Black Jack: LMR door lock actuators suck!

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
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Vass, NC
Here's a car I bought two days ago from a nice fella named Ron in NJ. Yes, it's identical to the other 1991 black hatchback, except that it has a black interior. I am getting back to work on the turbo '91, and I plan to work on a couple of things, like swapping a couple of body panels and the black interior for the grey in my other '91 hatch. In the mean time, I'm going to enjoy driving this one, as the drive-train is fantastic:

Performance parts (17JUN24 updates in parens):
GT40X heads
GT40 tubular intake (MOSS ported lower)
E-cam
1.7:1 Roller rockers
BBK 70mm TB (Accufab 70 now)
Pro-M bullet 75mm MAF
MAC fenderwell CAI
BBK 1 5/8" Long tubes, O/R H-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber mufflers
ASP UD pullies (Crank and W/P only with O/D on alternator)
Smog pump eliminated

Power Adder added in '24:
(Zex wet kit w/ 38 psi hobbes switch)
(currently 100/125 nitrous/fuel jets)
(MSD window switch 3.5-5.8k RPM)
(NOS bottle heater)
(bottle blanket)

Fuel:
Kirban AFPR (Accufab with electronic sender to a-pillar FP gauge)
Walbro 255 LPH pump (GSS340)
30lbs FMS red top injectors

Ignition/Electrical:
Blaster Coil
MSD 6AL box (Digital 6 Plus w/ signal suppsression capacitor)
MSD Cap
Ford 9mm Wires (Live Wires)
Autolute 3924 (Autolite 3923)
Autometer Shift light set at 5600
(3G PA Perf 130-amp alternator)
(start solenoid wire tuck)
(Wires loomed)
(Lasfit LED Headlights)

Driveline:
King Cobra Clutch (same but with upgraded hybrid 26-spl disk)
(Steeda cable & full-radius quadrant)
(Pro5.0 shifter & Hurst pistol grip)
(Firewall adjuster)
4.10 gears (3.73s)
31 spline Moser Axles (31 spline Moser 5-lugs)
Kevlar Trac-Loc clutches (Eaton Truetrac)
FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft
(Stifflers Transmission Mount)
FRPP Steel Flywheel
T5 ('03 Cobra T56 housing with 26-spl input, 2.66, 1.78, 1.29, 1, .74, 0.5 gears)
(SN95 clutch fork shortened as much a possible)
(Quicktime RM-8031 bellhousing)
(Dakota Digital speed signal converter)
(Abbott Cable-X box. Converts digital to cable-driven speedo)

Suspension:
"Lakewood traction bars,"
BBK "Gripp" LCAs
BBK Uppers (Team-Z adjustible)
Lakewood 50/50s in the rear
Rear B-Springs w/ uninstalled fronts giving a reverse rake/Carolina squat (B-spring all around now)
(MM Caster camber plates)

Brakes/wheels/tires:
Hurst Line Lock
(13"/11.65" Cobra brakes)
(93 Cobra MC & Booster)
(adj prop valve)
(5-lug conversion w/ 94-95 spindles & fox length axles)
(Steeda bumpsteer kit)
(steering rack limiters)
New-ish Goodyear Eagle GTs on ponies
(17x9 20th Anni Wheels in anthracite)
(245/45/17 Michelin Pilot PS4)
(Nitto 555RII 275/40/17 out back)

Cooling system:
Ron Davis Radiator
Canton overflow tank
(Lincoln MkVIII fan w/ DCC controller)
192* Tstat (180* now)

Interior:
(TMI door panels)
(TMI headliner)
(Daniel Carpenter center console with cup holders & USB ports)
(Corbeau GTIIs with rear seat covers)
(417 fox A/C & Head Unit swap panel)
(Billet A/C controls)
(Pioneer touch screen head unit)
(P51 tweeters)
(Pioneer 6x8" mids)
(10" subwoofer)
(POR-15 & Kilmat everywhere)
(Autometer FP gauge a-pillar)
(Innovate MTX-L wideband a-pillar)

