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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Bone stock GT 1/4

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jbauer
  • Start date Start date May 24, 2008
J

Jbauer

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#1
  • May 24, 2008
  • #1
I went to the track for the first time last week,
This is my second car, and my first time launching a RWD car.
The car is bone stock

17" Factory wheels.

R/T: .695
60" 2.4
1/8: 9.4
1/8 MPH: 77.15
1000: 12.176
1/4: 14.45
@ 100.69 MPH

About the night: it was about 75 degrees out, and the track was about a 45 minute drive. It wasn't all that humid. I ran 100.4-.6 or so MPH consistantly, that is very high IMO- i never knew mustangs trapped that high on a quarter mile.

I beat everything i ran that night, including a turbo Hatch civic, and A GTO ON DRAG RADIALS haha- i isht you not.

What are these cars suppose to run? From what i've heard, the 1/4 i ran is what NON PI 4.6 run

The problem i have is that i get like NO weight transfer, even my friend who was on the side was like 'wtf, your car has like no squat when you take off" And i'm launching at like 2600 RPMs and full throttle in like 2 seconds. I remember, when i had my factory springs, i would feel the car squat and i could get a quick glimpse upwards, now after the Sportlines, its like the car stays there really rigid and just spins the tires.

 
J

Jbauer

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#2
  • May 24, 2008
  • #2
 

Winters98GT

Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!
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May 24, 2008
#3
  • May 24, 2008
  • #3
your wheelspin is inflating your MPH.
 
J

Jbauer

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May 24, 2008
#4
  • May 24, 2008
  • #4
Thats what I figured.

Right now, i'm running stock shocks, if i get adjustable shocks, and put the front and rear to the lowest setting, would i get more weight transfer than i am now?

Also, i'm running 17" wheels. Will going to the factory wheels that came with it, ( i think they were 15 or 16?) make a noticable diffrence in the 1/4?
 

Winters98GT

Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!
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May 24, 2008
#5
  • May 24, 2008
  • #5
the springs will hurt you a little bit. Adjustable fronts do help, as well as the backs. The stock rims are 16's, with a bit more sidewall but lacking in the width.

I would proboly bypass the shocks/struts, and go ahead and get a used set of 94-04 17 inch 5lug mustang wheels, slap a set of drag radials on it and your car will be running 13.90's to 14.1's all day. Shocks and struts are a good mod, and you're going to need them with the springs at some point, but Id wait till you need them
 
J

Jbauer

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#6
  • May 24, 2008
  • #6
Well, i think i already do need the shocks and struts. They aren't blown yet, but everytime i go over a bump, the car will bounce higher than it should. I doubt its because the struts are blown, because they feel stiff, rigid and they dont shift weight or anything when i brake. I believe its because they are extending past their intended design. The bounce (for example, when driving over metal ridges on bridges) is severe enough to make me cough or spill my morning coffee.


A question about drag radials, This is my DD, i dont really feel like having to rebuild a diffrential as i dont have the time with school and all, and i always manage to screw builds up.

If i get Drag Radials, and i DONT do a burn out, will they still grab the same or better than regular summer or all season tires? i ask because i want 305 35 18s for my FR500s when i get them, but i can only get them in drag radials, and i dont want them if i get WORSE traction with them if i dont do a burn out.
 

Black_02_GT

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May 24, 2008
#7
  • May 24, 2008
  • #7
i would think launching something like bfg kdw or kdw 2s at the track from say the 2500 rpm you would have the slight wheel spin but for the most part it would be beneficial. Lower wheel spin would be lower 60 foots resulting in lower ets and mph... you could probably pull a better time on the street tires too either way. if you're dumping it at 2600 then going WOT after like 2 seconds of course you're gonna spin. Just gotta be easy with it
Oh and about the not doing a burnout, if you go with like nitto drag radials and arent wanting to do a burnout you might as well forget it... just stick with some nice good quality street tires, like i mentioned BFG because it doesnt really matter TOO much at the track if street tires are hot, you turn em over a few time to get the junk off and let it rip.
 
J

Jbauer

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#8
  • May 24, 2008
  • #8
Well, no ofcourse i didn't drop the clutch. I slipped it for a bit till i felt i'd have traction.

Part of the problem is that i cant hear my damn exhaust. I've got like 20 cars behind me revving their engines, some A hole in a honda doing a burnout on my 6, and the guy next to me is bouncing off his rev limiter, and i'm sitting there with my stock exhaust.

So the drag radials have to be warmed up or they're worse than street tires? I wanted them because the tire size i want is only found in DR !
 

Winters98GT

Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!
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May 24, 2008
#9
  • May 24, 2008
  • #9
I've made around 150 passes on drag radials, all with the stock rear diff on my two cars. Im not saying that you dont risk breaking something, because I have personally witnessed seen it happen. However, the 8.8 is not like the stock fbody rear end, it will take a bit of abuse before it lets go.

As mentioned above, might as well forget the nittos if you dont want to do a burnout. Nittos require a very good burnout to hook up well. Ive gone through 4-6 sets of nittos, and I am on my first set of bfg drag radials. There is absolutely no comparisson. Ill never touch nittos again. Nittos do not hook any better than a street tire without lowering the tire pressure and getting them warmed up.
 
J

Jbauer

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#10
  • May 24, 2008
  • #10
Ahh OK.

What about BFG Drag Radials with out being warmed up, do they hook better or atleast as well as street tires?

I really don't want to have to do a burn out.. really, i want them for size reasons more than anything.

Also, how is 14.45 for a 1/4 on a new edge? what would a good driver run?
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
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Aug 10, 2002
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May 24, 2008
#11
  • May 24, 2008
  • #11
#1....this is not a Tech Post. Moving to Talk

#2....
Jbauer said:
What are these cars suppose to run? From what i've heard, the 1/4 i ran is what NON PI 4.6 run
Click to expand...

the "Search" button is your friend.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=750390
 
J

Jbauer

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Jan 20, 2008
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May 24, 2008
#12
  • May 24, 2008
  • #12
Thanks, i've used the search function, but i guess i didn't type in the right thing, that link is exactly what i was looking for.
 

Black_02_GT

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Mississippi
May 24, 2008
#13
  • May 24, 2008
  • #13
2nd time ever at the track i ran a 14.2 on kumhos and a 2.2 60' soooooo that's still pretty bad but leaves room for improvement with better tires/ launch techniques
2nd night i had my new bfgs i busted my rear end on the street but its all good. upgrades anyone?!
 
J

Jbauer

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May 25, 2008
#14
  • May 25, 2008
  • #14
If you ran a 14.2 bone stock, i'd say you dont need much improvement at all..
 

Black_02_GT

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May 25, 2008
#15
  • May 25, 2008
  • #15
13.9- 14.0 with the bfgs i got now the 14.2 run was like a 9.1 or 9.2 1/8 with a 2.2 60'. heck winters is running like 8.8-8.9s with the npi , so ya. that shows PLENTY of room for improvement!
 

BurningRubber

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Dec 6, 2004
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#16
  • May 25, 2008
  • #16
Your MPH isnt bad, thats right where a stockish 99+ GT should trap.

Your ET will improve once you get off the line harder.

I had the same problem you did, my car wouldnt transfer weight worth anything and it just spun. Now I have different springs and am hoping to see even a little improvment.
 
B

big T

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May 25, 2008
#17
  • May 25, 2008
  • #17
Manual...14.0, auto 14.2-.4 on avg.
 
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