Brake Help

[palerider94]

Ok - I replaced the drums, put new pads, spring kit, and adjuster kit on all 4 wheels of my 1970 power drums. Also,new fluid and adjusted them. Still the pedal goes down farther than it should and it shudders when come to a hard stop - does not pull to one side or the other - stay straight just shudders. Checked pads for grease -they are clean. Thinking next thing may be alignment and/or power booster/master cylnder - any help would be appreciated. thanks

 

[headgrinder]

As far as pedal hgt are the shoes adjusted properly? Even tho they are automatic they must be initily adjusted to get good pedal feel/hgt. The shudder is it felt in pedal or steering wheel? You posted a ? about mounting drums to hub
If that were not done correctly it could cause a shudder from front end when you brake hard.I own a machine shop in sr ca. and I have seen drums on early ford /chrysler shuuder when studs are not properly swedged to hold drum to hub.

 

[palerider94]

That may be it with the hubs

How do you properly swedge the hubs to the durms? I had them removed by midas but they did not press new ones in. I just figured when you tightened the lugs that would pull them through. Although when I took the drum off again the hub seperated easily.

When shuddering the whole car vibrates the pedal feels constant though and does not vibrate. The car did do this before I redid the brakes and drums but does it worst now.

I was getting a little fustrated with the adjusters. Basically tightened till wheel stopped and then back off till spinned freely with slight amount of drag. Tried to keep track number of times to adjusted other side. Ended up just backing off till they both spun about the same.

 

[palerider94]

I forgot to mention that the hub fit in drum with no gap in back - part of the reason I did not think i need to have pressed in.

 

[headgrinder]

I have heard of using different studs and going to a loose mount of drum but you would need the right studs that allow the drum to fit snug to hub.The proper way to swedge drum on is to use a tool that just fits over threads of stud but hits the shoulder of stud above the drum/hub interface then using a hydraulic press (at least 10 ton) the stud is mushroomed over drum. this firmley mounts drum and does not allow any movement between hub/drum you then need to turn drum as the swedging operation locks drum and it needs to be trued.not to diss midas but They may not have equipment to do job properly if they didn't replace studs I am very suspicious that is part of problem. if shudder (which you say was there before)continues and is due to drum/hub fit it can crack drums. sounds like the way yu describe adjustment that you have that right.good luck

 

[palerider94]

Even though new I I had the drums turned a little and most of the shudder is gone now. It is at least the way it was before I did the brake job. Both hubs fit loosley in the drums. You're right about Midas tools though tech just beat them from back into drum with an air hammer. Still could be drum/hub combo causing the shudder but starting to think it may be something else since it did it with old drums and new. Thanks for your help.