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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Brake cooling ducts revisited

  • Thread starter Thread starter go-stang5.0
  • Start date Start date May 4, 2007

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
2,244
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0
Glenview,Il
May 4, 2007
#1
  • May 4, 2007
  • #1
Ok guyz for the few of you that were interested....Here are pics of my brake cooling setup. I had to remove the foglites but its worth it. Total cost of everything was $110 ish...

Backing plates and hardware and hose from Midcontinent Mustangs 75.00 shipped
2 6"x3" brake cooling ducts from Peagusus Racing $40ish shipped
Some sheetmetal screws and fender washers from home depot $5ish.

Heres a link to Midcontinent Mustangs duct kit pics and phone # (its a 1 man show...the guys name is Anthony Dail and hes a nice guy. Great to deal with and puts out a good product. Just expect about 2 weeks for delivery as he makes the caliper plates and assembles the kit AFTER you order. But this is a little side business so its to be expected).

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295546

Now heres pics from my install...

http://rides.webshots.com/album/558918680AJscxB


If anyone is interested and wants more info post up here.
 

hollywoodstang

Active Member
May 23, 2006
1,095
2
36
May 4, 2007
#2
  • May 4, 2007
  • #2
I saw those too. tell us how it is after you go to the track
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
May 4, 2007
#3
  • May 4, 2007
  • #3
What is the ID of the hose? I actually plan to autocross my stang this year even though I know its going to suck time wise. I ran my car hard after putting the 99-up PBR calipers on and they were smoking because they were so hot. I know that with the weight of the car and my pushing it hard at an autocross I'm going to experience this again, so the brake cooling ducts have been in my mind as a temp. fix until I decide my drag racing days are over and I step up to cobra brakes.
 

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
2,244
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0
Glenview,Il
May 4, 2007
#4
  • May 4, 2007
  • #4
Its a 3in hose which should be plenty. Although I dunno if your gonna get enough airflow autocrossing paul, as the speeds are relatively low. But heres the solution

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=167,49,363_73&action=product

Since you gotta remove the fog lites already...why not use the plugs for something good...those blowers linked above are 12v and about the same wattage as the foglite bulb. So all the wiring is already done for you ...just mount inline and splice the wiring .

BTW when I autocrossed the cobra brakes were fine w/street pads. First open track event I set them on fire ...and I had to drive home on the backing plates... .

Then I switched to carbotech panther+'s ($150 pad shipped) which are good to 1300 deg. F and they lasted 2 track days and I could get them to fade at the end of each session.

THe current (untested setup) is carbotech XP10's ($200 pads shipped) and are good to 1700 deg. F + the brake cooling ducts. So I think I should be set now.

Before the cooling stuff I was able to get rotors to about 1300 deg. (temp. paint verified)...I will get some new temps with the cooling when I get to the track.

The heat was also cracking rotors bad (making for some wicked pedal pulsation) and made for some fun rides home...so hopefully the cooling will help with that also.

Needless to say its been a long, expensive, and sometimes scary journey to good safe brakes but I think I'm there. Until the cam swap and dyno tune of course...
 

Bosko5.0

Active Member
May 18, 2006
1,067
0
37
longwood, FL
May 4, 2007
#5
  • May 4, 2007
  • #5
WHAT track are you talking about, dragstrip, autocross, race track(with many different turns)???
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
2,767
0
46
MA, USA
May 4, 2007
#6
  • May 4, 2007
  • #6
WOW!! 1300* !!!

BTW great link..and I was actually considering this. I now have the cobra brakes myself but I wont be auto crossing.
 

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
2,244
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0
Glenview,Il
May 5, 2007
#7
  • May 5, 2007
  • #7
Talking about race track http://www.gingermanraceway.com/

go to the link at the bottom that says TRACK SPECS and that's what it looks like.

Heres an album of me on the track last year...

http://rides.webshots.com/album/556477703NBKqRk

Yea I decided against the blower fans because taking the car to be the frame of reference (as in the air is moving instead of the car) as a rough estimate 31 mph produces just as much airflow as the fans 135cfm rating with stagnant air. Thats taking the surface area of the tube and dividing the fan rating by that, which gives a velocity for the air in ft/min which then converts to 31 mph. Now I know this isn't taking into account variables like the duct shape, the bends, and the ridges in the hose itself and when and if the flow becomes turbulent (which it probably does really quick), etc. etc.....but I dont wanna get into fluid dynamics...ugggh I hated that class. Anyways I bet above 70 mph, that fan produces enough restriction in the hose that your better off not having it at all. Now generally my speed varies between 45-110 mph on the track, with very short periods at which I am at 45 mph. Also my average speed around the track (currently, hopefully to improve) is 66-67 mph so I bet I wouldent see much improvement from the fans. However in autocrossing where the average speed is closer to 30 ish mph those fans would be quite helpful. Now if you were to add a Y connector somethere inline and add the blower there to suppliment the natural "ram air" effect without restricting it...thats a whole different story. Thats a setup I was considering, but I dont think its nescessary.

As you can see I put way too much thought into this....
 

Bosko5.0

Active Member
May 18, 2006
1,067
0
37
longwood, FL
May 5, 2007
#8
  • May 5, 2007
  • #8


brake ducts + $200 pad should work.
 
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