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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Block and Tranny assistance

  • Thread starter Thread starter aka_chewy
  • Start date Start date Nov 23, 2010
A

aka_chewy

New Member
Nov 23, 2010
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0
Nov 23, 2010
#1
  • Nov 23, 2010
  • #1
I'm helping out a guy with a 67 mustang and had a couple of questions.

1. I'm trying to figure out what motor is in it. I've pulled the casting numbers off the intake manifold and exhaust manifold.
The intake manifold - D5TE-9425-TA
The exhaust manifold (pass side) - C5SE-9430-C

When I search for those numbers just through google, both show that they are a 390 part. Is it safe to assume that it's a 390 motor? I haven't found anything saying parts were interchangeable, but thought I'd check.

I've tried finding the block code but have been unsuccessful in finding it. The only thing I've found is the date code, which reads 3K18. Which based on my findings is either a 63 or 73 block casted on Oct 18th.

2. Second issue is it appears half the bell housing is missing. I've attached a picture showing what I see. Can anyone tell by the picture what's needed to cover that up?

I appreciate any info anyone has to offer. Next step is trying to figure out what tranny is in the car.
 

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D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Nov 24, 2010
#2
  • Nov 24, 2010
  • #2
Well you correctly guessed that it's a 390. The intake is a 70's part from a pickup truck and the exhaust manifold is a T-Bird part. The bottleneck in your motor is those exhaust manifolds. You might want to also check for a counterweight on the flywheel, the presence of one would indicate that it's either a 410 or a 428 motor instead of a 390. You're missing the dust cover from the front of the bellhousing. Try Mustangs Unlimited, they may stock that piece. No surprise that there's no casting numbers on the block, many late 60's FE blocks never had them.
 
A

aka_chewy

New Member
Nov 23, 2010
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Nov 24, 2010
#3
  • Nov 24, 2010
  • #3
Excellent, really appreciate the info. Any pics or description of what that counter balance might look like? Or where on the flywheel it's located. I'm going to try and crank the car over to look at it. Also going to count the teeth on the flywheel.

Third issue now is the starter isn't engaging the flywheel. It just spins. I don't hear it make contact at all. Might need to read up on shimming the starter to see if that might help.
 

dagenham

Member
May 23, 2010
100
3
19
Duncannon PA
Nov 24, 2010
#4
  • Nov 24, 2010
  • #4
Look up at the block where the starter bolts up and there might be casting numbers there.
I will bet that the bendix is not working on the starter. Ford didnt use shims that I ever heard of or saw listed anywhere.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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0
south louisiana
Nov 24, 2010
#5
  • Nov 24, 2010
  • #5
dagenham said:
Look up at the block where the starter bolts up and there might be casting numbers there.
.
Click to expand...

There won't be any. I looked again at his pics and I DO see the external ribs cast into the early 70's blocks.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Nov 24, 2010
#6
  • Nov 24, 2010
  • #6
aka_chewy said:
Excellent, really appreciate the info. Any pics or description of what that counter balance might look like? Or where on the flywheel it's located. I'm going to try and crank the car over to look at it. Also going to count the teeth on the flywheel.

Third issue now is the starter isn't engaging the flywheel. It just spins. I don't hear it make contact at all. Might need to read up on shimming the starter to see if that might help.
Click to expand...

If there's a counterweight there, you will not miss it. It'll be welded to the flexplate.
 
A

aka_chewy

New Member
Nov 23, 2010
5
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0
Nov 24, 2010
#7
  • Nov 24, 2010
  • #7
Thanks fellas. Looks like I'll have some looking to do this weekend.

Thanks again
 
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