Brakes Dont Work As Good After Brake Job

RedWings44

Member

May 19, 2012

179

5

19

Jun 20, 2012

#21

• Jun 20, 2012

• #21

That link just took me to eBay's home page (maybe because I'm on a mobile device right now). Ok. Well I was just wondering if there was a ratchet attachment to go on a drill (apart from that one). Doing it manually isn't going to cut it in the future.

 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member

Apr 23, 2008

2,387

144

114

NC State University

Jun 20, 2012

#22

• Jun 20, 2012

• #22

RedWings44 said:

That link just took me to eBay's home page (maybe because I'm on a mobile device right now). Ok. Well I was just wondering if there was a ratchet attachment to go on a drill (apart from that one). Doing it manually isn't going to cut it in the future.

Click to expand...

Really? You must be doing something wrong. When I last did my rear brakes, I was able to turn them in with a pair of channel-lock pliers in just a minute or two.

Also, the fronts do not screw in.

 

RedWings44

Member

May 19, 2012

179

5

19

Jun 20, 2012

#23

• Jun 20, 2012

• #23

Ya...like I said, I haven't dealt with the front ones yet. But there really isn't anything to do wrong. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Maybe it was because it was a brand new caliper. It was also out quite a ways (long story). But yes, it took forever

 

P

phatboy5015

Member

Feb 5, 2012

60

1

9

Jun 21, 2012

#24

• Jun 21, 2012

• #24

Mine feels squishy after new brakes unless I do this:

1. Pump brakes BEFORE ever starting the car.
2. Then crank the car and pump the brakes.

Nice and firm again!

I don't really understand the mechanics of the Hydroboost system, but if I don't pump the breaks with the car off, it never really firms up.

 

2013 Geee T

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2002

805

5

19

Oak Park, CA

Jun 21, 2012

#25

• Jun 21, 2012

• #25

I did got out and do some hard braking last night and they do feel quite a bit better. I did it about 6 times from 40-50 mph and I could smell the brakes after I was done. Would doing it again help more or will they get better with time?

sneaky98gt mentioned that it was easy to bleed the master cylinder. Whats involved in doing so?

 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter

Dec 3, 2002

3,749

37

109

LA, CA

Jun 21, 2012

#26

• Jun 21, 2012

• #26

Bleeding the master is easy, there are bleeder screws right on it. Just bleed it like its a caliper.

Phatboy5015, you have a problem with your breaking system, you shouldn't have to do that at all.

 

P

phatboy5015

Member

Feb 5, 2012

60

1

9

Jun 21, 2012

#27

• Jun 21, 2012

• #27

Rusty67 said:

Phatboy5015, you have a problem with your breaking system, you shouldn't have to do that at all.

Click to expand...

Maybe so, but they work perfectly when I do it my way. Factory NON-ABS car..

 

2013 Geee T

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2002

805

5

19

Oak Park, CA

Jul 2, 2012

#28

• Jul 2, 2012

• #28

It turns out that the rotor job wasn't good enough and the pads weren't touching the rotor all the way. So basically only half the pad was making contact so they resurfaced them and its much better. It still doesn't seem as good as they originally were so maybe the pads were made on a Monday.

 

4

40oz

Member

Jan 9, 2006

499

3

18

Minneapolis

Jul 3, 2012

#29

• Jul 3, 2012

• #29

2003 Geee T said:

...It still doesn't seem as good as they originally were so maybe the pads were made on a Monday.

Click to expand...

If they are factory replacement pads they're fine. Your rotor is thinner so it takes more pedal travel to apply the same pressure. Mine were the same way after turning the rotor. Replacing the rotor gave me back the brakes the car came with.

 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter

Dec 3, 2002

3,749

37

109

LA, CA

Jul 3, 2012

#30

• Jul 3, 2012

• #30

40oz, It should not take any additional pedal travel at all. When the rotor thins out, the pistons in the calipers will move further out and stay there to compensate for this. It is the same as the pads wear, the pistons sit futher out of the bore. Travel should not be effected by a thinner rotor or pad except for the first few times to pump the pistons back into their correct location after a brake job.