65-'69 kits... there really isn't any difference between a '69 302 and a '73 302, other than maybe the crank pulley bolt pattern which maybe why the kit is listed only up to '69. Sigh...

Alarus · Feb 4, 2006

yeah, the supercharger idea is the highest im my list right now, the only prob is that i wont have all the money at once, i can get enuf up for a cam, and a pair of heads is really pushing it for my budget, but anyway, ill have to see if i can start saving, maby ill get up enuf money someday that i can get one, the thing i was liking about the 460 idea is that i can get a used engine for under like 500 bucks and i can just throw it in my tool room, and rebuild it as i go...suer it wouldnt be right away, but hey, it would get done sooner or later but yeah ill look into that, see what all needs done to put a 69 on my car...anyone know what kind of space ihave compared to the 69 (side to side, front to back, and between the hood and engine) or would this matter, what would the prob be with the pully bolt pattern be, im sure with everyones great knolage here at stangnet we could figure something out, and would a supercharger be too much for my stock tranny and rear?

I really only what to get it up to about 300, but i thought what the heck, might as well say 3-4.

LUCAFU1 · Feb 4, 2006

Whats wrong with nitrous? I spray my cobra and its supercharged. Anyway I say build yourself a 302 stroker. More parts are availible and cheaper then say a 351 or 460. I just bought a mexican block because I cant afford a dart/r302 block. Get your self a nice forged stroker kit, cam, intake, and whatever else you need. Im going EFI and a single turbo.

Are 8" rears really that weak?

Alarus · Feb 4, 2006

honestly i have no clue on the limit of the 8" rear, all i can say is i keep losing u-joints, ive never had any prob with my rear, other than the fluid being low.

Hack · Feb 4, 2006

LUCAFU1 said:
Whats wrong with nitrous? I spray my cobra and its supercharged. Anyway I say build yourself a 302 stroker. More parts are availible and cheaper then say a 351 or 460. I just bought a mexican block because I cant afford a dart/r302 block. Get your self a nice forged stroker kit, cam, intake, and whatever else you need. Im going EFI and a single turbo.

Are 8" rears really that weak?

I remember last year there was a guy on here that had destroyed several (was it 5?) 8 inch rears. They were all built up with good parts too, IIRC.

I wish I could remember what he was doing, how much hp, etc. but I think it was hard street driving. Maybe he will find this thread.

LUCAFU1 · Feb 4, 2006

Hack said:
I remember last year there was a guy on here that had destroyed several (was it 5?) 8 inch rears. They were all built up with good parts too, IIRC.

I wish I could remember what he was doing, how much hp, etc. but I think it was hard street driving. Maybe he will find this thread.

damn that sucks. I wonder whats the weak link in the 8". I bought a 9" to build up just because. I wanted to do a 8.8 because you can make them bullet proof. I have a 8.8 IRS in my cobra and its built. It holds my 500+ rwhp/rwtq just fine and when I spray it its 600+.

danny clemens · Feb 4, 2006

Get a 351 W and stroke it. That way you can have the best of both worlds. Light engine and horsepower.

steel1212 · Feb 4, 2006

12sec67 I think broke 3 maybe more and he, at the time, only had around 300 hp. I think he was running drag radials as well. I jumped on a 9 inch that fit my car as soon as I could. When I got it there was no way I would need it....now I'm glad I have it.

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