• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Braided hose ^%!@%$#

  • Thread starter Thread starter Edbert
  • Start date Start date May 12, 2005

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
May 12, 2005
#1
  • May 12, 2005
  • #1
Well, I got my package with ~$300 worth of tube/hose and fittings and got started. Let me first say that the 1/2 inch hose and -8AN fittings were a breeze, they've passed the pressure check and I got them right the first time

But...the 3/8 inch hose and -6AN fittings are a total no-go. Everytime I try to get the red hose end over the braid it frays and "grows" to the extent that I cannot pinch it in there. My fingers were all full of little holes too...ouchie! I have taped the hose before cutting it with duct tape (recommended by the instructions) and am cutting them with a high speed disc (also recommended), and the cuts look pretty clean. But the instant I take the tape off they fray, not much but enough to prohibit the red end from slipping over them. The duct tape is too thick to have any hope of sliding it in before removal, I was considering using a thinner tape like electrical (not tough/sticky enough IMO) or even clear packing tape. But my concern now is that this braided hose might be "bad", is that possible? I only think that becuase the 1/2 inch stuff was so easy. Have you ever seen or heard of such a thing?
 
T

TT670

Founding Member
Jul 10, 2001
360
9
28
May 12, 2005
#2
  • May 12, 2005
  • #2
Try using a narrow wrap of electrical tape and leave it on the hose while you slide the fitting over. Pull the tape out once the fitting is started, if you cant pull it out, just trim off whats exposed
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
May 12, 2005
#3
  • May 12, 2005
  • #3
I use electrical also. The duct tape is causing the problem. It is so sticky it is pulling apart the woven metal. After I cut mine, I use tin snips to trim the frayed metal off. Also use oil on the male end. Makes life much easier.
 
G

grego37

New Member
May 12, 2004
576
0
0
Fresno CA
May 12, 2005
#4
  • May 12, 2005
  • #4
I use electrical tape also.
dont forget the threads in the red fitting are reverse thread ( I think, if I remember correctly)

Best way to do it is clamp the red end piece into a vice , hold the hose by hand with the electrical tape still on the end (you may want to trim the tape so it's not as wide) and thread it in turning left.
good luck.
dont forget the bandaids.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
May 12, 2005
#5
  • May 12, 2005
  • #5
Thanks fellas, I'll give it a go tonight.

grego37 said:
Dont forget the bandaids.
Click to expand...

No chit! I had five bleeding finger tips at once, those little fuggers sting too, must be the oil.
 

Pakrat

Founding Member
Aug 6, 2000
3,843
0
56
Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po
May 12, 2005
#6
  • May 12, 2005
  • #6
I don't know what braided kit you are using, but I had added the cheap tin plated stainless looking kit to my car last summer, I used electrical tape too and I actually left it on underneath and then slipped the anodized casing right over it all. I cut them all with metal snips also. As I recall the only real bugger to fit was the bypass hose, the space is so narrow in between that getting a fitting on both ends took some work.

BTW if the fitting are aluminum like mine were i also recall having to open them up very carefully and then putting them on after and closing them again real carefully as opposed to slipping it over the hose prior to assembly.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
May 12, 2005
#7
  • May 12, 2005
  • #7
These are what I bought:



The red part slips over the end of the hose on the outside and the blue part fits inside the rubber part on the inside, then they screw together sandwiching the hose and making the seal sort of like in a compression fitting.
 
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
May 12, 2005
#8
  • May 12, 2005
  • #8
when i worked at super shops many years ago we always used electrical tape to wrap it, then cut through the middle of the tape and just left the tape on when we installed the fitting, there wasn't enough tape left to effect the seal in anyway but it sure made life easier when installing the fitting
 

67P51

New Member
May 2, 2005
29
0
2
May 12, 2005
#9
  • May 12, 2005
  • #9
Hose Ends

What I have done is use electrical wire shrink tube to hold the ends together. It really holds the braid tight and can usually be left in place,just pick a nice color.
I am an aircraft mechanic and my shop purchases hose fittings from Aircraft Spruce. They have several catalogs and lots of cool stuff for street machines.
Good website
 

jes72mustang

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
224
1
0
S. Central PA
May 12, 2005
#10
  • May 12, 2005
  • #10
I have to ditto what the others have said, ditch the duct tape, too sticky. I used electrical tape as other have said and I left it on some of the ends and removed it on others, mixed results. on the ends where I left it, I trimmed the exposed tape with and exacto knife to be flush with the fitting. Also if you take the tape off before assembling, you can use a very fine screw driver( like a jewelers) and push the frays into the fitting.

