Progress Thread finally tuning (and more)

[JD1964]

I'm just gonna toss this out there because I don't know how critical is is for aluminum heads but...

Those bolts are torque to yield and two different diameter bolts torqued to the same spec, are not even.

I understand. Albeit, the head is already cinched down entirely on its installation prior to all this. It’s not like I removed the stud and the corner of the head lifted. But there’s heat cycles to follow so who knows. If I cinch this down in the ballpark I think it will be fine. That’s with a prayer of course….

 

[JD1964]

By the way I don’t think this bolt I bought from the pull out drawer at the local hardware store is TTY.

 

[JD1964]

Gotta pull the header for assembly clearance either way so I’m working on that while I wait for special drill bit and tap. 27/64” bit and a 6” long 1/2x13 tap.

 

[JD1964]

The diameter of the washer surface on the bolt was about 1mm bigger than the machined surface on the head. I used a bench grinder to take a little off the bolt washer so it fits. Glad I measured it

 

[JD1964]

I'm looking to see if I can find a 1/2" stud. I could buy an entire kit but I bet with some searching I should be able to find a single comparable fastener.

Anyone think a 1/2" stud would be better than a bolt in this situation?

 

[JD1964]

Honestly, these kits are cheaper than I thought. I'll probably spring for one just to get a fastener I know was made for the job.

Ford 351W Windsor 12 Point Chromoly Cylinder Head Stud Kit

SpecsBrand:SpeedmasterPart Number:PCE279.1012Part Type:Cylinder Head FastenerFastener Style:StudHead Style:12-pointFastener Material:8740 chromolyFastener Finish:Black oxideWashers Included:YesCut to Fit:NoQuantity:Sold as a kit.DescriptionSpeedmaster cylinder head fasteners are made from...

www.speedmaster79.com

 

[JD1964]

Wait, someone just warned me about the Speed master quality

 

[JD1964]

I’m gonna splurge for an ARP 351 stud kit. If I ever pull the head I can always change to a time sert back to 7/16 then I’ll have a complete ARP 351 stud kit for sale. If it holds it holds.

 

[Noobz347]

I have a stud kit on mine.

Lever even heard the engine [think] about a head leak.

 

[JD1964]

I did a spark plug resistance test while waiting for parts and tools. Here’s the results. Autolite 3924 plugs with low mileage. Do these numbers look ok?

By the way, that one with the highest resistance is also that one that was darker than the others.

 

[JD1964]

Here’s the threaded hole finished. I’m demonstrating with the bolt but waiting for ARP stud which is what I’m using. The drilling and tapping turned out easier than expected


View: https://youtu.be/GDUMJMHH0C4?is=c1ivUyVvehDRDJWZ

 

[JD1964]

I have a question on spark plug gap. If I’m fine tuning NA, should my plug gap be greater like .045 for instance, then reduce gap to .35 when I change over to boosted configuration?

 

[Bib36`]

well the stud kit was a better option on mine

 

[Noobz347]

I have a question on spark plug gap. If I’m fine tuning NA, should my plug gap be greater like .045 for instance, then reduce gap to .35 when I change over to boosted configuration?

You're looking to get it setup for boost. I'd leave the plugs gapped at what they would be for boost and getting running it's best with that plug gap.

 

[JD1964]

I picked up a set of NGK BKR6E spark plugs (Autolite 3924 equivalent) and did a resistance test on them. The readings are lower and more consistent than the Autolite 3924. I not going to change plugs yet. First I want to do a data log to see if swapping O2’s side to side changes anything.

NGK on the left and Autolite on the right

4760 ……….6770
4710 ………..7250
4590………..6760
4920………..6240
4890………..6650
5420………..6680
4990………..7050
4620…………7010