bout to give up!

DDSTANG94

New Member
Dec 9, 2006
465
2
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FRASER, MICHIGAN
:bang: :nonono: Ok i have had like 5, ya that's right 5, king cobra clutches in my car in the past year or so and i keep getting chatter when it heats up, also i can smell it burning up when i get on it, i know it was installed properly and i used a brad new fly wheel and all new bolts/dowels, flywheel bolts got thread sealer.....WHATS GOING ON. Every time they take the old clutch out for inspection it has height spots. I have also had 3 different tranies in the car 2 form auto zone..both defective, now one from D@D and it is making weird nosies..:bang:
 
what kind of cable are you running and do you have a firewall adjuster,clutch quadrant or running stock quadrant and cable...how does the throw out bearing look when you replace clutch. clutch could be out of adjustment or stock quadrant could be defective not allowing clutch to fully disengage..and have you changed the pressure plate in every install.
 
maybe its time to ditch the KC clutches...
get a different firewall adjuster, quadrant and cable. steeda sells a nice kit with all three.

That is what I've been thinking as well :)

It has been said .....

If you want different results than what you have always gotten :banana:
You gotta do sumpin different :Word:

The talk of issues with cable, quadrant, adjuster, etc, also makes sense :shrug:

Good Luck and let us know what you find out to be the prob :)

Grady
 
Being mis-adjusted without enough pedal freeplay would cause premature wear and possible hot spots from constant slippage. Also, if it isnt engaging fully and clamping tight to the flywheel, then Im sure it would make some chatter. Im just a novice with all this, but before installing my new clutch, my old clutch used to be very jerky and chattery when engaging. I took it out to find hot spots on the flywheel and major wear on the disk. I bought the firewall adjuster, adjustable quadrant, and adjustable cable as well, and have had nothing but smooth launches and no problems with my new KC clutch!
 
OK so i have always noticed my clutch engages kinda high, and i would get "over rev" i would give it gas in between shifts before the clutch was engaged, causing it to hop and " thud" into gear. So do u guys think that its not engaging all the way due to it engaging to high off the floor? which cable kit is the best, i hear the aftermarket ones tend to break? and the mm universal one may be to long? how do u adjust it to engage more towards the floor? Engaging it more to the floor will guarantee full engagement right?
 
OK so i have always noticed my clutch engages kinda high, and i would get "over rev" i would give it gas in between shifts before the clutch was engaged, causing it to hop and " thud" into gear. So do u guys think that its not engaging all the way due to it engaging to high off the floor? which cable kit is the best, i hear the aftermarket ones tend to break? and the mm universal one may be to long? how do u adjust it to engage more towards the floor? Engaging it more to the floor will guarantee full engagement right?

Subscribing...

Also, I was told to make sure it engages half way...about at the brake pedal... so that's what I did. I was also told drive it like a granny until you hit 500 -600 miles or you could kill it...
 
OK so i have always noticed my clutch engages kinda high, and i would get "over rev" i would give it gas in between shifts before the clutch was engaged, causing it to hop and " thud" into gear. So do u guys think that its not engaging all the way due to it engaging to high off the floor? which cable kit is the best, i hear the aftermarket ones tend to break? and the mm universal one may be to long? how do u adjust it to engage more towards the floor? Engaging it more to the floor will guarantee full engagement right?

As far as the cable many reccomend the MM specific one ($$) or a Ford cable. I am still running my stock cable... it didn't move in the sleeve very good so i sprayed in some penetrating oil and all is good now.

As for the FWA and quadrant... Many opinions out there. I have the Fiore microclick that I understand is hard to find now. I went with this due to the reccomendations from others. As such I have not yet needed to re-adjust it (23k miles ago).

Any adjustable quadrant will allow you to change where the clutch engages off the floor. It is personal preference as long as it is fully engaged.

Good luck. so far I have had great luck with my set-up (KC clutch) and I did baby it for about 1000 miles then waited till about 2000 miles before really abusing it. But I drive 100 miles a day commuting so waiting was easy...
 
if you wanna know what can cause a clutch to chatter can be a few things. mines chatters but i havent went through clutchs like crazy 1 in the past 3 1/2years. oil on the clutch can be one im sure you would notice oil on the floor. another is your motor mounts or your trans mounts (motor mounts are my problem), a syptom of that would be occasonally blown header gaskets (not necessarily though). here is off a site i just looked up.
Flywheel has excessive run-out.
Flywheel was not resurfaced or improperly resurfaced before the new clutch was installed.
Damaged or excessively worn CV joints.
Bad U-joints in driveshaft or U-joints misaligned.
Excessive backlash in differential.
Excessive driveline angle.
Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts.
The use of an aggressive clutch disc designed for racing.
Defective pressure plate and/or disc.
Disc has inadequate marcel (not enough cushion between the friction facing).
Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings.
Worn or damaged clutch linkage.
Bent pressure plate assembly and/or disc.
Improperly tuned engine.
Worn or damaged engine mounts or transmission mounts.

goodluck
 
It looks like everyone has the adjustment issues covered here, but I just thought of one more thing to add. When the clutches were installed, what method was used to torque down the pressure plate? If it wasn't done in a star pattern, you could warp the pressure plate and cause the same issues you're having now when it's engaging incorrectly. Also, what torque specs did you use? IIRC, it should be 12-24 lb. ft. of torque on the bolts.
 
my mechanic looked up all the torque specs and such, i drove the car today and payed close attention to where the clutch engaged, it was just at or below the brake pedal, that's where its supposed to be right? And i was on the freeway and down shifted into 3rd and gave it wot and it began to smell, but it didnt seem to slip?
 
The smell is after installing a new clutch? I didnt notice a smell after installing mine, but maybe some do? The clutch sounds like its engaging at about the same pedal release area as mine. How is your freeplay? I have about 3/4 inch of play in my pedal before it goes taught. I believe I read that was the proper amount before I set mine up... Hopefully your tech cleaned everything well, and kept his hands clean. If not, that smell could be possible oils or grease or something that was on his hands?
 
my release sounds exactly like yours so i dont think it the adjustment of the cable. And my mehicanic is VER VERY meticulous about cleanliness of parts so I'm at a loss? By the way it is very smooth with no chatter when i first drive it after its heated up is when i get chatter, it doesnt chatter till i get to the top of the release of the pedal. When i put it in second gear its seems like very harsh engagement with a lot of movment??