Brake Lines

I have a 66, not sure how a 67 differs. I purchased one line pre bent, the long line which runs from the front to the back. Got it from NPD.

I used the original set up in the rear with block to hose to axle component.

For all other lines I bent my own, I have been bending conduit for 40 years so bending brake lines was not all that big a deal. Believe it or not I used a Harbor Freight $4.00 brake line bending tool to bend the lines, clamped the tool in a vise since it requires 3 hands to operate successfully.

I bought a double flare flaring tool from Summit and it worked great. Use a fair amount of oil and take your time and the tool does a nice job. I cracked one maybe two ends doing a flare. I did about 4-5 practice flares on old lines and scrap line before I started.

I had only one leak in the entire system.

This is not a job you can fly through, but it is not rocket science. Save your old lines for a pattern or make a pattern with 12 gauge solid copper wire then bend a new line to a match.

sparx

Right!
It is not too bad, take your time and be aware you will make a mistake, I made a few bending but I was using a very cheap tubing bender.

I think I saw some nice benders at Jegs.
Post if you have any questions.
sparx

my $.02 worth as I replaced all my '67 hard line with a stainless kit (source of kit was Classic Tube from CJP) .... for stock configuration, all lines were just about perfect except for those from the distribution block to the mstr cylinder -- those required some "tweaking" with a bender .... the fittings and flares were perfect ... word of caution -- you can double flare stainless, but that's best left to a machine as stainless tubing is fr*&%&&^* hard to flare correctly .... regular steel is OK ..... the only issue I see with mating to the flex lines is ensuring the fittings on the hard line are the correct size for the flex lines .... another caution if you use stainless - ensure the flare is absolutely centered and straight onto the seat (that "cone" thing) of the female fitting ... otherwise it will leak and the more you tighten, the more damage you'll do to the seat (typically brass) .... actually excercise that caution regardless ..... and this can be challenging for the lines at the mstr cylinder bowl ....

btw, don't overtighten !!

have fun ...

my advice would be that unless you are building a show car, use mild steel tubing, even if you get pre bent lines. the reason is that our cars were not the most accurate from the factory, and sometimes what works on one 66 stang will not work on another without a little persuasion. with mild steel lines you can do minor tubing bends and reshaping by hand. stainless steel tends to be harder to bend and rework if needed. in the end stainless steel only makes sense if you are building a show car.

I forgot to mention that, also more and more of the lines are coming with a greenish/brown coating on them for corrosion resistance. I think I had to use one or two with the coating but they are on the rear axle so are not normally visible.

sparx