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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Brake Installation

  • Thread starter Thread starter Danman765432
  • Start date Start date Aug 17, 2006
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
Aug 17, 2006
#1
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #1
Ok I just wanted to know if should know anything about doing my rotors and brake pads... Here is the list of parts and tell me if I am missing anything.

Summit Cross Drilled and Slotted rear/front
Duralast Gold Brake Pads

And I believe I need a C Clamp.

Also is there any tricks or tips that I would need to know for doing this task.

Thanks for reading,
-Dan
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Aug 17, 2006
#2
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #2
Danman765432 said:
Also is there any tricks or tips that I would need to know for doing this task.
Click to expand...

It's pretty straight forward. When you compress the piston (with the C-clamp), but sure your brake fluid resivor does not overflow - depending on how worn your pads are and if you've added fluid recently, by compressing the piston into the caliper you'll be forcing fluid back into the resivor. Not a big deal but just a mess if it overflows.

If you want to be fancy you can spray everything down with brakeparts cleaner beforehand to keep yourself somewhat clean.

Some people (myself included) put some thick lube on the back of the pads to keep them from squeaking. The parts store will gladly sell you some - it's just silicon grease.

Depending on the condition of your fluid it may be a good time to bleed the system as well.

Good luck.

EDIT: Hey we've got pretty similar mods - do you have any track times?
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
3,464
1
69
Syracuse, NY
Aug 17, 2006
#3
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #3
what he said


also if your brake fluid is old you might wanna change that also, many people overlook that you infact should change it every 2-3 years. it makes a big difference
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Aug 17, 2006
#4
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #4
Good advice above.

I use a spray-on tack on the backing plates. Seems to work well. Parts stores sell it.

If you use a C-clamp, I'd use a piece of wood against the inner side of the caliper to distribute the force of the clamp's head.
I have a little piston retractor that uses the brake calipers' outer-pad claw as the item it pushes against. It works well and is under 10 bucks. It's nice if you do lots of disk brake jobs.

Good luck.
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
Aug 17, 2006
#5
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #5
Has anybody used the Autozone loaner tool for the caliper piston?
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Aug 17, 2006
#6
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #6
HISSIN50 said:
If you use a C-clamp, I'd use a piece of wood against the inner side of the caliper to distribute the force of the clamp's head.
Click to expand...

I'll second that - I put a wrench or whatever is handy between the C-clamp and the piston. The idea is to push the piston in straight and not angled to one side.

I picked up some Valvoline synthetic brake fluid to flush my system out this weekend when I install my new Cobra calipers and stainless lines.
 

badstang123

New Member
Jan 17, 2006
397
0
0
Santa Clarita, CA
Aug 17, 2006
#7
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #7
Don't the rear calipers need to be turned as they are pushed back in At least when your starting them. I always have to do this on mine.
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
3,464
1
69
Syracuse, NY
Aug 17, 2006
#8
  • Aug 17, 2006
  • #8
badstang123 said:
Don't the rear calipers need to be turned as they are pushed back in At least when your starting them. I always have to do this on mine.
Click to expand...
rear yes, front no
 
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