Bolts or Studs

If it is a stock style motor on something that does not have a extreme cylinder pressure (blower, n2O, high compression) the bolts are fine.

Then go ahead and spring for the studs so you don't have to worry about it later...

But other than that the bolts are fine...

Yeah, studs are much better. Just don't overtorque because they can cause block distortion. 70 ft-lbs is what I always torque to and then an additional 5 ft-lbs on the long studs.

i used bolts and i had problems with my long tubes blowing gaskets..............

GT Trooper said:

You guys have any idea where I can get detailed instructions on how to adjust roller rockers?

Click to expand...

www.flowtechinduction.com and click on "Tech Info"...or I'll just post it for you...this is how I did it my first time every doing it and it all worked out This is assuming you have stud mounted roller rockers...

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.

2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.

3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.

4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.

Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.

Good Luck

Ped. mout or Stud

Crane Cams has a bunch of installation instructions or their site. www.cranecams.com

Ped. mount or stud will work.

GT Trooper said:

Thanks for the info. This is all new to me and I'm hoping it goes well. I'm a little concerned about this whole rocker adjustment thing.

Click to expand...

Are your roller rockers studmounted or pedestal mounted (stock style)...?

The instructions I gave above are for the studmounted rockers...as I pointed it out in that post...

It really does seem like "work" but it is easy...it just takes a bit of time...like I said I had never did it before and I got it to "work" the first time/second time/third time/etc...

Just don't overtighten your valve cover bolts