Problems:
- half-dollar sized bubble in right rear 1/4 panel (repaired)
minor rust in the door wells, but the frame/suspension/body otherwise look great (repaired)
- Overheats gradually at idle or low speed. (repaired)
- No Headliner... Swapping black interior into my other car, and I'll order one from LRS (repaired)
- Whistling sound in vicinity of the driver's side of the GT40 upper... I'm thinking it's a vacuum leak, but don't see anything. (was BBK TB repaired)
- CAI tubing rattles into the strut tower (repaired)
- Rear Latch doesn't close well (repaired)
- minor wobble in the brakes (repaired)
- Fuel Pressure is low @ only ~30psi w/o vacuum (repaired)
- No sub-frame connectors!!! How is that possible, given all the other mods? (custom subframes installed)
- Center dash vents are missing the center fins (replaced)

Pleasant surprises:
A/C blows extra cold after I stopped at an A/C and had it vacuumed and recharged properly.
No CEL light
All gauges work perfectly
Came with all receipts and a 276 rwhp dyno
Came with extras: front B-springs, distributor w/ TFI, BBK equal length shorties, A9L box, Sunroof,

I'm not sure how long I'll keep it as an extra project. Either way, I'm pretty happy about it.

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Well I forgot to mention that I'm pretty sure, based on carfax, that it has about 180,000 miles. However, I have a stack of receipts for the replacement driveline, accessories, etc...
 
That's a nice looking car, man. I love a nice lx hatch! Only thing better than owning one... is owning two!:nice:
 
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Nothing's wrong with a 2G alternator that works lol. When it craps out, in goes the 130 amp, assuming I still have the car.

I'm not sure where I'm going with this car, though. I'm gonna start to work out the kinks, and maybe in the long run, I'll keep it. Soon, I'll have a TKO from the beast ready to go in it. If I keep it, I'm thinking: 3.55s (speedo matching), swap in the TKO, and then maybe I'll build the basic turbo combo I've always wanted: stock block w/ HCI & a 66-70mm turbo, 42lbs injectors, 255LPH pump with a kenne-bell boost-a-pump. A car like that would probably make 500rwhp by 13 psi. So, back it off to 10psi, and drive it all day every day. Only other thing I'd need would be sticky tires and maybe an upgraded brake system.
 
Nothing's wrong with a 2G alternator that works lol. When it craps out, in goes the 130 amp, assuming I still have the car.

I'm not sure where I'm going with this car, though. I'm gonna start to work out the kinks, and maybe in the long run, I'll keep it. Soon, I'll have a TKO from the beast ready to go in it. If I keep it, I'm thinking: 3.55s (speedo matching), swap in the TKO, and then maybe I'll build the basic turbo combo I've always wanted: stock block w/ HCI & a 66-70mm turbo, 42lbs injectors, 255LPH pump with a kenne-bell boost-a-pump. A car like that would probably make 500rwhp by 13 psi. So, back it off to 10psi, and drive it all day every day. Only other thing I'd need would be sticky tires and maybe an upgraded brake system.

Take it from me.. you're going to need a real clutch, unless you have some kinda restraint with the happy pedal. I don't. Stage 2 spec is a sissy..LOL
 
We're talking about alternators, not clutches...

On clutches, though... I've never run a stage spec 2, but a spec 3 held up great behind my twin-turbo car. The King Cobra clutch in it now is fine until I swap over the TKO, at which point, the Spec 3+ will come along with it.
 
We're talking about alternators, not clutches...

On clutches, though... I've never run a stage spec 2, but a spec 3 held up great behind my twin-turbo car. The King Cobra clutch in it now is fine until I swap over the TKO, at which point, the Spec 3+ will come along with it.

I was referring to a recent experience of mine with a spec 2+, after reading your laundry list of turbo enhanced goodness you have planned. My point was, with a 500hp car even on the street don't expect an inferior clutch to last, because mine didn't.. I'm moving up to a twin.. ask @GroverDill about his opinion of his 3+. It convinced me to step up is all I'm saying.
 
