Brake Pads
- Thread starter eleanor'03
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trailblazr81
Member
Get some Hawk's 
Or a nice set of Bendix. Locally I have a shop that just sells brake stuff, and its alot higher quality than Kragen, Pep Boys, etc. Usually Napa and Autozone have different levels of brake pads, from cheap POS to decent quality stuff.
Or a nice set of Bendix. Locally I have a shop that just sells brake stuff, and its alot higher quality than Kragen, Pep Boys, etc. Usually Napa and Autozone have different levels of brake pads, from cheap POS to decent quality stuff.
trailblazr81
Member
I think Pep Boys carries Hawks. I know Summit n Jegs has 'em. Theres a dealer locator on the websight. http://www.hawkperformance.com/ 
helty
some Ukrainian's enjoying a handjob via my credit
mustangtuning just started carrying Hawks if you dont mind waiting a few days for them to arrive.
ForPointSex said:
Hate to burst your bubble but there are no warped disks. What you have is friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures. What you did was over heat the pad compound and went from abrasive friction to adherent friction. You either had the wrong pad for the type of driving you were doing or did not follow the proper break in procedures for both pad and disc.
Now back to the origional topic. "What pads" Sorry but there are no pads that fit all driving. The friction material that is quiet and functions well at relatively low temperatures around town will not stop the car that is driven hard. If you attempt to drive many cars hard with the OEM pads, you will experience pad fade, friction material transfer and fluid boiling - end of discussion. The true racing pad, used under normal conditions will be noisy and will not work well at low temperatures around town. Racing pads dont work well at all on the street. They dont get hot enough and you will have less braking not more.
The question remains, what pads should be used in high performance street cars - relatively low temperature street pads or high temperature race pads? Strangely enough, in my opinion, the answer is a high performance street pad with good low temperature characteristics. The reason is simple: If we are driving really hard and begin to run into trouble, either with pad fade or boiling fluid (or both), the condition(s) comes on gradually enough to allow us to simply modify our driving style to compensate. On the other hand, should an emergency occur when the brakes are cold, the high temperature pad is simply not going to stop the car.
Two ways to get around all of this. Carry more than one type of pad and switch them on track days. Dedicate the car to track only.
joshheat25
Member
if you get aftermarket pads and have replaced them a couple of times and experience warped rotors that is because they were worn down and thin! Which caused them to warp.
Dude, I totally was not buying the "no such thing as warped rotors" stuff.TheDukeOfEarl said:
But a Google search seems to confirm your statements...
http://www.google.com/search?client...&hl=en&q=warped+rotor+myth&btnG=Google+Search
ponysarepretty
New Member
- Jul 25, 2005
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Kilgore Trout said:
I was going to tell people to go to the stoptech site, but then you toldthem... btw stoptech makes brakes for porsche
96BlueStangGT
Member
helty
some Ukrainian's enjoying a handjob via my credit
the troutmeister?.........
i dont buy into no warped rotors...having been a mechanic for some time and having to "turn" probably close to a thousand sets of rotors...i just dont buy into them not warping..i have done rotors on many many makes and models of cars with many many types of brake pads from cheap to extremely expensive...when you dial in the brake lathe you have to cut into the surface at a slow interval to determine the depth of the warp....from my experiences with metals, the pattern associated with warping is consistant to what happens to metal that has gotten hot....also the actual metalic composition of the pads is of course different from that of the rotors, if they were actually transfering material to the rotors it would be noticable when you turn the rotors on the lathe, related in terms of the pitch of sound the lathe makes as it would pass over the different materials...this however is not the case...the pitch doesnt change at all. if you've ever turned a rotor you wouldnt buy into "no warping" either...its pretty easy to see that the rotor itself is in fact able to warp under extended high heat conditions...
blackfang
Founding Member
Working in the auto field for the past 3 years, I also don't buy into the rotors don't warp theory. Juston explained it prefectly when you turn the rotors.
Well I guess you guys that have turned rotors at pepboys for a couple have seen it all...
My info came from some of the top brake people in the business. You can look at it all for your selves and decide. I posted most of the info from http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml. I also added in my own racing and machining experence. I have been a experimental machinist for the last 24 years. (TRW / Northrop) I have been racing cars for the last 22 years. I am the great nephew of Harley Earl. Father of a few cars like the Corvette, Firebird, Everything in the late 50s that had fins. I guess you could say that I have cars in my blood.
My info came from some of the top brake people in the business. You can look at it all for your selves and decide. I posted most of the info from http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml. I also added in my own racing and machining experence. I have been a experimental machinist for the last 24 years. (TRW / Northrop) I have been racing cars for the last 22 years. I am the great nephew of Harley Earl. Father of a few cars like the Corvette, Firebird, Everything in the late 50s that had fins. I guess you could say that I have cars in my blood.
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