Brake Problems

Mikee_Mike

New Member
Apr 25, 2015
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I bought a 2001 Mustang GT that was sitting for over a year, then it sat in my driveway for almost another year. I finally put it on the road and about a week or so ago the front passenger side caliper got stuck. So I changed it and bled it. After that the brakes went to the floor. I've bled every caliper numerous times in correct order assuming it was air in the lines. I ended up getting a little peddle back after many bleeds, but it was still very low and squishy. Then my driver side caliper started to stick, so I changed that too and bled all the lines again. Still had very little peddle. The next day after a 15min drive I smelt brakes. The driver side was very hot, the passenger side was kinda hot. Thought maybe I got a bad remanufactured caliper or possibly a internally damaged hose line. Actually I was quite certain it was the brake hose because what are the odds I got two bad calipers.. So I got two new brake hoses, put it on. Pumped it a few times and drivers side caliper got stuck again. I opened the bleeder and expected it to release, but it didn't unstick without me banging on it. Then I thought it must be a bad caliper. I took it off and went to exchange it at autozone for another one. I ended up taking longer than I expected picking it up and I likely let the Master cylinder go dry. I immediately filled the master, put on the new driver side caliper and started bleeding all the calipers. Still have no peddle. While I was bleeding, I wanted to check the passenger side, being that it was also kinda hot the day the driver side got stuck. I jacked it up and tried to spin the wheel, that one was very sticky too. I checked the pins, C clamped the piston in and slapped it back on. I also put on a new brake hose while I was there and prayed that was the problem. Wheel spun but after applying the brakes, it gets kinda stuck. I know the pads make some contact with the rotor, but it seems to me like way too much friction. I can turn the rotor by hand, but it's hard. So now I got no peddle and at least 1 front caliper that seem to be sticking (I'll check the drivers side tomorrow to see if that one still sticks) the way things have gone, I'm assuming it will stick just like before. What else could the problem be? I don't have the money to bring it to a shop and I'm considering selling the car. It's driving me nuts.
 
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I bought a 2001 Mustang GT that was sitting for over a year, then it sat in my driveway for almost another year. I finally put it on the road and about a week or so ago the front passenger side caliper got stuck. So I changed it and bled it. After that the brakes went to the floor. I've bled every caliper numerous times in correct order assuming it was air in the lines. I ended up getting a little peddle back after many bleeds, but it was still very low and squishy. Then my driver side caliper started to stick, so I changed that too and bled all the lines again. Still had very little peddle. The next day after a 15min drive I smelt brakes. The driver side was very hot, the passenger side was kinda hot. Thought maybe I got a bad remanufactured caliper or possibly a internally damaged hose line. Actually I was quite certain it was the brake hose because what are the odds I got two bad calipers.. So I got two new brake hoses, put it on. Pumped it a few times and drivers side caliper got stuck again. I opened the bleeder and expected it to release, but it didn't unstick without me banging on it. Then I thought it must be a bad caliper. I took it off and went to exchange it at autozone for another one. I ended up taking longer than I expected picking it up and I likely let the Master cylinder go dry. I immediately filled the master, put on the new driver side caliper and started bleeding all the calipers. Still have no peddle. While I was bleeding, I wanted to check the passenger side, being that it was also kinda hot the day the driver side got stuck. I jacked it up and tried to spin the wheel, that one was very sticky too. I checked the pins, C clamped the piston in and slapped it back on. I also put on a new brake hose while I was there and prayed that was the problem. Wheel spun but after applying the brakes, it gets kinda stuck. I know the pads make some contact with the rotor, but it seems to me like way too much friction. I can turn the rotor by hand, but it's hard. So now I got no peddle and at least 1 front caliper that seem to be sticking (I'll check the drivers side tomorrow to see if that one still sticks) the way things have gone, I'm assuming it will stick just like before. What else could the problem be? I don't have the money to bring it to a shop and I'm considering selling the car. It's driving me nuts.
I've since bled the master cylinder and got my brake peddle back, it's not low or squishy anymore. I would have done it earlier but the bleeder nipple was very tight and slightly stripped. I had to put vice grips on it. My caliper is still getting stuck though. I'll probably push the piston back in and hope it no longer gets stuck. Not sure what else I can do.
 
