ok this upcoming weekend, i'm going to install my bbk longtubes, my mac prochamber, along with my new mini starter and while i'm at it, im replacing my clutch with a FRPP king cobra clutch. any suggestions on a checklist i should have for this project as far as little parts i may not have thought of, or special procedures i should do, or things i should look into replacing while im doing this? thanks in advance.
big project this weekend, tech tips appreciated...
- Thread starter p.exeter_bleu
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txstang84
15 Year Member
before you begin disconnect the battery
new set of quality exhaust gaskets (like felpro-1415, or of the like)
jack stands, engine lift, or at least some way to jack and support the engine from underneath (I dunno if you have to disconnect the steering linkage for BBK headers or not)
install everything finger tite before tightening ANYTHING down go from the front to the back...i.e., attach the headers finger tite at the heads, loosely mount the h-pipe, loosely mount the cat-back...
...then tighten the header bolts into the heads, tighten the h-pipe bolts, then tighten the cat-back.
inspect everything visible while you're under the car, ck for burned wires, or speedo cable-now would be a great time to replace your O2's (unless they're pretty new)...replace any components that look like they could use it-clutch cable, speedo cable...signs of damage: discoloration, cracking, evidence of burning, etc-use your best judgement.
ck all wiring for chaffing or burning, ck all your engine and tranny mounts for disbonding-replace as necessary, ck exhaust hangers for the same...
resurface your flywheel-not on a brake lathe-take it somewhere that lap grinds it-produces a better friction surface and cuts down on chattering.
while the tranny's out, clean out your bellhousing, and make sure the ball stud inside is secure...ck your u-joints on the driveshaft. when you reinstall it, use blue loctite on the driveshaft bolts.
I'm sure you've thought of most if not all of the same things...those are the things I would have for immediate concern...and I'm sure someone else will have a few things to add, or possibly chastise me for wanting to replace so much stuff at the same time. But, from experience, you may not know something is wrong until you look at it, and realize that it must be replaced for-if nothing else-your own piece of mind.
new set of quality exhaust gaskets (like felpro-1415, or of the like)
jack stands, engine lift, or at least some way to jack and support the engine from underneath (I dunno if you have to disconnect the steering linkage for BBK headers or not)
install everything finger tite before tightening ANYTHING down go from the front to the back...i.e., attach the headers finger tite at the heads, loosely mount the h-pipe, loosely mount the cat-back...
...then tighten the header bolts into the heads, tighten the h-pipe bolts, then tighten the cat-back.
inspect everything visible while you're under the car, ck for burned wires, or speedo cable-now would be a great time to replace your O2's (unless they're pretty new)...replace any components that look like they could use it-clutch cable, speedo cable...signs of damage: discoloration, cracking, evidence of burning, etc-use your best judgement.
ck all wiring for chaffing or burning, ck all your engine and tranny mounts for disbonding-replace as necessary, ck exhaust hangers for the same...
resurface your flywheel-not on a brake lathe-take it somewhere that lap grinds it-produces a better friction surface and cuts down on chattering.
while the tranny's out, clean out your bellhousing, and make sure the ball stud inside is secure...ck your u-joints on the driveshaft. when you reinstall it, use blue loctite on the driveshaft bolts.
I'm sure you've thought of most if not all of the same things...those are the things I would have for immediate concern...and I'm sure someone else will have a few things to add, or possibly chastise me for wanting to replace so much stuff at the same time. But, from experience, you may not know something is wrong until you look at it, and realize that it must be replaced for-if nothing else-your own piece of mind.
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Bad motor mounts are usually ripped.
If you dont mind a little extra vibration,sure.Solids are great.
Use a poly/rubber trans mount though.
If you dont mind a little extra vibration,sure.Solids are great.
Use a poly/rubber trans mount though.
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Oh,txstang84 reminded me about something.
Use some loctight blue on the crossmember to frame bolts,cause they WILL back out on you.
Use some loctight blue on the crossmember to frame bolts,cause they WILL back out on you.
txstang84
15 Year Member
BAD bad motormounts will be obviously bad, the part that bolts to the motor will move independently of the part that bolts to the k-member...
if you do decide to go solid, just make sure you get solid tranny mounts and solid crossmember bushings as well...having only one type of solid mount will allow flex elsewhere, and [possibly] cause breakage of the tranny housing-not likely, but possible
I'm using the poly mount kits which include the engine mounts and the tranny mount for about $115-$130 from either prothane or energy suspension
if you do decide to go solid, just make sure you get solid tranny mounts and solid crossmember bushings as well...having only one type of solid mount will allow flex elsewhere, and [possibly] cause breakage of the tranny housing-not likely, but possible
I'm using the poly mount kits which include the engine mounts and the tranny mount for about $115-$130 from either prothane or energy suspension
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
txstang84 said:
No,I wouldnt do that...can crack the bellhousing or trans case.
The chassis itself can just twist and flex too much.
Use a poly or rubber trans mount.
txstang84
15 Year Member
ahh, I know what it was-I had a friend a long time ago, that tried to use a solid tranny mount in an old Camaro with a turbo 350, and wasn't using anything special for motor mounts, the first time at the track after it launched (this car was pretty healthy mind you-11s on spray), the housing for the tranny cracked from right in front of the tailshaft right up to the bellhousing-that's where I got that from
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Yea,we were runing solid motor mounts with an Energy Suspension poly trans mount behind our 408 with 250hp shot.
Even with our cage,I just think the uni-bodys arent stiff enough in that area to trust a solid trans mount.
Oh,we did have some poly motor mounts once,but they ripped.I dont know how but it has a visable tear in one of them.
Even with our cage,I just think the uni-bodys arent stiff enough in that area to trust a solid trans mount.
Oh,we did have some poly motor mounts once,but they ripped.I dont know how but it has a visable tear in one of them.
txstang84
15 Year Member
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
Eat a few Advill's cause you know your gonna slip a wrench and make some pain and loose some skin or you could just wear some gloves.
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Roland69 said:
LOL,you must have read the worst injury thread in Talk huh?
Most of them were trans/under car related,so be careful buddy.