I have only worked with 3/8 and AN-6 fittings so far. because of the cost I am doing it a little at a time. Started with the fuel line from the pump to the carb. I think I an going to do the water lines to the heater core next.
 

blown65

Founding Member
Jul 7, 1999
1,938
4
39
Queen Creek Arizona
May 12, 2005
#11
  • May 12, 2005
  • #11
Electrical tape and duct tape both are bad choices.

That tape that has the fiber stuff in it is best. Not sure what ya call it, kinda see thru but has the string like stuff in it. Anyhow, works the best.
 
L

limey66

Member
Sep 23, 2004
408
0
16
Northampton, England
May 13, 2005
#12
  • May 13, 2005
  • #12
I've never done this job myself, but can't you make a cone of paper or something thin, slide the red fitting over and back up the hose, make the cut in the usual manner and then slide the red fitting back into place - the frayed bits of braid shouldn't give you any grief then (except when they get caught in the threads...)
 
T

TT670

Founding Member
Jul 10, 2001
360
9
28
May 13, 2005
#13
  • May 13, 2005
  • #13
blown65 said:
Electrical tape and duct tape both are bad choices.

That tape that has the fiber stuff in it is best. Not sure what ya call it, kinda see thru but has the string like stuff in it. Anyhow, works the best.
Click to expand...

Yes.. the fiber reinforced packaging tape. It works great, forgot about that.
 

2nd Mustang

Founding Member
Feb 24, 2002
2,488
0
46
Southern California
May 13, 2005
#14
  • May 13, 2005
  • #14
I was an aircraft hydraulic repair tech in the USAF a longggggggg time ago. I don't remember using any tapes when making hoses, but then again, I am old.
 
6

66HertzClone

New Member
Aug 24, 2004
428
0
0
Central New Jersey
May 13, 2005
#15
  • May 13, 2005
  • #15
I had trouble with #6 hose until I followed these instructions. I used the nylon strapping tape, and left about 1/8 inch of it still on the hose.

http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-28.html

I am sure this will help you, following these instructions I was able to assemble an end in about 3 minutes.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
May 16, 2005
#16
  • May 16, 2005
  • #16
I can't say I did each end in 3 minutes, probably 7 or more each. But I did finish the job. Here's the photos.

http://www.edbert.net/plumbing.htm

...and one sample...

 

Attachments

  • plumb6.webp
    137.6 KB · Views: 181

2nd Mustang

Founding Member
Feb 24, 2002
2,488
0
46
Southern California
May 16, 2005
#17
  • May 16, 2005
  • #17
Edbert said:
Here's the photos.

http://www.edbert.net/plumbing.htm
Click to expand...

Nice job.
 
G

gp001

Founding Member
Jun 30, 2001
4,401
0
66
So. Cal.
May 16, 2005
#18
  • May 16, 2005
  • #18
Looks good Edbert.

We use masking tape when making braided lines. We also have a slick trick using a small piece of 1/2' pvc pipe for the install. Leather gloves are also very useful

Also, what are the braided lines connecting to? If hardlines I would suggest making a plate the mounts to the core support and running bulkhead connectors
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
May 17, 2005
#19
  • May 17, 2005
  • #19
gp001 said:
Also, what are the braided lines connecting to? If hardlines I would suggest making a plate the mounts to the core support and running bulkhead connectors
Click to expand...
The braided ones in the picture above are connecting to other braided ones that go straight to the transmission.



The top line/hose has a small billet manifold that holds my trans temp sending unit, I don;t have a good picture of it yet, the one i took is pretty blurry and I did not post it. Here's what the device looks like (I used AN fittings on it also):

 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
May 17, 2005
#20
  • May 17, 2005
  • #20
Did you think about slipping both red ends onto the one cut end before making other cuts? It's been a while, but when making several short lines, I swear this was the way we did it. Got one good end and slipped them all on in alternating positions and then just slid them up and down the line after making measurements and cutting them. You just slide them up to the blues once they're installed. I think we zippered just the braid off about an inch from the end and then taper rolled electrical tape from the end back over the braid. Yeah, you waste an inch or two of line, but it seemed worth it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
2001 v6 heater hose quick connect question
  • mnky99
  • Sep 24, 2025
  • SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
Replies
8
Views
463
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech Sep 26, 2025
mnky99
M
A definitive answer to the question of how much height Energy Suspension isolators add
  • 2000xp8
  • May 20, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
244
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 20, 2025
2000xp8
M
Progress Thread mnky99 2001 V6 evap core, ac compressor, heater core replacement
  • mnky99
  • Sep 5, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
1
Views
424
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Sep 5, 2025
mnky99
M
E
Finished my Fox Hydroboost Install - Tips
  • Engineer Duane
  • Apr 9, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 5, 2025
Engineer Duane
E
What's your tow rig?
  • LILCBRA
  • May 31, 2026
  • Other Auto Tech
Replies
3
Views
67
Other Auto Tech May 31, 2026
LILCBRA
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?