brake bleeding

modem

New Member

Aug 17, 2003

34

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toledo, ohio

May 1, 2006

#1

• May 1, 2006

• #1

I just removed my calipers and replaced my pads and clean my calipers and everything. I put them back on and was bleeding them and it seems like the brake wont get any harder to push in. The hose when bleeding them was completely free of air ive used about 8-10oz of brake fluid. Any idea why it doesnt seem like i am getting anywhere? Or do i just need to keep bleeding them? Never had this problem before always gone very smoothly. Thanks.

 

B

bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

3,612

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69

santa barbara, CA

May 1, 2006

#2

• May 1, 2006

• #2

did you let the master cylinder run dry? do you have ABS? if the master cylinder run dry and there is ABS you will need a scan tool to cycle the solenoids. also are you following the entire bleeding procedure? according to my guide at work, you bleed the master, then RR, LR, RF, LF, master, RR, LR, RF,LF.

 

modem

New Member

Aug 17, 2003

34

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toledo, ohio

May 2, 2006

#3

• May 2, 2006

• #3

The master never went dry. The calipers where completely dry though because i took them completely off to clean them up nice. How do you bleed the master? Was unaware of that.

 

Outlaw97GT

Member

Sep 10, 2005

234

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Redneckville, Tx

May 2, 2006

#4

• May 2, 2006

• #4

If the master never went dry, You shouldnt have to bleed the master.
I had the same problem once on my 91 Formula, try gravity bleeding all 4 calipers. Its messy but it should work.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

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May 2, 2006

#5

• May 2, 2006

• #5

When you removed the caliper did you plug the brake line?

Did you use new crush washers on the banjo bolts?

 

modem

New Member

Aug 17, 2003

34

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toledo, ohio

May 2, 2006

#6

• May 2, 2006

• #6

No I did not plug the brake line, did not know you had to plug the line. Could that be the reason why it is not getting any presser back into the line? Should i bleed all the brakes then? What exactly are the crush washers?

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

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May 2, 2006

#7

• May 2, 2006

• #7

You are screwed if you got air in the ABS module... By screwed I mean you will be towing your car to the stealership. In the Haynes manual it says to plug the brake lines when removing caliper to avoid air being drawn back up into bad places.

There is a washer on the banjo bolt, it is not re-useable. Actually I think the entire banjo bolt AND washer are not re-useable. Not sure though...

 

Dorsai

New Member

Aug 13, 2005

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Connecticut

May 2, 2006

#8

• May 2, 2006

• #8

Go buy more brake fluid and keep bleeding, as long as air didnt get too far up the lines you should get a firm pedal. If you go through a big container of brake fluid and still no hard pedal then your gonna have to bleed the MS like the others said.

 

modem

New Member

Aug 17, 2003

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toledo, ohio

May 2, 2006

#9

• May 2, 2006

• #9

okay thanks. do you think i should bleed the rears too? wasnt sure since i only did the front and i know your only supposed to have to the ones that you remove

 

modem

New Member

Aug 17, 2003

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toledo, ohio

May 2, 2006

#10

• May 2, 2006

• #10

I think i will keep trying to bleed them, do you think i should bleed the rears even though i didnt disconnect those?

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

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May 2, 2006

#11

• May 2, 2006

• #11

Well, if you have more than 30k miles on the car might as well bleed them all. Bdcardinal alread posted the order to bleed in and it starts with the right rear. You start farthest away from brake resevior and work your way towards it doing the driver's front last.

Installing speed bleeders or using pump extractors makes bleeding a lot easier.

 

B

bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

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santa barbara, CA

May 2, 2006

#12

• May 2, 2006

• #12

i always bleed the master on a car thats so easy to do such as our mustangs. there are 2 bleeder screws on the master. just have someone else with you keeping an eye on the master.