I would imagine you got air in to the system again, if the Master-cylinder had air in it, do you think using the car while there is air in the Cylinder could have gotten further down the braking system? Try replacing the brake fluid with colored break fluid, lets you know when the new brake fluid is completely into the brake system, while watching for bubbles. If you still have access to the person helping you, you could get automatic break bleeders. How much is at hand. Start upgrading some parts while you are into the system, braided brake lines is a worthy upgrade.

Is there any way a caliper can be bench tested before thrown on a car or for sale? Do you have a Chilton or Haynes manual?
 
I would imagine you got air in to the system again, if the Master-cylinder had air in it, do you think using the car while there is air in the Cylinder could have gotten further down the braking system? Try replacing the brake fluid with colored break fluid, lets you know when the new brake fluid is completely into the brake system, while watching for bubbles. If you still have access to the person helping you, you could get automatic break bleeders. How much is at hand. Start upgrading some parts while you are into the system, braided brake lines is a worthy upgrade.

Is there any way a caliper can be bench tested before thrown on a car or for sale? Do you have a Chilton or Haynes manual?
I imagine it's possible air is further down the system, but everyone tells me that would only make the peddle squishy and not cause the calipers to stick. I'm returning the caliper today, I'm hoping that does the trick. I would think a caliper could be bench tested, but autozone won't do it. And I probably don't have the equipment to do it myself. I don't have a chilton or manual. I might have to hit a library read up if I don't figure this out soon.
 
I took the passenger caliper back and got another one, also bought a new rotor because I noticed a slight crack in my old one. That one seems to be working fine now. Seems the 2 previous calipers they gave me were bad and the 3rd one is good. I jacked up the driver side and that ones sticking again. I have to assume Its another bad caliper (2nd one from autozone). I'm gonna bring it back and hopefully I get a good caliper and that solves my problem.
 
So far the front passenger side caliper doesn't stick. The 3rd remanufactured caliper seems to be working perfectly. I wish I could say the same for the drivers side.. I got another one (3rd from autozone) and it's stuck. I pushed the pistons back in, put it back on and pressed the brake once and it locks up. I got new calipers, brake hoses, roters and pads on both sides. Only the passenger side is finally working. It's just hard to believe so many of the remanufactured calipers were bad, but the last one I put on the passenger side works. When the driver side caliper sticks, opening the bleed should allow the piston to go back in, but it doesn't. It sticks like someone's holding the brake. I'm lost. All I can think to do is try another caliper.
 
It's confirmed, I am indeed one of the unluckiest people alive. The 4th caliper I got for driver side works! 3rd for the passenger side, 4th for the driver side.
I will never buy calipers from Autozone again. Idk who remanufactures these calipers, but I imagine it being a sweatshop. Maybe autozone just puts the returns back on the shelf because they are lazy and/or incompetent. Idk..¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
I'm having issues with my brakes sticking. I believe the rear but have to check. Back story, I did cobra brake upgrade (95 spindles,AutoZone front calipers,Callahan rotors and pads,mms balljoint spacers,braided lines,rear calipers from amazon,Callahan rotors and pads,mms brackets,New soft and hardlines,Moser axles ,New axle bearings and seals. I drove it to work for a week with a mushy pedal,then on my days off bled the cra p out of it, still mushy.bled again and again.still mushy.checked for leaks and non.The master was new about two and a half years ago,it sat in my garage till I put all partstogether.thick head I am I finally replaced master and bled. Brakes will now put you threw the windshield,but sometimes they stick,hitting pedal gets them unstuck.I'm stumped anyone have this problem?any solutions?
 
Took it out today and as long as I brAke hard it doesn't stick,when I lightly brake it sometimes sticks,then I hit pedal and back it goes? I put some heat in them so I'm letting them cool before I pull her in garage to check rear calipers then front.
 
having all 4 calipers go bad at once or close would be highly unlikely but possible. do your due diligence and check the glide pins on them for sticking if not lube them up with some high temp grease anyways lol but more than likely its a more central cause MC, brake booster, proportioning valve, abs pump something like that