Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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Ok just starting my own thread so I can better keep track of things. The car is a 94 Cobra with around 192k miles and at about 274/296 rwhp. Just to point out, in 2014 my 94 GT/Saleen with the same engine at the same tuner with the only difference being shorties vs LT's, 3.55 vs 3.73, and flowmaster mufflers vs a now pypes bomb free flowing cat back, made 291/313. The car got hit in the rear in 2015 and it took me 4 years to finally dismantle. In '22 I put that engine in the Cobra with LT's, that rear end got 3.73's, and the pypes cat back. Not sure why it made less hp and that much less. I think he might've said could've been an issue with the dyno or something.

It has good compression and the car runs fine but I just want more out of it despite the miles. Sure a new engine with a blower is best but worst case is if it blows up at some point, I'll have an excuse to do one for it :D . By the way currently getting a 331 done in TX if the builder can find a good stock block. He's on no. 4 now and should get to check it out next week. If I had to do it over I'd just go Dart big bore 347 but I already bought and shipped him parts for a 331. All my cars are just weekend street cars, No track, and they get driven not hard hard hard every time I get in them. They get somewhat babied or driven normal, but I do horse them around sometimes to my liking for sure....:banana:

So here's the list I got from Scott at Extreme Mustangs in Monroe, NC. He has blower cars and has been building for 30 years so I feel comfortable driving the car 2 hrs and 40 minutes and letting him knock it out. The past few days though I've been getting more comfortable doing it myself since it seems I won't have to do a lot of the things that we were going to do from the list after reading up on and discussing things with you guys and others elsewhere as well. I'm going to share the list from him and in what I'll do instead:

Current setup:
Performer 2
TF 170's milled down to 58cc
1.6 rockers with around .525 lift, 275/283
70 tb, 75 maf, 1 5/8 LT's, X, pypes cat back, CAI, 24 lb injectors

Scott's list:
Vortech V3
Sfi rated dampner ( seems I'll be fine with oem)
60 lb injectors ( might have to go FR with adapters as Seimens seem hard to find with no eta from one I called)
Ignitiion box ( might be either Mallory hyfire 6 or Pertronix digi HP instead of MSD)
Pro M 92 mm MAF ( seems I'll need to get it calibrated through them at purchase, or??)
UPR 4 inch power pipe
Scott suggested a 3.47 pulley ( ?)
255 fp ( Scott suggested 340 with upgrade wiring but said 255 should work but suggest to upgrade wiring. My research shows there's a lot of folks running the oem wiring and have been fine for a long time)
Scott suggested an aeromotive fp regulator ( I already have a billet adj. on it and I see some guys run it, should be fine?)
fp gauge under hood
mech boost vaccum, elec fp guage, and digi wideband air fuel guage

Can I run an ignition box or does it make sense to run one with the oem coil?

It seems 30-40 more hp with the 4 inch power pipe vs what comes in the kit?

Pcv setup with breather on the oil fill. The line that is now from the CAI nipple to the VC nipple will go where with the SC?

My car has no emissions so everything smog, ect is gone......
 
You may have answered some of these questions already in the other threads, but:

1. what boost numbers are the v3 putting out? 4-6 or 8-10? This will determine if you need a bypass valve (and the discharge pipe that has a bung for it)
2. i'm not sure if you need the high pressure version of the 255lph fuel pump if you're not running a FMU, but i think you can run the high pressure version anyways
3. My PCV system is as follows: factory PCV from the back lower intake manifold up to the upper intake, but i added another 1 way check valve there. My line going from the VC oil tube no longer goes to the TB, but to my air filter cover, also with a 1 way check valve. that way any excess crankcase pressure routes to pre-MAF, this is just the way my s/c instructions told me to route this. General consensus i think is against VC breathers unless you get a 1 way check breather.
4. why a 60MM MAF if you already have a 75MM one? And the MAF will get 'calibrated' during the tuning process. I think you are past 'calibrated' MAFs to injector size.
 
You may have answered some of these questions already in the other threads, but:

1. what boost numbers are the v3 putting out? 4-6 or 8-10? This will determine if you need a bypass valve (and the discharge pipe that has a bung for it)
2. i'm not sure if you need the high pressure version of the 255lph fuel pump if you're not running a FMU, but i think you can run the high pressure version anyways
3. My PCV system is as follows: factory PCV from the back lower intake manifold up to the upper intake, but i added another 1 way check valve there. My line going from the VC oil tube no longer goes to the TB, but to my air filter cover, also with a 1 way check valve. that way any excess crankcase pressure routes to pre-MAF, this is just the way my s/c instructions told me to route this. General consensus i think is against VC breathers unless you get a 1 way check breather.
4. why a 60MM MAF if you already have a 75MM one? And the MAF will get 'calibrated' during the tuning process. I think you are past 'calibrated' MAFs to injector size.
Quick google search shows 5-8 and I emailed Tre Performance to ask. I read one thing where someone said Vortech claims 10.5 so by the time I buy I i will confirm.

So you're not running a breather or a catch can. Where does the excess pressure pre MAF vent to?

You must have started typing before I edited to 92 mm MAF lol.
 