Ok, thanks for your clutch advice. I will not be looking at Spec Stage 2s, but I will be using the same Spec Stage 3+ that handled 760rwhp like a champ. I think it'll take the 450-500 I might make some day in the future.
 
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Seems I solved my minor overheating issue today. After replacing the stock fan, fan clutch, t-stat (from 180 to 195*), and water pump, what actually fixed it was replacing the ASP under drive pulley on the water pump with the stocker. Well, I might have wasted $33 on a water pump, and $60 on a fan clutch, but I appreciate the peace of mind that comes with knowing the cooling system is in good shape.
 
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Ron was super nice! I really liked him.

I put the car on a dyno today and will post the results. I was only looking at the AFR to make sure that it wasn't running lean. It wasn't. With the motor hot, it ran 12.8-13.2 range and 260 rwhp. Cold, I saw it run as high as 13.5:1, and 271rwhp. I'm looking forward to comparing the last owner's dyno with mine, because I believe he went from shorties to long tube headers. I'd like to see if there's any more mid-range. Although it's possible that the car is down on power compared to his last run (276rwhp), different dynos, different days operators, etc... I'd curious about the torque curve, though. I'd like to see how the long-tubes compared to the shorties.

I should get a chance to take the car out for test 'n tune on Thursday night. The drag strip, Kilkare, is just a couple miles from my place.
 
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Ron was super nice! I really liked him.

I put the car on a dyno today and will post the results. I was only looking at the AFR to make sure that it wasn't running lean. It wasn't. With the motor hot, it ran 12.8-13.2 range and 260 rwhp. Cold, I saw it run as high as 13.5:1, and 271rwhp. I'm looking forward to comparing the last owner's dyno with mine, because I believe he went from shorties to long tube headers. I'd like to see if there's any more mid-range. Although it's possible that the car is down on power compared to his last run (276rwhp), different dynos, different days operators, etc... I'd curious about the torque curve, though. I'd like to see how the long-tubes compared to the shorties.

I should get a chance to take the car out for test 'n tune on Thursday night. The drag strip, Kilkare, is just a couple miles from my place.

He ran the car i forgot what it did...mid 13s i want to say.... he was a little rusty LOL....
 
296 rwtq, but the run started at about 3800 and the torque was already dropping from its peak. 14* base timing.

Honestly, I think the power it made is right on the money. I would've guessed 270rwhp, as I've had 2 other GT40X combos that were both in that area. I actually thought the longtubes would give just a bit more, and bet the dyno owner it would make 280rwhp. He bet 295. I won $5!

I'm not disappointed at all. The car runs strong, doesn't detonate, looks decent. If there's much left in the combo, I'll find it at the track. Honestly, it's making enough power to get me to 500 with a turbo, if I choose to go that route.
 
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I'm on my way to the track for the first time in probably 6 years!!! So excited. I'm not hoping for much. With Goodyear Eagle GTs in the stock size, I doubt I'll see the good side of a 2.0 60', but it's still going to be fun! Anyone taking bets? I think the car will go in the 13.5-13.7 range as it sits.
 
I must say that the I am very pleasantly surprised! The 60' was as bad as I imagined it would be, but my ET was better! The car is definitely geared well for the trap speed and power band!

I am proud to present Black Jack's first timeslip, and its fastest ET to date! The last owner told me he ran a 13.5@103 best.

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60': 2.24
1/8: [email protected]
1/4:[email protected]

I'm stoked that on its very first run it only ETed 0.06 seconds slower than the fastest ET I ever got out of my 1997 Corvette (bone stock) - a [email protected], despite 60'ing worse. The corvette used to run high 1.9s to 2.1s in the 60' with street radials.

I only got 2 runs in tonight, and on the second run, I treed much better with a .0547 reaction, and I really tried to slip the clutch, but these tires just weren't having it. It ran a
60': 2.31 60',
1/8: [email protected]
1/4: [email protected]

I also recently received the dyno files and will add them momentarily.

Chris
 
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