Electrical Bizarre issue

I agree with the electrical/ignition system being the issue, a fuel flow issue would, I think, cause the engine to stumble and even while stumbling the ignition system is still active, pip, coil, plugs be a firing, they don't know there is no gas to ignite.
I would isolate the fuel sender, or even the entire dash to rule out that end of the electrical system then isolate the fuel sender at the tank by jumping the pump wires.
Just thinking now, do the other gauges act normal when the shut down happens? When the car dies and is still moving cycle the ignition switch off then on, does it come alive?
 
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a short in the wiring would blow a fuse or melt a wire.
Shorts don’t give intermittent problems like this

The fuel pump is on its own relay.
The EEC is also on it’s own relay.
The EEC monitors the fuel pump circuit and controls it. If that were a problem, it would store a code, & still demand spark.
It does not monitor the fuel level or gauge.

Just don’t fill up anymore if you truly believe the issue to be related, but I’m afraid it will still happen as you drive and then you can chock it up to coincidence, and solve the real issue (ignition).
 
a short in the wiring would blow a fuse or melt a wire.
Shorts don’t give intermittent problems like this

The fuel pump is on its own relay.
The EEC is also on it’s own relay.
The EEC monitors the fuel pump circuit and controls it. If that were a problem, it would store a code, & still demand spark.
It does not monitor the fuel level or gauge.

Just don’t fill up anymore if you truly believe the issue to be related, but I’m afraid it will still happen as you drive and then you can chock it up to coincidence, and solve the real issue (ignition).

My thought isn't that the EEC is monitoring the fuel gauge, but the power source might be shared with the fuel gauge. Very similar to the power source for the Oil pressure sensor and the Temp gauge. About 15 years ago, I found the temp sensor causing an issue with the oil pressure reading. I'd unplug the temp sensor and the oil pressure read would calm down and read like a mechanical gauge. The temp sensor was causing a flyback voltage spike that would show in the oil pressure gauge. Bizarre, yeah, but if you can get your hands on a good schematic and look at source voltages, it makes sense. I just dont have access to those schematics anymore.

The ignition module is new, by the way. And I NEVER chock anything up to coincidence. It's a mechanical device. There is always a cause and effect. Even if the dots are difficult to connect.
 
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The ignition module, the TFI, is different than the PIP module.

And new doesn’t equal good. I have had brand new parts fail right out of the box.

The cluster voltage isn’t going to affect the EEC. It has a separate source of voltage and ground.

You have had this issue since 2021?
 
My first thought is only put 10 gallons at a time in it, problem solved! ;)
However, I strongly suspect a bare wire or something like that in the top of the new fuel pump, possibly shorting it out.
Shorts cause fires / pop fuses. They don’t rectify themselves.

If the fuel pump lost power, the car would stumble/ misfire before shutting off. Not a sudden ignition loss.
 
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I would inspect everything in the rear of the car near the tailpipes since that is when you feel this issue started. I would lower the fuel tank and look over the vent, verify the charcoal canister isn't a problem as well as the long line to it and as a test don't top it off for x amount of time and see if it happens. You probably have a time frame of fill ups to where you know it happens that you can go against if it has been happening for so long.