You may have answered some of these questions already in the other threads, but:

1. what boost numbers are the v3 putting out? 4-6 or 8-10? This will determine if you need a bypass valve (and the discharge pipe that has a bung for it)
2. i'm not sure if you need the high pressure version of the 255lph fuel pump if you're not running a FMU, but i think you can run the high pressure version anyways
3. My PCV system is as follows: factory PCV from the back lower intake manifold up to the upper intake, but i added another 1 way check valve there. My line going from the VC oil tube no longer goes to the TB, but to my air filter cover, also with a 1 way check valve. that way any excess crankcase pressure routes to pre-MAF, this is just the way my s/c instructions told me to route this. General consensus i think is against VC breathers unless you get a 1 way check breather.
4. why a 60MM MAF if you already have a 75MM one? And the MAF will get 'calibrated' during the tuning process. I think you are past 'calibrated' MAFs to injector size.
are you running oem balancer or sfi rated?
 
Quick google search shows 5-8 and I emailed Tre Performance to ask. I read one thing where someone said Vortech claims 10.5 so by the time I buy I i will confirm.

So you're not running a breather or a catch can. Where does the excess pressure pre MAF vent to?

You must have started typing before I edited to 92 mm MAF lol.
I am not running any breather or catch cans. But, and i don't know if this makes a difference, i am running Paxtons 'low boost' kit, which is 4-6lbs only. I have to abide by SMOG and breathers/catch cans are a no-no here in CA.
are you running oem balancer or sfi rated?
OEM balancer, but new. I just replaced mine earlier this year.
 
I am not running any breather or catch cans. But, and i don't know if this makes a difference, i am running Paxtons 'low boost' kit, which is 4-6lbs only. I have to abide by SMOG and breathers/catch cans are a no-no here in CA.

OEM balancer, but new. I just replaced mine earlier this year.
Gotcha. Mine has some age on it and I guess I'll see if it holds up lol.....

Did yours fail or did you have to do something else in that area and just changed?
 
Dang. Pullies are that expensive?? Asked them the V3 psi

I might be fine with 6-8 :D

Is it more based on my car not being stock?
 

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Nope but if you go into the Fox Talk Section and click on one of the yellow [progress Thread] banners, it will sort and bring up [all] the [Progress Threads] in a list. :D

I been to lots of rodeos :jester:
I wonder if other people who have not replied so far will still see it as if they would have normally replied seeing it in the text section
 
Gotcha. Mine has some age on it and I guess I'll see if it holds up lol.....

Did yours fail or did you have to do something else in that area and just changed?
If referring to my balancer, mine was starting to separate. Not catastrophically but it was time to replace it. My longblock has 167k on it so i assume it was the stock balancer. I had some 1,500rpm vibrations and a shop recommended i look at the balancer. So i replaced it myself, but i don't think it was the cause of the vibrations (they are minimal, but still present).
 
If referring to my balancer, mine was starting to separate. Not catastrophically but it was time to replace it. My longblock has 167k on it so i assume it was the stock balancer. I had some 1,500rpm vibrations and a shop recommended i look at the balancer. So i replaced it myself, but i don't think it was the cause of the vibrations (they are minimal, but still present).
Where do you feel the vibration?
 
Where do you feel the vibration?
The previous owner replaced the clutch prior to me buying the car. I have a gut feeling he didn't do something 100% correctly in that area. After doing a lot of other work on my car i've noticed a lot of the previous work he did was subpar. The vibration is felt in the shifter handle and somewhat the whole car. I get a rythmic vibration/noise like cruising at highway speeds.

Its not enough for me to be super concerned about. Car still drives fine and has good power. I rarely drive the thing so sometimes my memory fades of what the actual issue is and how its presented to me during driving conditions.
 
The previous owner replaced the clutch prior to me buying the car. I have a gut feeling he didn't do something 100% correctly in that area. After doing a lot of other work on my car i've noticed a lot of the previous work he did was subpar. The vibration is felt in the shifter handle and somewhat the whole car. I get a rythmic vibration/noise like cruising at highway speeds.

Its not enough for me to be super concerned about. Car still drives fine and has good power. I rarely drive the thing so sometimes my memory fades of what the actual issue is and how its presented to me during driving conditions.
Oh gotcha
 
I sent tre performance an email asking if with my modded car if it will be more PSI and was told it would be less :oops:

Correct. Boost pressure is a side effect. The better your engine processes air, the less boost you get.

Even so, the HP on the better breathing engine will be higher than the lower breathing engine even though the P,S, and I's read higher.

It's that pesky pressure vs. volume thing that I refer to all the time. We had a similar conversation about fuel pumps. :stick:
 
Correct. Boost pressure is a side effect. The better your engine processes air, the less boost you get.

Even so, the HP on the better breathing engine will be higher than the lower breathing engine even though the P,S, and I's read higher.

It's that pesky pressure vs. volume thing that I refer to all the time. We had a similar conversation about fuel pumps. :stick:
Ok. I just have to decide if I want to run the stock pullies or not he heheee. Communicating with a guy on fb messenger who's setup is similiar and he made 416/423 and he said those tuners didn't know what they were doing lol. He ended up getting a mail tune from Ted Jenkins and said his car runs and does waaay better; he didn't get it dynoed again though. Just asked him if he's running stock pullies and I'll see what he says. Those numbers aren't bad and I'm sure I'll be satisfied.

Ted Jenkins is the man on fb he does remote tuning as well......