Brake problem??

2000fordstanggt

Member

Sep 6, 2005

404

1

16

Westland, MI

Mar 29, 2007

#1

• Mar 29, 2007

• #1

I did my brakes last night and now I've got a problem with them. I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to basically slow down to a stop. I replaced the left rotor and installed new ceramic pads and I couldn't get one of the caliper bolts off on the right side so I had to just put the new pads on the right side leaving the old rotor on just so I could get my car home and fix the problem the next day.

 

gunmetal5.0

New Member

May 10, 2006

144

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0

Chico, CA

Mar 29, 2007

#2

• Mar 29, 2007

• #2

Bleed the brakes over again. You more than likely still have bubbles in the line. Bleed them as long as it takes until you no longer do, then recycle the fluid back into the reservoir. Much luck.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Mar 29, 2007

#3

• Mar 29, 2007

• #3

Speed bleeders will help a lot. They are kind of pricey though, I believe they are $6 each and you need four of course. Advance Auto should have them...

 

gunmetal5.0

New Member

May 10, 2006

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Chico, CA

Mar 29, 2007

#4

• Mar 29, 2007

• #4

That doesn't sound too pricey at all. Never heard of such a product.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

4,749

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Mar 29, 2007

#5

• Mar 29, 2007

• #5

Oh yeah, its a bleeder with a one way check valve so no air can be sucked back in. Just the fluid is pumped out.

 

gunmetal5.0

New Member

May 10, 2006

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Chico, CA

Mar 29, 2007

#6

• Mar 29, 2007

• #6

Very useful.

 

D

Dragstr05

New Member

Dec 21, 2004

643

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Stafford VA

Mar 29, 2007

#7

• Mar 29, 2007

• #7

If you're just putting on new pads and rotors, you shouldnt have to bleed the brakes. All you should have to do is pump the brakes up initially. I did have one brake job that was like that, but after a couple hard stops the problem went away.

Does the car pull to any side when the brakes are applied?

 

Mike97gt

it doe snot

Founding Member

Jan 26, 1999

10,633

7

89

the people's republic of massachusetts

Mar 30, 2007

#8

• Mar 30, 2007

• #8

why are you guys opening the brake lines to change pads.. this is NOT NEEDED..

only time the brake system should be opened is for parts replacement and for fluid flushing.

 

2000fordstanggt

Member

Sep 6, 2005

404

1

16

Westland, MI

Mar 30, 2007

#9

• Mar 30, 2007

• #9

no the car doesnt pull in any direction, and the problem wont go away from quick stops..i tried that the other day. my brake system wasnt opened at all, except from some fluid coming out of the resivor when i pushed the caliper pistons back in.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

4,749

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Mar 30, 2007

#10

• Mar 30, 2007

• #10

I just assumed he was flushing his fluid at the same time as he did the pads...

Fluid should be flushed every 2-3 years or every 30k miles.

 

twogts4us

15 Year Member

Apr 1, 2004

4,188

12

79

Dunedin, FL

Mar 30, 2007

#11

• Mar 30, 2007

• #11

gunmetal5.0 said:

Bleed the brakes over again. You more than likely still have bubbles in the line. Bleed them as long as it takes until you no longer do, then recycle the fluid back into the reservoir. Much luck.

Click to expand...

Take care in recycling brake fluid...you don't want to put dirty fluid into the system. (What goes in is clear, what comes out, after age, is dark)

 

04DarkShadowGT

Member

Jan 31, 2004

474

0

17

Fort Wayne, IN

Mar 30, 2007

#12

• Mar 30, 2007

• #12

Advanced auto also sells a one man bleeding kit which works too. I used that when I changed to my 10th anniversary brakes. It was like $7 for the kit and it worked perfectly.

 

C

cooper

New Member

Dec 9, 2005

96

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0

Mar 30, 2007

#13

• Mar 30, 2007

• #13

bleed the master cylnder, sounds like the piston is stuck. hapened to me once.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,138

17,838

224

Massachusetts

Mar 31, 2007

#14

• Mar 31, 2007

• #14

If it's a brand new rotor and pads, it's going to stop very poorly until the brakes are bedded in.

I remember the first couple times i tried to stop after doing my 13" upgrade. The pedal to the floor would barely stop the car. After i bedded in the rotors, it was biting hard.

Def make sure you change the pads on the other side. Also, if your car is a 2000 and never had the fluid flushed, now would be a good time

 

Modular_Mike

New Member

Sep 9, 2006

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0

Mar 31, 2007

#15

• Mar 31, 2007

• #15

Your brakes already have bleeders

Just get someone to work the valve when you pump the brakes.

 

triggz

Founding Member

May 15, 2002

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37

Gadsden, AL

Apr 1, 2007

#16

• Apr 1, 2007

• #16

You always should pump the pedal 20 or so times after a pad change to run the caliper pistons out so that the pads are placed correctly against the rotors. There is slack between the pads/rotor and the lack of resistance to build line pressure causes the pedal to go to the floor...

If you still have a sloppy pedal, I would take off the wheel and inspect for slack.

 

Mike97gt

it doe snot

Founding Member

Jan 26, 1999

10,633

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89

the people's republic of massachusetts

Apr 1, 2007

#17

• Apr 1, 2007

• #17

did you replace the rear brake pads or the front ones.. If you compressed the rear calipers wrong you may run into issues like this.