Brake line install questions

golf4283

Active Member
May 30, 2003
1,253
1
39
Orland Park, Illinois
So im gonna be installing new hard and soft lines soon on the entire car. front is a 2008 disc conversion from Mustang Steve and rear is a Versailles swap. I am wondering now how tight to I tighten the various bolts etc that hold this system together. Obviously you don't want them loose but I don't think you want them too tight either, so what is the actual amount of tightening necessary? Also is there a certain way to seal the threads so as to not leak?

Thanks
 
So im gonna be installing new hard and soft lines soon on the entire car. front is a 2008 disc conversion from Mustang Steve and rear is a Versailles swap. I am wondering now how tight to I tighten the various bolts etc that hold this system together. Obviously you don't want them loose but I don't think you want them too tight either, so what is the actual amount of tightening necessary? Also is there a certain way to seal the threads so as to not leak?

Thanks

Don't know exactly what bolts you're referencing(?) If you are talking about the brake line fittings, run them down until snug then about 1/8 - 1/4 turn passed that. If you still have any seepage, give it another 1/8 turn. If you have to go beyond a 1/2 turn, total, after intial tightening, then there's something wrong with the tubing's inverted flare --split or collapsed.

Either SAE inverted double flares or ISO metric bubble flare fittings do not seal the brake line connections. Sealing is the function of the flare at the end of the hard lines. The only function of the hard line fittings is to put force against the tubing's flare to hold the flare tightly against the seat in the port the line is going into.

A procedure I use when fabricating and putting brake lines together is to use a thin layer of Anti-Seize on the fittings, just prior to final assembly. I apply a thin layer on the fitting's threads, leaving the first two [leading] threads exposed. If, several years from now, you have to replace something, you won't have to fight to break things loose or tear up the hex on the fittings trying to get them apart. Just be sure to wipe off any excess Anti-Seize and not get any inside the brake tubing, or inside the componet the line is going to.

This is a '65 that belongs to a friend of mine.
1. http://ultrastang.com/Images/Scanned/Steven/02.jpg

6 years ago, Steven loaned me this blue '65 so it could be used as a "guinea pig" for me to design/develop the Mk VII rear disc conversion on. Currently, I have this '65 back in my shop to experiment with some "modern" 4-wheel disc MCs I want to test and check out.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/7/stevenhaynes65ultrastanps7.jpg


In 2002, I had installed a 2.3L Fox Mustang brake booster and an SVO/Mk VII 4-wheel disc MC on the '65 during the time I adapted the Mk VII rear discs on it, and I fabricated the hard lines for the Mk VII MC:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/8145/ultrastangmastercylindean8.jpg

Everything removed to make way for the new MC and hard lines:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7893/ultrastangmastercylindeyv1.jpg

Starting the process of making new brake lines:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7999/ultrastangmastercylindeox7.jpg

Excess tubing cut off [this line started out as a straight 60"stick of 3/16" brake tubing]:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7235/ultrastangmastercylindehr6.jpg

Final line fabrication:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2100/ultrastangmastercylindele7.jpg
This is one of two lines ("In" & "Out") I had to make for a manual rear brake lock I installed inside the car.

Manual brake lock mounted and plumbed:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/686/ultrastangmastercylindemj8.jpg


Making new lines for the MC:
1. http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/4960/ultrastangmastercylindetz8.jpg

2. http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/4450/ultrastangmastercylindegs9.jpg

MC installed and plumbed:
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8523/ultrastangmastercylindevq7.jpg