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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Brake Bleeding

  • Thread starter Thread starter candphall
  • Start date Start date Jun 6, 2011

candphall

Active Member
Jun 8, 2009
488
32
49
Orlando Florida
Jun 6, 2011
#1
  • Jun 6, 2011
  • #1
I have rebuilt the brake system on my 69 mustang, discs in front drums in rear. Including lines, wheel cylinders and mastercylinder. I have bled the master cylinder prior ro installition. Being a one man operation, and on the advice of friends I purchased a Mighty Vac to handle the bleeding chores. The front discs bled like a champ. But I am having difficulty with the rears try as I might I cannot draw fluid from the resivoir to either rear wheel. All of my lines are tight and I have no leaks. I am wondering if the brake valve on the right side engine bay might be the problem, even though it had brakes prior to the rebulid. If not I will try the pump up two person method.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jun 6, 2011
#2
  • Jun 6, 2011
  • #2
try giving it a foot pump to get it started
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Jun 8, 2011
#3
  • Jun 8, 2011
  • #3
candphall said:
I have rebuilt the brake system on my 69 mustang, discs in front drums in rear. Including lines, wheel cylinders and mastercylinder. I have bled the master cylinder prior ro installition. Being a one man operation, and on the advice of friends I purchased a Mighty Vac to handle the bleeding chores. The front discs bled like a champ. But I am having difficulty with the rears try as I might I cannot draw fluid from the resivoir to either rear wheel. All of my lines are tight and I have no leaks. I am wondering if the brake valve on the right side engine bay might be the problem, even though it had brakes prior to the rebulid. If not I will try the pump up two person method.
Click to expand...


OK, so you've bench bled the MC. You do know to always start with the wheel cyl farthest from the MC, correct? This being the case, the order of bleeding is;
right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
Btw, I'm a "one man band", as well.
Now, attach a clear hose to the rt rear bleeder with the other end into a mason jar partially filled with enough fluid to submerge the hose. Open the bleeder slightly. I position myself in such a way as to be able to depress the brake while looking for the expulsion of fluid into the jar. Just have to be a little nimble. Repeat this for the other side. This should get the juices flowing.
Keep an eye on the MC fluid levels. Oh, btw, I forgot to add, between beed sessions, I usually, give the brakes a few pumps to reset. I have used the Mighty Vac in the past, but, find this "ancient" method always works fine, as well.
Good Luck!
 

candphall

Active Member
Jun 8, 2009
488
32
49
Orlando Florida
Jun 8, 2011
#4
  • Jun 8, 2011
  • #4
thanks all. I found the rear rubber hose, the only one not replaced, to be blocked. I replaced that line and now have brakes!!!!
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Jun 8, 2011
#5
  • Jun 8, 2011
  • #5
Hey Bud,

Good for you! At some point in the future, you might look into replacing your rubber lines with SS teflon coated braided hoses. Their addition made a marked difference in the transfer of applied pressure.
Happy Motoring!
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Jun 12, 2011
#6
  • Jun 12, 2011
  • #6
Phoenix, makes a nice reverse feed system I'm look at buying
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Aug 15, 2011
#7
  • Aug 15, 2011
  • #7
FYI, I just used my hvac vacuum pump to bleed my system. Some hose and a few connectors made it super easy.
 
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