Progress Thread Block transplant (and more)

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

Noobz347 said:
I'm just gonna toss this out there because I don't know how critical is is for aluminum heads but...

Those bolts are torque to yield and two different diameter bolts torqued to the same spec, are not even.

I understand. Albeit, the head is already cinched down entirely on its installation prior to all this. It’s not like I removed the stud and the corner of the head lifted. But there’s heat cycles to follow so who knows. If I cinch this down in the ballpark I think it will be fine. That’s with a prayer of course….

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

By the way I don’t think this bolt I bought from the pull out drawer at the local hardware store is TTY.

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

Gotta pull the header for assembly clearance either way so I’m working on that while I wait for special drill bit and tap. 27/64” bit and a 6” long 1/2x13 tap.

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

The diameter of the washer surface on the bolt was about 1mm bigger than the machined surface on the head. I used a bench grinder to take a little off the bolt washer so it fits. Glad I measured it

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

I'm looking to see if I can find a 1/2" stud. I could buy an entire kit but I bet with some searching I should be able to find a single comparable fastener.

Anyone think a 1/2" stud would be better than a bolt in this situation?

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

Honestly, these kits are cheaper than I thought. I'll probably spring for one just to get a fastener I know was made for the job.

Ford 351W Windsor 12 Point Chromoly Cylinder Head Stud Kit

SpecsBrand:SpeedmasterPart Number:PCE279.1012Part Type:Cylinder Head FastenerFastener Style:StudHead Style:12-pointFastener Material:8740 chromolyFastener Finish:Black oxideWashers Included:YesCut to Fit:NoQuantity:Sold as a kit.DescriptionSpeedmaster cylinder head fasteners are made from...

www.speedmaster79.com

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

Wait, someone just warned me about the Speed master quality

JD1964 · Oct 21, 2026

I’m gonna splurge for an ARP 351 stud kit. If I ever pull the head I can always change to a time sert back to 7/16 then I’ll have a complete ARP 351 stud kit for sale. If it holds it holds.

Noobz347 · Oct 21, 2026

I have a stud kit on mine.

Lever even heard the engine [think] about a head leak.

JD1964 · Oct 23, 2026

I did a spark plug resistance test while waiting for parts and tools. Here’s the results. Autolite 3924 plugs with low mileage. Do these numbers look ok?

By the way, that one with the highest resistance is also that one that was darker than the others.

JD1964 · Oct 23, 2026

Here’s the threaded hole finished. I’m demonstrating with the bolt but waiting for ARP stud which is what I’m using. The drilling and tapping turned out easier than expected

View: https://youtu.be/GDUMJMHH0C4?is=c1ivUyVvehDRDJWZ

JD1964 · Oct 24, 2026

I have a question on spark plug gap. If I’m fine tuning NA, should my plug gap be greater like .045 for instance, then reduce gap to .35 when I change over to boosted configuration?

Bib36` · Oct 24, 2026

well the stud kit was a better option on mine

Noobz347 · Oct 25, 2026

JD1964 said:
I have a question on spark plug gap. If I’m fine tuning NA, should my plug gap be greater like .045 for instance, then reduce gap to .35 when I change over to boosted configuration?

You're looking to get it setup for boost. I'd leave the plugs gapped at what they would be for boost and getting running it's best with that plug gap.

JD1964 · Oct 25, 2026

I picked up a set of NGK BKR6E spark plugs (Autolite 3924 equivalent) and did a resistance test on them. The readings are lower and more consistent than the Autolite 3924. I not going to change plugs yet. First I want to do a data log to see if swapping O2’s side to side changes anything.

NGK on the left and Autolite on the right

4760 ……….6770
4710 ………..7250
4590………..6760
4920………..6240
4890………..6650
5420………..6680
4990………..7050
4620…………7010

JD1964 · Oct 27, 2026

Ok, my bubba repair is done and now in the hands of the tensile strength gods. 1/2” ARP stud installed finger tight using ARP tread sealer on the threads into the block and ARP fastener assembly lube on the upper threads , washer and nut face. The Snap on torque wrench gave its nice audible “click” at 75 ft/lbs on the nut. I’m going to let the tread sealer set up a little before I put the coolant back in. Time will tell but I think I lucked out this time.

JD1964 · Oct 29, 2026

I really should’ve checked this first before I went as far as putting the half inch stud in. Anyway, that click that I heard in the post I described earlier that I thought was the threads pulling, well it was worse. The block is cracked. Just discovered it when pouring coolant back in.

Noobz347 · Oct 29, 2026

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooes!

JD1964 · Oct 29, 2026

First idea maybe

https://ebay.io/m/SRHV68

Noobz347 · Oct 29, 2026

I honestly hate this part particularly, for people actively planning for boost when something like this is discovered.

Progress Thread Block transplant (and more)

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

New Member

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

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